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Member Since: Aug 2, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 16,208
Total Points: 15
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has EJM been climbing?










Contributions


All 60 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts | Stars 21 | Ratings 24
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Ouroboros (5.12d)
By: EJM When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: This is a really great outing, albeit easier, I think it's equal in quality to its neighbor, Snake Watching. There's a good deal of friable rock on all of these routes, so there's no getting around that reality, just keep it in mind when and how you tug on some of the more suspect holds. Thankfully, the crux sections all seemed fairly solid, other areas require a slightly more delicate approach. All in all, good quality and super fun.

V3/4 opening lip encounter to fun 5.11 crimps gets you to a ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Trail of Tears (5.12d)
By: EJM When: Mar 12, 2016

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Comments: Located on the west face of fin 3, just right of the beautiful dihedral of V3.

Approximately 140 feet in length. With rope stretch, an 80 meter rope will just get you to the ground if your belayer steps into the starting alcove. TIE A KNOT.

13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #3 Camalot w a runner placed between bolts 1&2 is wise, if you were to slip or botch clipping the 2nd bolt, you'd certainly hit the ground from 30+ feet.

Once established on the face, after the 2nd bolt, this rou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Stonehenge : The Fiend (5.13c)
By: EJM When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: As of 8/1/15, all of the old hardware (circa 1987) has been removed and replaced with stainless steel 1/2" sleeve bolts, this includes the rusted piton that protected the crux of the dihedral and the fixed stoppers that once served as the lowering anchor.

Much thanks to Jason Haas and the BCC for donating the hardware and tools, Steve Annecone of the FHRC for helping to expedite the permitting process, and OSMP for their quick approval.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Pin Dome : Big Sky Corner (5.12c/d)
By: EJM When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Somewhat obscure, this really is an excellent pitch. The upper, business portion of the route stays on you right to the chains. A little flexibility would go a long ways.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Beethoven's Fifth (5.12d PG13)
By: EJM When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: One of the nicest lines in BoCan. Plugging the crux piece makes this thing ultra-solid for the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : The Purpose (5.12)
By: EJM When: Jul 4, 2014

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Comments: Pretty sand bagged at 12b.
Burly crux.
Fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b)
By: EJM When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Legit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Mordred (5.13d)
By: EJM When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: ...what Tank said. Fantastic little route. BoCan 4 starz.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : The Badger Traverse (5.13a)
By: EJM When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: Not at all similar but certainly easier than DLZ on Upper Coney although I think we may have navigated the ending a little differently than the way described above. A fun little tour nonetheless. Felt like 12b.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Joy Ride (5.12b)
By: EJM When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: Really enjoy this route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Der Letzte Zug (5.12c)
By: EJM When: Mar 8, 2010

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Comments: I think this is one of the finest sport routes in Boulder Canyon, definitely my favorite for the grade...not trivial.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Public Solitude (5.13)
By: EJM When: Nov 29, 2009

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Comments: Good route, legit 13b.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Squeeze Play (5.13b)
By: EJM When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: Pretty fun route regardless of the "squeeze" factor. Doesn't really feel at all contrived when climbing on it.
I think it's kind of soft at 13b...maybe I was just feeling good in spite of the hangover.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Old Yellar (5.13a)
By: EJM When: Aug 3, 2009

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Comments: ...yeah, pretty sure I'm not going to waste my time with that one.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Old Yellar (5.13a)
By: EJM When: Aug 2, 2009

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Comments: Got on this rig today, I think it gets my vote for best 13a on the Front Range. Awesome line. Nice and stout.

Didn't notice any broken or missing grips..it's all there.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Old Yellar 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CO : Lyons : ... : Old Yellar Dome

Ouroboros 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CO : Flatirons : ... : Overhang Rock

Trail of Tears 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag

Beethoven's Fifth 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Stuffed Wolf 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

CO : Golden : ... : High Profile Wall

Mordred 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

CO : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab

Verve 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Bell Buttress - Main Crag

The Adultress 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Boulder : ... : Ridge 1

Joy Ride 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island

Der Letzte Zug 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island

Red Limit 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CO : Boulder : ... : Dream Dome

Wild Blue Yonder 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CO : Boulder : ... : Ridge 1

Big Sky Corner 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Pin Dome

Act of God 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

CO : Golden : ... : Flood Wall

The Fornicator 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

CO : Boulder : ... : Ridge 1

Public Solitude 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

CO : Golden : ... : Primo Wall

Squeeze Play 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

CO : Golden : ... : Primo Wall

The Badger Traverse 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

CO : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island

Big Sky Arete 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Pin Dome

The Purpose 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Mine All Mine 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Pin Dome

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Mordred

5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

CO : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab

Verve

5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Bell Buttress - Main Crag

Stuffed Wolf

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

CO : Golden : ... : High Profile Wall

Public Solitude

5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

CO : Golden : ... : Primo Wall

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