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Ice climbin' dude.


Member Since: Apr 13, 2006
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact eDixon


Point Rank: # 92
Total Points: 4,229
Last Year: 93
Last 30 Days: 0
32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1387 | Routes 258 | Areas 53 | Photos 159 | Page Improvments | Comments 59 | Posts 12 | Stars 755 | Ratings 91
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : The Pope's Nose : Chalice Wall (5.9 A2)
By: eDixon When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: We went to check this route out earlier this summer and this is what we found:

Pitch 1 scramble up to a right-facing, right-angling wide corner. Climb this to its top, and exit out right and belay on a good ledge. This is the same first pitch as for Central Buttress. (~150)

Pitch 2 continue almost straight up past a variety of cracks, aiming for the main corner system that splits the face. Belay at a good ledge with a slung chockstone. (~200)

Pitch 3 continue past more jumbled cracks ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : The Pope's Nose : Central Buttress (5.10 A0+) : ... : Photo
By: eDixon When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: The section off the top of the pedestal with the fixed pin and bolt goes free (labeled here as A0+). The higher section (labeled free, no bolts) does have bolts. The first of which has been referred to as, "the worst bolt in the world" (This has been replaced). I don't think this section has gone free (~A1).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 1st Meat Wall : Beef Soda (5.10+)
By: eDixon When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: Good route, albeit short. Good hands at the start quickly go to #.75 & #1's before going back to hands at the top. (2-3) of each #.75-#2 Camalots should do it.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Black In Action (5.10+)
By: eDixon When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Nice work on the route, guys, and a great birthday present for BG indeed. Good style up a cool formation. Can't wait to try the route!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : South Mineral Creek : Direct North Face (WI4)
By: eDixon When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Lower steep pitch is still not in as of 11/13/2012. It is starting to form up but needs some time. The upper pitches appear to be in good shape.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : South Mineral Creek : Campground Couloir (WI3-4)
By: eDixon When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Climbed the main and left couloirs 11/13. Road to the campground is no problem with 4x4. Another snow storm might change this. Main couloir is thin but good WI3 - no rock gear is needed. The left couloir is really thin in spots, but the climbing is pretty moderate - some rock gear was useful on this one, but the ice is growing nicely.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Apes of Wrath (5.10)
By: eDixon When: Oct 26, 2012

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Comments: Thanks to the individual that replaced the second bolt. It had been spinning for some time.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Bedrock : Barney's Crack (5.12a)
By: eDixon When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: I've heard a story as to why the bolts look so bad, but I haven't heard it first hand, so enough said. All I know for sure is that the bolts need to be replaced. This is a stellar climb that needs new hardware. If anyone has the time and money, this is a worthy project. Thanks.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Extra Cool (5.10d)
By: eDixon When: Oct 11, 2012

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Comments: Pitch 1 - Climb crack and face past a fixed pin (can't really see from ground) to a roof. Pull the roof on finger locks (felt hard for 5.10) and step left to a junky crack. Climb this crack past a small tree to a ledge. Climb 15' higher to a second ledge and belay from a good-sized tree.

Pitch 2 - Move up/left and follow a low-angle finger crack up a dirty groove to a tree at the top. The climbing isn't hard, but the crack is full of dirt/grass and you have to "garden-out" placements for gear. ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Triple Tree Area (Far Left) : End of the Road (5.7)
By: eDixon When: Oct 5, 2012

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Comments: Now it ends at a two-bolt anchor.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Triple Tree Area (Far Left) : Hook & Drill (5.11b)
By: eDixon When: Oct 5, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this today for the first time in a long time. The bolts still seem solid enough but those hangers could definitely be upgraded. Good route that should see more traffic.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Triple Tree Area (Far Left) : Toprope (5.11)
By: eDixon When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: Anyone know anything about this one? Would I be stepping on any toes to finish bolting? The line is kinda fun!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Triple Tree Area (Far Left) : Hook & Drill (5.11b)
By: eDixon When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: Been a long time since I've been on this thing, but I do remember some old hardware. I'm all for replacing the bolts. East A has been a great local crag to many of us for many years and now has its share of aging hardware. It is a costly and time consuming process to make upgrades. Many thanks!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Bedrock : The Squeeze (5.8)
By: eDixon When: Sep 22, 2012

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Comments: This thing climbs much better than it looks. A couple suspect blocks, but good fun. The anchor could use a new bolt.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Bedrock : The Bear (5.8+)
By: eDixon When: Sep 22, 2012

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Comments: The tree at the top is hurting. This could really use a new anchor.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Yosemite Crack Zone (Left) : Yosemite Crack (5.8)
By: eDixon When: Sep 22, 2012

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Comments: There is now a bolted anchor. No need to TR off the tree anymore.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Bedrock : Gorilla Crack (5.10a)
By: eDixon When: Sep 22, 2012

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Comments: The Gorilla now has two new bolts for an anchor.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Bedrock : Gorilla Crack (5.10a)
By: eDixon When: Sep 14, 2012

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Comments: Despite all the beta provided above, I thought I might add that this is a really good route. Yes, it has some bat shit and loose rock, but it is a good wide-crack adventure. Wrestle up a wide, left-facing corner to a roof, pull through into a wide splitter, pass the guano block then work left and continue with varied crack climbing to the top. Bring a standard East A rack plus a #4 and a few #5s, no #6 is needed. A few runners are nice too. (5.10+, ~100')


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The World According to Gupp... (5.10)
By: eDixon When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: The topo/description above seem pretty accurate, exception being the 3 star rating?

P1 is fun - a short section of fingers and a cool face-traverse under a roof. P2 says to step left, then back right, etc. We just climbed straight up the crack/groove (~5.8) aiming for the short 5.10 fingers section shown as the start of P3. This section is short and over almost as soon as you get into it (~5.9). P4 has some big stacked blocks that might(?) be solid. On P5, the traverse under the roof to gain t... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Great White Wall (5.10)
By: eDixon When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: The beta above is pretty accurate, as is the topo in the guide. There is a large cairn at the base, so no drama in finding the start (it is also directly across from the Balanced Rock Overlook. Relatively straight-forward route finding and comfortable belays. Hard 5.10 crux with lots of moderate climbing. Still some looseness but not too bad. Shade until 1-2pm (late April). Took 8 pitches - linked 2 & 3, 4 & 5, 6 & 7, 12 & 13. Brought (2) green Alien - #3 Camalot, (1) black - blue Alien, ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9)
By: eDixon When: Apr 19, 2012

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Comments: This is a really fun route that deserves more traffic. The descent was no issue. This updated topo provides the details.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Black Sun (5.10b)
By: eDixon When: Feb 9, 2012

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Comments: Thought this was a fun route. Never really hard...yet never really easy...and kinda physical throughout. Brought gear to a #5 Camalot (new), nothing bigger is needed. Easy to rap KI with a single 70m rope from nice ASCA bolts. Thanks!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: eDixon When: Feb 2, 2012

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Comments: P2 (~100', 5.10) Mostly thuggish cups/fists with a couple wider spots and some hands deep in there too. Seemed to eat up #2/3 Camalots and a #4 is nice to have. Ends at 2 bolts & 2 drilled angles.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : The Ribbon (WI4)
By: eDixon When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: P1 bolts are on the left (semi-hanging), P2 on the right (in the cave), P3 on the right (15' below an old pin anchor).


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : The Slaves (5.11a)
By: eDixon When: Sep 21, 2011

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Comments: One of the better crack climbs around Durango. No move is that hard, just kinda thuggish overall. Does get a little sandy with rain, but it is East A.


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