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Stabby


Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Old and Busted


Point Rank: # 720
Total Points: 831
Last Year: 140
Last 30 Days: 5
34 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Old and Busted been climbing?










Contributions


All (3236) | Routes (3) | Areas (2) | Photos (127) | Comments (136) | Posts (2920) | Stars (37) | Ratings (11)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Training Grounds : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Oct 12, 2010

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Comments: Walking around the (this view) shadowed right side will put you at Scootertrash Wall.


Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Right Side : Cinderella Story (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Sep 19, 2010

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Comments: We need a ruling on whether using blocks to stand on is aid or not.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Jungle : The Cougar Whisperer (5.10b)
By: Old and Busted When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: Generally speaking, the Jungle was put together by Tod Anderson, Todd Leeson, and Chris Perkins. This route was my only contribution on this wall. As a group, we typically don't announce FA's. But this was Mike Carrington's first FA (at Devils Head at least) so I figured why not mention it. He belayed me up it for the bolt run, and really kept my daughter entertained so I gifted him the FA. Which he onsighted.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Crudely Painted Not So Funn... (V8+)
By: Old and Busted When: Jul 6, 2010

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Comments: Castlewood is a capital L-shaped canyon. Punani is up at the top of the L at the North part, down by the creek. The Berthoud Cave is up in the Inner Canyon, which is the horizontal part of the L and way South. To find Punani and this problem, you have to enter the North Entrance to the park, and park at the Lucas Homestead lot/trail and then follow that trail down to the bridge, and then follow the directions listed here.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Punani Area/North Canyon : ... : Crudely Painted Not So Funn... (V8+)
By: Old and Busted When: Jun 27, 2010

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Comments: Uh, these 2 areas are just about as far apart as you could get in this canyon. If you were at the Berthoud Cave, you would have to hike at least 30 minutes to get to where this problem is.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : ... : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: May 29, 2010

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Comments: Looks like a prison scene.....


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: Tiger Woods sure sounds a lot like the Shred of Dignity. But that's the thing about little-used boulder problems, they can be re-discovered and re-named every 10 years or so.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: Old and Busted When: Feb 2, 2010

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Comments: A few weeks back I spent an hour-plus working on yanking the spinner anchors off of the Entry Level. It was a breezy, chilly day and once the sun was just about gone it was time to admit defeat for the day and bail.
However, I later realized I left a 1/2" x 4" SS 5 piece bolt, hanger, quicklink and Fixe ring on top of the route behind a flake. It is no longer there. Tom told me some folks were climbing there a couple of days later. We have been given several anchor sets donated to us by the Anch... more >>


Location: Old and Busted : Misc. : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Oct 8, 2009

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Comments: Ha! Yes, Fester and Morticia. Only thats the Addams Family.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Old and Busted When: Sep 30, 2009

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Comments: Tod is updating his guidebook. There might be 30-40% more routes in the next edition. In the meantime, enjoy the solitude.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Falls Wall : Rim Job (5.12+)
By: Old and Busted When: Sep 18, 2009

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Comments: Why is Chris Drysdale listed on the FA list? He was totally out of the picture by then and had zero to do with this route.
Also regarding the mention of the project to the right, it is called Bones and listed here.


Location: CO : Central Park Bouldering Are...
By: Old and Busted When: Aug 31, 2009

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Comments: I wonder if this sets up a precedent we could exploit. But then Denver denies Sanctuary status and just flat out ignores the voters with the tow-away bill, so law is an arbitrary matter. I guess that makes them a regime.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Cornered Rats (5.11b)
By: Old and Busted When: Aug 22, 2009

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Comments: Monty-
Just read your comments about the anchors. The reason they end up where they do is that setting the anchors there tends to be a pretty involved process; usually with some insecure trad placements, back tension on the rope, the thrill of drilling with a wicked pendulum if you cut loose....
Unlike the route clips, we don't get much of a chance to refine the anchors before committing. Most of the time we're guessing that the anchors are in line over the objective. Then, once the an... more >>


Location: Old and Busted : Misc. : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Jun 28, 2009

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Comments: I should mention she is a Czech, so the curses hurled at me come with lots of rolling rrrr's


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Jun 26, 2009

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Comments: Note the distant rain. Haven't left there dry yet this year.
Did ya send?


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Vietnam : Bikini Girls with Machine G... (5.11a/b)
By: Old and Busted When: Jun 16, 2009

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Comments: I was going to use that name. At least it has a good home.



Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Bag of Tricks aka Flake (5.9+)
By: Old and Busted When: May 17, 2009

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Comments: Bryce, first of all all caps equals shouting.
Anyway, the key beta here is that you backstep with the left foot and thrust your left buttcheek onto the angled ramp thingy. Once you've weighted the buttcheek, you can reposition hands and feet and move on.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Cobble Wobble (5.10c)
By: Old and Busted When: Apr 18, 2009

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Comments: It's 5.10E.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Fireblack Boulder : Nothin' But Faith in Nothin... (V3)
By: Old and Busted When: Apr 18, 2009

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Comments: The FNA doesn't count without a pic. Not that I want to see it, just sayin'.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Fireblack Boulder : Tracy's Bushy Crack (V0+) : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Apr 15, 2009

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Comments: ()


Location: Old and Busted : Misc. : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Apr 15, 2009

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Comments: ()


Location: tooTALLtim : 3/2009 Castle Valley : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Apr 10, 2009

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Comments: Much more of that young man, and you're taking Physics 101 again.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Three Sisters : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: I thought the song goes "hey, the bathroom's on the right."


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Lichen the Old County (5.10d)
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 15, 2009

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Comments: More like .10d.


Location: stephanie maltarich : a foto : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 8, 2009

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Comments: If I ever hit Powerball, one of those goes up in the backyard.


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