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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Funkdemental (5.11b)
By: Edward Jenner When: Nov 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Secret hold? Shit, I didn't find any secret hold! I think I went the easy way and still thought it was 11a. Man, now I realize why I have trouble with those 5.9s.
This discussion makes me realize how people see and climb routes so differently. Quite interesting.
I think most of the nearby routes pretty much suck, but then they get 2-3 stars and then this one gets one from some folks simply because it offers the opportunity to go gardening (or is that too far right?).
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Winter Warmer (5.10d)
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's now crystal clear! Climb what you want, call it Winter Warmer and have fun.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Parallel Journey (5.9+)
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should add that my P1 is P2 in the photo and the P1 in the photo is the 5.5 dihedral, just in case anyone was confused.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: Edward Jenner When: Sep 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: David, with all due respect, saying you MUST NOT FALL does not really help anybody assess a climb unless it has no pro. Otherwise what is the point of placing protection? Do you mean that you would not want to fall at any point on this climb? If so did you not trust any of your placements?
It sound like you are suggesting someone who attempt this should either be very confident that they will not fall except perhaps on the protected crux(s) or that they should be very good at placing pro.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Quarterback (5.10b)
By: Edward Jenner When: Sep 8, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The roof (although not the crux) might be a bit scary for the budding .10 leader without an extra piece of gear. The bolt above the roof is quite a ways up there and the first clipping opportunity is from an overhanging stance with reasonably large handholds. I wouldn't want to fall trying to make that clip.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Christmas Tree (5.10b/c)
By: Edward Jenner When: Sep 8, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 7th bolt stretch shouldn't put anyone off doing this climb. Although I'm 6ft I had to make a move to clip it, but it is quite secure - good feet, reasonable hands. If you can lead up to the ledge, you should have no problem.
I also think that the 7th bolt is well placed. If it were closer to the ledge it would be useless. The anchors, on the other hand, are a different story. It looks like the rock was really well cleaned on the lower portion, but there is a rotten band with some large... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Relampago (5.10c)
By: Edward Jenner When: Sep 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was OK. I'd recommend the route if your're in the area, looking for a mid-10 and haven't done it, but I wouldn't do it again.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11c/d)
By: Edward Jenner When: Sep 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Lots of 10+ and 11- crux's with rests in between. I think the first little roof is harder than the large one.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : The Dune (5.10a)
By: Edward Jenner When: Aug 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was just wondering why the tree at the base needed cutting down? Was this simply to provide the people who climb in groups of 10 or so room to camp under this climb all day or because some people got their rope caught on it. If it's the latter, the bad news is that the flake above still snags them anyway.
I really hope there was a very good reason for it because I really liked that tree. It had a lot of character! No that is not sarcasm.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Edward Jenner When: Aug 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Comparing to another climb near by; it is definitely harder than Hot Stuff.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Edward Jenner When: Jun 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The picture of Tonya Riggs below serves as an excellent example of why you need to either use quite long runners or preferably double ropes on this route.Of course this applies to almost any Eldo route because of the angles of the natural features. I'm not surprised you got tired, Tonya, it looks like you were already experiencing significant rope drag half way through P4.
Personally I don't understand why so may people continue to use single ropes in Eldo when the routes and gear placements a... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Politically Incorrect (5.10c)
By: Edward Jenner When: May 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The grade is definitely not stiff if you climb the 'natural' line which goes slightly right at the last bolt, in which case the crux is relatively short. I guess the anchors were put over to the left a bit so the rope would not hang over the sharp bulge when lowering or top-roping.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Funkdemental (5.11b)
By: Edward Jenner When: May 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route. Overhanging jugs, deadpoint crux and pockets really mix things up.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Winter Warmer (5.10d)
By: Edward Jenner When: May 1, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am somewhat confused about the routes (and variations) in this alcove. I think I know which way the original Winter Warmer goes, but Richard talks about an inverted V-slot - strange name for a layback crack. So I guess Winter Warmer goes up the line on the right (as shown in the photos below), then left under the roof to finish at the bolts on the left, where as the Variation goes straight up at the roof to finish at the bolts on the right (which seems the more logical line to me). So what ... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Jelly Bellies (5.10c)
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 21, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've only TR'd this line, but it seemed to me that staying on the face to the left of the crack is both the more direct line and more enjoyable. I remember the holds being sharp though, so maybe a duel with the cacti is less fingertip-shredding.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ummm.. I think I had a brain fart. Scrap the last comment about the chains.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Independence Wall
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The trail sucks, and there is still a lot of loose rock on the routes. I don't know how to resolve the trail issue, but I suggest that anyone climbing here not be afraid of doing a bit of route cleaning (bring appropriate tools). Once the loose stuff is gone, I suspect these may be quite decent routes, or at least viable alternatives for those who get suckered into going to the Anarchy Wall but can't even TR 12s.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Independence Wall : Right To Be Wrong (5.11c)
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually I thought the routes here were not too bad, and this may be the best one, but then I can't climb the stuff at Anarchy Wall. This was probably the least loose of the lot. Although I fell on the last crux, the most scary part was definitely crossing the scree slope at the bottom, I'm glad I had a belay for that!Personally I can't see how this gets an 11c, but maybe all the cleaning has made it easier.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchors Chris refers to now have chains. Thanks to whomever put those on, they were definitely needed.
Yesterday I went to climb Lunchmoney and tried the two 10s - Hours for Dollars and Get Rich. I was a bit apprehensive at first, thinking I should not bother with them since they only had one star in the guide. However, I would agree with the above comments. These are decent routes, and with the addition of Lunchmoney this may become a more popular area. It looks like there may be a fe... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Lunchmoney (5.9+)
By: Edward Jenner When: Oct 7, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, after all the above, I hardly need to add my comments. Obviously this is a fine addition to Clear Creek, thanks to Mr Mabe for putting in the work on this one. One of the best of its grade in the canyon! Of course this may mean that this area starts to see a bit more traffic. I bet there are a few more good lines on this rock that just need a bit of vision and a lot of cleaning.
As a side note, the gear is really well placed on this route, great boling job.
Definitely 3 stars for Clea... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : West Overhang (5.7)
By: Edward Jenner When: Sep 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The roof is certainly fun, worth doing if other lines are busy, and 5.7 if done correctly. I went up there yesterday without the guide book, didn't see the fixed pin and foolishly clawed my way up the left most crack (don't ask me why, it just somehow looked easier at the time). Should have looked at CB.com, the pictures below demonstrate the correct line and use of gear.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Edward Jenner When: Aug 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't believe (but I am glad) that the 45 min hike discourages more traffic on this route. Absolutely fantastic with no poor pitches or sections (pitch 1 even being a pretty nice warm-up). That off-width slot, although short, just looks ... well let's say uninviting. Fortunately nothing 'forces' you into it and it's quite straightforward to climb past it without any off-width technique at all. Of course if you find off-widths fun - go at it! For my part I just clipped the pin and climbed ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Edward Jenner When: Aug 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: George makes an important point about the single rap, which I'd like to re-iterate. Unless there is someone to help feed your rope, you will not be able to pull it down. There is just too much rope stretch and friction over the edge.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Lawsuit (5.10b)
By: Edward Jenner When: Jul 19, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite fun. The 3rd clip looks reachy, but really isn't that bad. However, I climbed this route with someone who was....well, lets just say vertically challenged and they had some difficulty.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab
By: Edward Jenner When: May 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Remember, this is private property. Although no-one sould be shooting close to the road, there are certainly safe places to shoot on this land. I often hear shooting, but have never experienced problems at this crag.
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