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Bouldering at Smith Rock, OR


Member Since: May 20, 2008
Last Visit: Oct 14, 2013
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Point Rank: # 2,262
Total Points: 245
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ebb been climbing?










Contributions


All 95 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 24 | Posts 2 | Stars 29 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (4) Gold Wall : Dirty Jugs (5.9)
By: Ebb When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: A couple of very awkward spots on the lower portion, which are harder than they would appear at first glance given the size of the ledges that you have to work with in these areas. However, the holds aren't right where you'd want them and/or bulges get in your way. The "jugs" come out once you reach the top portion, and fortunately aren't too dirty these days. This portion is a bit steep, so the jugs are nice to have to hang on to! I'd give the top 3 stars, but the bottom 1 star (so averages... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South East Corner (5.7)
By: Ebb When: Jul 31, 2010

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Comments: Quite an adventure! This is a very popular route (we climbed on a Friday and were the 2nd of 5 parties to climb all or part of this route). The "company" was helpful though for our first time up this route, as it provided for some valuable "live beta" from the "veterans."

I've read in some guide books that the published ratings for Beacon Rock are a bit "stiff" and I would agree here. At least for a personal first ascent, consider adding a notch to any of the published ratings (i.e. the firs... more >>


Location: OR : Mt Hood : Bulo Point
By: Ebb When: Jul 15, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the GPS coordinates. Very helpful.

Once the road turns to dirt, it is just about 1 mile exactly to the parking/access trail. If you dont see any cars, look off to your left as you approach. You should be able to see some rocks through the trees and you should notice some clearings on both sides of the road for parking (it's not much though - maybe 3 cars on the right and 1 or 2 on the left).

While I saw several small sedans parked here, I wouldn't think that would be the ideal ap... more >>


Location: OR : Mt Hood : Bulo Point : DaKind (5.9-)
By: Ebb When: Jul 15, 2010

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Comments: With no stick clip or crash pad available, my climbing partner elected to climb the face up and to the right of the alcove and then traverse back to the left to clip to the bolt above the crux. He estimated this "alternate start" at about 5.8. It protected well with trad gear. This approach then allows one to come back down from that point and attempt the crux of the true start with the first bolt clipped, or to continue on to the top to set a top rope.

Safety rating may be more like PG13 wi... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Rope de Dope Block : Shamu (5.9)
By: Ebb When: Jun 13, 2010

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Comments: 5.9 in Watts' 2010 edition Smith Rock book.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Rope de Dope Block : How Low Can You Go? (5.7)
By: Ebb When: Jun 13, 2010

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Comments: Now rated 5.7 in the 2010 edition of Watts' Smith Rock book.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Rope de Dope Block : North Slab Crack (5.5 R)
By: Ebb When: Jun 3, 2010

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Comments: This is a great spot to string up the kiddos on a top rope. My son (5) and daughter (3) both made it about half way up the route by starting just up and left of the true (crack) start. They could have likely finished the route if their anxiety hadn't gotten the best of them!


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (9) New School Wall : No Nuts (5.9)
By: Ebb When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: Caution! Watch your rope length. The first time we climbed this, what we thought was a 60m rope didn't quite make it all the way to the ground when lowering on belay (but it was only a matter of a few feet). The belayer needed to take a couple steps up the start of the route to get the climber to the ground. More recently however, (climbing with a brand new 60m rope) we had at least 10 - 15 feet of rope left with both of us on the ground.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : The Cave Area : Big Horn (5.8+ V0-)
By: Ebb When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: There are actually a pair of bolts over the commonly done 5.9 route (about top center of photo). One can scramble up the back to set a TR (low 5th class).


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower Two Area : Chopper Mantel (V0)
By: Ebb When: May 3, 2010

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Comments: There are many better problems on Woodson than this one unless: a) you really want to work on some short mantel problems, b) you're a "person who will climb anything," or c) you're like me and are looking for a very low-angle slab for your kids to "climb" on, but couldn't stand to just "walk on" to the slab.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower Two Area : Vomitorium (5.8+)
By: Ebb When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: Follow up to my previous comment...

I just got ahold of Kennedy & Hubbard's 1999 book "San Diego County Climbing Guide" (out of print). Vomitorium is listed as a 5.9+ there, but Hubbard's Topos (circa '98, available on-line) show it as a 5.7. Odd. Maybe due to different lines, as I suggested previously?


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Step Child (5.10a)
By: Ebb When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: My climbing partner used a #2 cam between the 3rd and 4th bolts.


Location: OR : Mt Hood : French's Dome : Straw Man (5.7)
By: Ebb When: Aug 14, 2008

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Comments: If I'm not mistaken, the lowest newly-reinforced belay platform lines up with Alpha Centauri. The belay platform for Straw Man would be the next one up the hill.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Spy : East Ridge (5.3 R)
By: Ebb When: Jul 23, 2008

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Comments: There's a real nice photo up above of "the jump." Definitely unnerving the first time you try it, but it looks much worse (from the jumper's vantage point) than it is! :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Spy : ... : Photo
By: Ebb When: Jul 23, 2008

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Comments: Great shot of "the jump." It was very unnerving standing on that little ledge and looking down and out at that sloped "landing" spot. However, the rock there is real nice and sticky and my landing was much softer on my feet than I anticipated. I focused on trying to jump straight ahead from a squat (with both feet at the same time) and grab the right edge of the landing rock with my right hand. Just be careful to not catch any of your gear on the ledge behind you as you jump!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Staender Ridge : Adit Rock : Unknown 5.5 (5.5)
By: Ebb When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: I found this route on another climbing site. That site has this route named "Nice Guys Finish Last," and gives it an overall rating of 5.8 (probably more accurate given the difficult crux move at the top).


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Staender Ridge : Adit Rock : Unknown 5.5 (5.5)
By: Ebb When: Jun 25, 2008

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Comments: Agree. Bottom 4/5's or so is fun (but short). The crux move at the boulder is awkward and frustrating. Seems much more difficult than 5.5 (crux move only)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Staender Ridge : Adit Rock : Lollypop League (5.4)
By: Ebb When: Jun 25, 2008

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Comments: 5.5 in Watts' book (circa '92).

Very fun for the grade regardless. A great beginner's sport lead.

Also, some PM shade (not on this route per se, but on some of the others in the area, or while resting) is nice on hot spring/summer days


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Dancer (5.7) : Photo
By: Ebb When: Jun 23, 2008

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Comments: This photo rocks! Of course, that's me on the rock! :)


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Brogan Spire : ... : Photo
By: Ebb When: Jun 23, 2008

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Comments: Don't forget the other challenging part of route-finding here: just getting here! Where the "trail" swings under Brogan Spire (N of Mini Half Dome) in the lower left-hand corner of the picture, we scrambed through a 5.0-ish chimney/slab combo to avoid having to walk all the way down and around the lower rocks. Then head across the desert and around the big buttress to find the ground-level "cave" and the "alcove" start.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Marsupials : Brogan Spire : ... : Photo
By: Ebb When: Jun 23, 2008

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Comments: Also note that there are some newer 5.10 - 5.11 sport routes on the overhanging wall to the left of Matt.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone
By: Ebb When: Jun 5, 2008

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Comments: Does anyone have any beta and/or topos for Ozone? I read that there may be a guide in the works, possibly available this summer?


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower Two Area : Vomitorium (5.8+)
By: Ebb When: May 20, 2008

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Comments: You can scramble up from behind to set a top rope (but my brother did it, so I can't give the details; he may have needed a bit of a "boost" from someone if I remember correctly - I'm posting this 6 mo's after we climbed it).

Didn't feel like a 5.8 to me, but we were climbing a bit off-center (both to the right and to the left), so maybe the dead-center line is more of a 5.8?

Appears to be a 5.7 on Chris Hubbard's Topos (circa '98), but it's unnamed there, so can't be sure...


Location: VA : Manchester Wall
By: Ebb When: May 20, 2008

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Comments: Just about everything you need to know about Manchester Wall:

mgreeby.home.mindspring.com/Cl...

Also: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manchest...


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Smith Rock in August.Pacific NorthwestEbbJun 23, 2008
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