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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle Wall : Butcher of Baghdad (5.11d)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route's original anchor was around the corner halfway up the wall right before the Energy Czar ledge (halfway up Instant Karma Direct). Because this anchor is in bad shape and in need of replacement, it is vetoed for the Energy Czar anchor for 'Butcher', and 'Karma' routes.
Keep your anchor short(two opposing quickdraws...with lockers for all you skeptics) and the rope drag won't be as bad.
When you rappel the rope doesn't move on the rock so it shouldn't tear up the rope when you are cl... more >>
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Two Pitch Wall : Eat a Peach (5.7)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jan 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA - Wes Love, David Huntley
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : TKO (5.12a)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jan 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA - Doug Reed
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Practice Wall : Another Brick in the Wall (5.10d)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jan 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA - Doug Reed
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Practice Wall : Playground (5.9+)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jan 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA - Rodney Lanier, Dede Geissinger
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Nuke the Whales Wall : Loyal Order of The Toad (5.7)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jan 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA- Chris Little, Sean Cobourn, Scott Cobourn (93)
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle (backside) : Nuclear Cottage Cheese (5.9)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jan 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA - Wes Love, Rodney Lanier
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : Beer Wolf (5.9+)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jan 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA - Wes Love, Rodney Lanier
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Two Pitch Wall : Double Naught Spy (5.9 R)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Dec 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scariest lead I've ever experienced... great top rope though. Get on this and let's clean up some of the choss!!!!
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Car Wall : Burn Signals (5.10)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Aug 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At one point I would have been all for making it a mixed route but I now feel like it is nice having a sport route for those that don't climb trad. I would leave it as is... but that is just my opinion. One can choose to do it mixed but if the bolts are removed, then you are leaving out the sport climbers.
It is your route and your call but when one bolt was removed from the retro-bolted MAIN EVENT on WRESTLING WALL the masses were and are still upset even though it takes gear right next to th... more >>
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle Wall : Energy Czar (5.10d)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Energy Czar used to be a mostly traditional route with two fixed pins. In fact some of the best gear options are near the bolts that were added illegally without permission (retro-bolted). Still a great sport route. Some choose to climb this route mixed with a couple of pieces scattered in between bolts.
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle Wall : Electra (5.10c)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the old Thomas Kelley Guide this route was shown as going all the way to the TOP! Add some spicy traditional climbing to this already pumpy sport route by linking the second pitch of this route. Either climb to the CATERPILLAR top out or to the GOLDEN SHOWER top out.
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Aug 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've held off from commenting for long enough.
Tom- it was a 'cluster f' (as you put it) long before I started contributing because you couldn't sort routes without being the area creator. When I first started climbing at Crowders it was hard to find my way around because I didn't know the mountain. Without pictures/topos I was left to guess as to where routes were. Even the guidebooks weren't always helpful. I took it upon myself to make it easier for others, especially beginners. We both kno... more >>
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Car Wall : Flat Tire (5.10)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Aug 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unfortunatly, I don't have any old timers numbers to call and question. This website, old climbing guides, word of mouth are the only means for me to find out information on theses routes that have been long in need of updating. I was under the impression that it was still a TOP ROPE route. I am also under the impression that this website is a means to 'dig a little deeper'.
I have been updating these routes as I 'fire them off' and all along the way I feel like you've been quick to delete my c... more >>
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Car Wall : Flat Tire (5.10)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Aug 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this route on August 9th 2012 and re-dubbed it Fix-A-Flat. Well protected but super pumpy and technical.
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : Master Beta (5.10c)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the 4th bolt there are two variations.
1) traverse right and up(right of the bolts) for the easier variation.
2) climb direct (left of the bolt line) to the anchors for the harder variation.
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Car Wall : Diesel (5.11-)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Aug 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There you go buddy. I changed the description to fit to your criteria. You should try it, it is an awesome but super hard route.
We can agree to disagree. Just like I disagree that DRIVE ON(5.8) on this wall is PG13. It takes great gear through out the route.
Also, FLAT TIRE(5.10) is a TOP ROPE variation and it is included in a GUIDEBOOK! I plan to head point Diesel and see if it will take gear so I can send it on lead. In my opinion this route is most definitely worthy of being posted on the... more >>
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Middle Finger Wall : The Balcony (5.5)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Locate the cave/hole/balcony in the center and halfway up Middle Finger Wall.
Start under this feature on a small slab pillar that leads to the balcony. Climb cliff left out of the balcony and continue climbing up just left of the balcony to arrive on an obivious ledge with a bolted anchor.
One long pitch makes for some fun climbing but make sure to use extended runners. The rock quality is not inspiring but the climbing is physically easy.
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle Wall : Temporary Tradition (5.11)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jul 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would love to climb this route but the first(and only) rusted bolt that protects what seems to be the crux of the route needs to be replaced.
Any chance of this happening?
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle Wall : Fourplay (5.4)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jul 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two variations to this route's start.
1)(5.4)- Climb the ledge system that leads to the small alcove and continue up physically easy climbing. The rock quality is less than desirable with decent protection for the trained eye.
2)Direct Start (5.7)- Hard moves right off the ground with great protection adds spice to a rather mellow route after this section. Smooth sailing once established past this low crux. Fight your mental demons as you learn to weight poor quality rock.
Set up a top rope ... more >>
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Red Wall : Master Beta (5.10c)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 07-01-2012 - Big Ben from Columbia, S.C. broke two holds off this route. One is not so obivious. The second one is the huge 'thank goodness' jug above the third bolt right after the undercling. I'm eager to see how much harder this section will be. The hold was bigger than a cantaloupe and you can see the orange/reddish spot below the fourth bolt.
Just a heads up!
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : David's Castle Wall : What Else Is There To Do? (5.7+)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two different starts before the 5.6 slab.
1) The crack on the left is suppose to be 5.7 and looked harder than the direct on the right. I didn't have the topo on me when I choosing my start so I picked what looked easier to me. I finally climbed this alt. start and it felt harder than 5.7 but I also don't climb a lot of finger cracks. Protecting the start was probably the hardest part of this small feature.
2) The crack on the right(direct) is 5.8 CRACK climbing! Great hand jams through this s... more >>
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Nuke the Whales Wall
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took a group of beginners out on 07-01-2012 and set up Top Ropes on several of the routes. There are several horizontals and boulders you can make natural anchors on and the rope drag was not terrible. I do however recommend ropes on the thicker side and fix your anchors high! Great shaded area if Davids Castle Backside and The Fortress/Gumbies Roof is being occupied in the morning.
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Rising Sun Wall : Tom Waits For No One (5.10)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I still feel that this route is awfully close to Mr. Science especially with natural protection next to the first AND second bolt. The stuff left of this bolt line is not the line of most protection. If you look at the Kelley topo the crack above the second bolt is on Ask Mr. Science. Either way, it's a fun route but I feel it is smack dab on top of Ask Mr. Science. I plan on leading Ask Mr. Science and I'll update my opinion then. Happy Climbing!
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Location: NC : Crowders Mountain : Main Climbing Areas : Two Pitch Wall : Double Naught Spy (5.9 R)
By: Eduardo Ramirez When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going to be a mental lead... but otherwise a great exposed, long endurance top rope route!
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