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Stabby


Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Old and Busted


Point Rank: # 787
Total Points: 833
Last Year: 135
Last 30 Days: 0
35 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Old and Busted been climbing?










Contributions


All 3278 | Routes 3 | Areas 2 | Photos 127 | Page Improvements | Comments 138 | Posts 2960 | Stars 37 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Lichen the Old County (5.10d)
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 15, 2009

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Comments: More like .10d.


Location: stephanie maltarich : a foto : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 8, 2009

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Comments: If I ever hit Powerball, one of those goes up in the backyard.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 5, 2009

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Comments: Invaders From the North (.11b) at the Falls Wall. Rim Job is near, about 30 feet to the south.


Location: Daryl Allan : Climbing : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Feb 20, 2009

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Comments: Bizarre markings. It reminds me of one of my dad's ties back in the '70's. The buzz alone is always more of a thrill than I need, having it nick your pants from under a rock.....yeeeesh.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Radiation Fear (5.11a)
By: Old and Busted When: Feb 7, 2009

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Comments: During routine maintenance today one of the anchor bolts snapped off. For the time being there is only one coldshut up top. There are ways to clean it still if you incorporate the anchors of either Heavy Duty Judy or First Dibs (You can get to the single anchor by lowering from either, or run it out on easier terrain to HDJ and have someone follow).
The good thing here is that this will spur a concerted effort to get an anchor replacement initiative going at CWC. Many are over 20 years old.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Project X Wall : Rest in Pieces (5.10b)
By: Old and Busted When: Jan 22, 2009

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Comments: I was the one who bolted this thing and did the first lead, after it had been toproped 100 times by everyone. But .10B?


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Heavy Duty Judy (5.10c)
By: Old and Busted When: Jan 12, 2009

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Comments: Yesterday Tzilla replaced the cold shuts with standard hangers. There are several other routes around here that need that. What was notable was the minimal corrosion (virtually none) on 20-year old carbon steel (painted) cold shuts and the plated bolts.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Wild America (5.12c) : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 30, 2008

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Comments: The tree in the background of this shot has grown to the point where its branches cover the route.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 10, 2008

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Comments: I didn't mean to be such a dick. Sometimes the words don't flow right. I guess my point was just fix the anchors. That rock has more history than you might think so at least do it right.

Plus, don't expect that almost every line did not get a TR run sometime through the ages prior to you guys, but who cares about that. I think setting it up for free climbs is a good thing. Cheers.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 9, 2008

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Comments: Care about what? The anchors being in a shitty spot? That's an obtuse statement. Are they yours? Refresh my memory: are they some of the anchors that have been there since before 1987, when I first climbed there? Or are they part of this new "development"?

Regardless, they might as well be in the most effective location. So, since you guys have decided to bolt that which many, many bolters before you have climbed on repeatedly and chose to pass by (back when you were in grade school, btw), it m... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Juggernaut Area : Pipe Dreams (5.10) : Photo (Copy)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 2, 2008

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Comments: ?????


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : Unknown aka The Pump and Th... (5.12b)
By: Old and Busted When: Oct 29, 2008

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Comments: Who cares? It's a funny little rock alongside the road. It had been a top rope crag for dozens and dozens of years before being bolted. If the anchor situation needs updating, then just do it. It's not like you are altering some heavily ascended, famous or epic route.


Location: Dan S. : Personal : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Oct 25, 2008

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Comments: Gnarly


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Tulum
By: Old and Busted When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: There is a nice 15' arete that overhangs around 20 degrees that is about 60 feet past the stairs in a alcove, goes at about V-4 and is fun. If you are doing a Yucatan trip, bring your shoes and chalk bag and spend a day at Tulum. The beach has larger waves than most of the resort beaches too. But beware the humidity (80%) and the temps (90-95).


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Tulum : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: Its like bouldering in a Corona ad.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Tulum : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Oct 13, 2008

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Comments: Topping out is problematic as first you need to deal with razor-sharp points and daggers up high, then up top are Iguana-filled bushes, and then you'll probably have to deal with angry security; which might be Mexican Army or National Police.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Beta Slave (5.10c) : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Sep 20, 2008

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Comments: Tom -
What I do there is get up directly under the shut using the 3 finger slot and high step left foot where her right hand is, grab the hidden edges and rock over onto that foot. It is a welded shut and takes a lot of falls. This winter I'll add some chain on the anchors and a real hanger.


Location: DFrench : Personal Photos : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Aug 24, 2008

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Comments: That's a very clever idea.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Beta Slave (5.10c) : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Jul 29, 2008

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Comments: That's not how I do it ;)
This also reminds me to change out that shut with a hanger.
Nice shot Keen


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winterfest Wall : Whole Lot of Drunk (5.11b/c)
By: Old and Busted When: Jul 18, 2008

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Comments: RW wrote:

"In the creation of a new route the climbers involved contribute many things without which the route would not exist, including gear, time, cleaning, bolting if that is required, belaying etc. These provide material support for the route but do not imply any ownership of the route. The gear we leave behind is considered abondoned property and the route, the crag, and the associated land belong to someone else. Nonetheless, there is a key element in the process of route development tha... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : ... : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Jul 11, 2008

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Comments: Lets see..
Big guy, not necessarily young, follically challenged, and on a .12C.
I have no excuses now.
Inspiration!


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Cassandra (5.13a) : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: May 23, 2008

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Comments: The chokecherries make it look like he's a couple pitches up.


Location: CA : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: May 21, 2008

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Comments: AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Industrial Disease aka Dead... (5.11c)
By: Old and Busted When: Apr 12, 2008

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Comments: I have always wondered where the alternative name that Richard Berk notes came from.
Dave Fields put the bolts in back during the initial frenzy, Tod got the first send. I remember seeing the "moonies" name in an early guide and wondering "WTF?"


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Heavy Duty Judy (5.10c) : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 30, 2008

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Comments: Falling off my own route. Must've been that outfit. Ugh.


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