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Member Since: Jun 5, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact ejesse

ejesse
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Point Rank: # 8,704
Total Points: 47
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 7
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ejesse been climbing?










Contributions


All 73 | Routes | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 7 | Stars 41 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: FS: La Sportiva Solutions, Brand New in Box - size...

FS: La Sportiva Solutions, Brand New in Box - size 39

Apr 24, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: FS: La Sportiva Solutions, Brand New in Box - size...

FS: La Sportiva Solutions, Brand New in Box - size 39

Apr 24, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: FS: BD C4  0.5-3 ($210 shipped to CONUS only)

FS: BD C4 0.5-3 ($210 shipped to CONUS only)

Forums : ... :

Dec 14, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Verdun Gorge, France

Verdun Gorge, France

The People of Mountain Proj... : ejesse : A Couple Favorites

Jun 5, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Penon de Ifalch, Costa Blanca, Spain

Penon de Ifalch, Costa Blanca, Spain

The People of Mountain Proj... : ejesse : A Couple Favorites

Jun 5, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Military Wall, Red River Gorge, Kentucky

Military Wall, Red River Gorge, Kentucky

The People of Mountain Proj... : ejesse : A Couple Favorites

Jun 5, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: Ettrigen, Germany

Ettrigen, Germany

The People of Mountain Proj... : ejesse : A Couple Favorites

Jun 5, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Eroica (5.12b PG13)
By: ejesse When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Colin - PM'd with longer rambling.

Above the old bolt pin anchor I think 1 goes before the scoop in the corner and the other about 12 feet below the other pin and bolt at the crux, above the scoop.

Thanks!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Hearts and Arrows (5.12b)
By: ejesse When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: The most secure of the full value climbs up the middle of the Diamond. It also climbs the fastest of the center routes with solid jams the whole way except the 2 bolt traverse. Once you get there, the last 4 pitches are mind blowing!

For the rotten corner P4, has anyone done/tried the finger crack just to the left? Its on solid rock and looked like 5.11. It disappears right at the slab which might make the last couple moves spicy. Of note, the rotten corners a lot better than it looks, but... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Arrowhead : Arrowplane (5.11a)
By: ejesse When: Jul 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: P3 if you go straight up the twin splitters to the curving roofs and over, then right through the next towards the obvious, right-facing corner you are deposited at a small roof at the base of said obvious corner. The corner has a fixed nut to protect a fun but difficult entry into the dihedral which provides great climbing. It's a good way to add another 10+ pitch as opposed to going left then right over paths of least resistance.

P4. The 11a option protects really well, it... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Crack of Delight (5.7)
By: ejesse When: Jul 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is a fun alternate approach to Broadway as opposed to the death chimney, I mean North Chimney. It's two fun pitches with a bit of simul on the first. The rock is bomber, and it's relatively safe from rockfall.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Eroica (5.12b PG13)
By: ejesse When: Jul 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Amazing route, super sustained climbing the entire way, and all on solid rock. It's pitch after pitch of classic climbing with the crux being my least favorite pitch (it's a bit wandery and could use a bit of traffic), so don't expect D1's fabulous finishing crux.

CONDITION ALERT: P4 as described here, P3 in the Fixed Pin guide at 11d (which is part of P3 and P4 here) is missing its fixed pins. I am guessing the kn... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall
By: ejesse When: Jul 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Anyone climb the Invisible Wall free? I'd be excited to hear about the 11+ R pitch, specifically where that R is, and any other beta from someone who has climbed it.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Papa's Got a Brand New Crag (5.11)
By: ejesse When: Jun 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The bolt is loose. If whoever climbs it next brings a wrench, it would be a huge favor. I did my best hand tightening, but that doesn't really count.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Monkey in the Forest (5.11a)
By: ejesse When: Oct 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There are two bolted anchors at the top of the formation. You can use a single rope to rap right to the base of Center Route or Wunsch's Dihedral.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : Kor's Korner (5.12a/b)
By: ejesse When: Oct 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Gear: nothing bigger than purple BD #0.5s at the top. In the business, it's grey, yellow, and green Aliens. I would recommend two of each so you are not wanting. You could place a blue, but I doubt it could hold a fall as the rock is soft. Prepare to be flummoxed by the ever daunting decision when climbing pin scars - do you want gear or handholds. Medium nuts would probably work brilliantly if you can hangout long enough to place them.

Also, you can prevent rope drag by back cleaning t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0)
By: ejesse When: Aug 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: BETA: the traverse goes free again at around V5/V6. Thanks, Josh Wharton, for brushing it Saturday morning.

The crux pitch is very finger-size dependent as I could just squeeze my pinky finger in at a couple points but nothing else. The pitch is stout for those with anything other than small hands - finger diet? The route as a whole has a lot of rock still exfoliating. I took a couple rips off the crux pitch as footholds disintegrated or the edge of the crack ripped off in my hand. It probably ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Fields of Dreams Growing Wi... (5.11+ R)
By: ejesse When: Aug 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a stellar route, is in a beautiful setting on gorgeous rock, and is well-protected. The below link gives a very detailed account of attempts at both approaches, probably the crux, for anyone attempting the route. It also provides pictures of the pitches and my take on them (probably less useful). Thanks, ASCA, for rebolting this classic and the vision of the first ascensionists.
thrillseekersanonymous.com/201...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
By: ejesse When: Mar 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Mortiz, did you ever find any info about the bolted route on the arete?


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Looking Glass North CarolinaEastern and Southern StatesejesseAug 27, 2014
re: Ohio - The New, The Red, SenecaEastern and Southern StatesejesseAug 27, 2014
RRG Labor Day Partner Aug 30 - 1 SepEastern and Southern StatesejesseAug 19, 2014
re: Red, New, etc partner from now till end of SeptEastern and Southern StatesejesseAug 19, 2014
CSprings Afternoon Climbing Partner This WeekColorado PartnersejesseJun 8, 2012
re: Climbing partner near BoulderColorado PartnersejesseJun 5, 2012
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