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Stabby


Member Since: Jan 21, 2006
Last Visit: 30 mins ago
Contact Old and Busted


Point Rank: # 781
Total Points: 838
Last Year: 39
Last 30 Days: 5
36 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Old and Busted been climbing?










Contributions


All 3287 | Routes 3 | Areas 2 | Photos 128 | Page Improvements | Comments 138 | Posts 2968 | Stars 37 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 23, 2012

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Comments: I wonder when some offwidth nut spies that monstrousity in the upper left corner.


Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Feb 13, 2012

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Comments: It's a glacial erratic. The rock was scooped up elsewhere and dragged along and relocated by the glacier that carved out Devil's Head, T-Ridge, and left the huge, balanced rock down Rampart Range Road.


Location: Old and Busted : Misc. : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Feb 10, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, no one like me.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Hamburger (5.10)
By: Old and Busted When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: Scott - Garrick went through a phase of listing a lot of routes and arbitrarily putting Tom down for the the FA w/out consulting Tom first. I remember that old guide from ages ago. It would be nice for posterity if you ran through the Grocery Store listings and corrected the FAs.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Creekside Boulders : ... : Balls and Chains (V5)
By: Old and Busted When: Dec 20, 2011

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Comments: Part of the charm about CWC bouldering is that a big majority of what can be hopped on is not recorded. Tom and I have found unclimbed stuff every time we've gone on a sidehill bushwhack boulder hunt; although the last time we did that was 3 years ago. General key to whether someone has been there before you is if you're brushing lichens and pebbles off of the obvious holds, you've got an FA; if the holds are only dusty probably not.
And there's still a good hundred epic prob... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Grocery Store Walls : Banana Peel (5.8)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 15, 2011

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Comments: There used to be a guide back in the '80s by a guy named Alan Mosiman that was exclusively the Grocery Store area. That is where this rating came from. They were all Colo. Mtn. Club climbers, spent time there in the '60s and '70s. But that last move has always been 10-ish. The best way to get to the anchors on the Tower is to do a handstand on the rim and then kip over the gap to the tower.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Bouldering problems : Creekside Boulders : ... : Balls and Chains (V5)
By: Old and Busted When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: That narrows it to a couple hundred meters of the canyon. Are you talking east of South Canyon point?


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Uplift Mofo Party Plan (5.11b)
By: Old and Busted When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Picture?


Location: Alex Whitman : Luxury Liner : Photo
By: Old and Busted When: Sep 4, 2011

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Comments: Its only Luxury Liner if you led it with hexes ;)


Location: CO : Dumont vicinity : ? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab a...
By: Old and Busted When: Aug 27, 2011

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Comments: Is this that prominent slab on the South side of I-70 right at a big bend?


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Stratego (5.12a)
By: Old and Busted When: Aug 16, 2011

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Comments: Totally agree with you on that, Rich. I think this particular route has a creepy flake that flexes down below the crux.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Stratego (5.12a)
By: Old and Busted When: Aug 16, 2011

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Comments: The Park has a zero-tolerance policy on bolting at the moment. No committees, no permits, nada. The new administration won't even bother returning my queries. The previous one under Jen Marten at least would hear us out. But it took pointing out that life-safety was at stake just to get extremely limited permission to replace anchors on 2 of the oldest walls; and even then Tod probably spent about 20 hours navigating the forms.
We might try again this Winter, but the effort seems great... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Neanderthal Wall : Stratego (5.12a)
By: Old and Busted When: Aug 16, 2011

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Comments: Captured for posterity,
mlloyd, 8/15/11:

"I rapped in and checked out this route the other day to find a beautiful climb albeit very dirty. I cleaned it up with a brush and a nut tool, removing lots of loose rock and sand, revealing good rock below. I was interested in leading this climb for the first time (it has only been TR'ed). I have climbed in CWC for years and like the adventury feel of sparse pro and lack of trusty bolts but found no way to climb this route without soloing it. I chose t... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: Old and Busted When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Check with the guards at the gate.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP
By: Old and Busted When: Jul 14, 2011

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Comments: Message for the guy climbing at the Dungeon/Argenine Dary Party on Wednesday, 7/13/11; here's where you can contact me.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon
By: Old and Busted When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: This is a good place for Summer workouts (most of the routes are hard) for Douglas and Arapahoe County residents when you don't have a long day for the real destinations. The actual best approach is by first getting to 9 Lives Arete on the East side of the creek, then trending southeast uphill, making sure you aim for each distant boulder you can see. By going from boulder to boulder, it will lead you the Westernmost point of the Du... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Lichen the Old County (5.10d)
By: Old and Busted When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: This route has the weirdest optical illusion. From the ground, it looks like a 85* slab, but it actually overhangs about 3 feet in 40.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon : Where The Wild Things Are (5.11d)
By: Old and Busted When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: Just revisited this yesterday. Once you negotiate the starting ramp, the business starts with about 20 feet of almost exclusive one and two-finger pockets, a bit of a bulge and no feet. Really hard for .11d IMO. The detracting factor is that each pocket is a nasty little crystal-tooth finger biter. Comfortizing the pockets will make it a really enjoyable route w/out making it any easier.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Training Grounds : Passing the Baton (5.7)
By: Old and Busted When: Jun 28, 2011

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Comments: It is 11 bolts, don't z-clip at the overlap.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Vulture Walls : Regulation 9 aka Left of Sc... (5.10b)
By: Old and Busted When: Jun 9, 2011

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Comments: It's consensus .11c, did you get on it?
The DCCC has been referring to this as "Regulation 9".


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : The Dungeon
By: Old and Busted When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments:
Dungeon.
Dungeon.

Here, but it already has several trolls living down in there. And I have a family of Tanzmanians guarding our meth lab, too.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Junk in the Trunk (5.9)
By: Old and Busted When: May 30, 2011

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Comments: Great job on the route description, really compelling. And informative too. Why did you bother?


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Entry Level (5.8)
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 20, 2011

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Comments: This route had its gear updated with new hangers and better anchors during the Winter of 2009/10 (permitted anchor replacement for the whole wall). In addition, I was just there a couple weeks ago; and the first bolt is as it has always been. I think Wayne has to be talking about one of the routes at Morning Sun Wall, as they do get their hangers stolen.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 10, 2011

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Comments: South Platte Ranger District- considering that most of the crags in the closure area are adjacent to Jackson Creek Road and camping areas, wouldn't it make sense to close that road off to motorized vehicles, especially the bikes? I'm sure that BRAAAPPPP BRRAAAAPPP BRRRRAAAPPP from sunrise to sunset every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday doesn't help the peregrines.


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : C-Section : Peckerwood (5.10d)
By: Old and Busted When: Mar 8, 2011

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Comments: Tod Anderson thinks the FA was Dave Fortner, b/c he named everything after his crank; but for some reason I thought it was Dave Fields and Ernie Moskovitz.


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