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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Photo
By: E thatcher When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: How are those quick clips looking? worth going up with a wrench to grab them and repurpose them on another climb?! those babies are expensive! no need to waste 'em
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Location: NH : Rumney
By: E thatcher When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I easily pulled a commonly used hold off of Restless Native today. This, coupled with the major rock fall on Jolt, has me thinking that the rain followed by cold earlier this week was cause for a serious freeze thaw cycle that has loosened stuff up at Rumney. Be careful out there! whether you're at Wiamea, the Hinterlands, or any other crag. Rock could come down anytime, especially after a strong freeze thaw cycle!
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : The Flume
By: E thatcher When: Feb 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would think twice about mixed climbing here, Ryan. This is a very very popular tourist attraction that brings tourists right along side of the rock walls. I don't think they are coming here to see scratches from errant picks and poons. There's plenty of crappy rock elsewhere to scrap up that tourists don't walk by thousands of time each summer. The ice here is rad. We should keep it to that and be stoked
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Promises (5.12d)
By: E thatcher When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lee, you're a model of sensibility! if the climbing community had more people with your level of psych and understanding, and lack of ego, we would have far fewer "girl talk" like fiascos. Props, and thanks, to all of you who've put up awesome routes in Rumney.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Newfound Lake : Unkown 2 (Pikeline?) (WI3+) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Jan 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is indeed the climb.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Newfound Lake
By: E thatcher When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Possible for an admin to put these routes in order? L- R it's unknown, Red Headwall, bloodline, Unknown 2, Duofold, Pikeline...
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Newfound Lake : Blood line (WI3)
By: E thatcher When: Jan 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just never get enough of this climb. There are many variations that feel completely different and probably span a full grad from 3- to 4- or even 4. I think one could climb it three times in a row findings different lines each time. This is all dependent on how "in" it is, of course.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Newfound Lake : Pikeline (WI5- PG13)
By: E thatcher When: Dec 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ramp above the initial pillar can be hollow and pretty hard to protect at times. Since you can't see it to well from the ground, I usually bring some rock gear on this one, which takes the bite out of it a bit...
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Location: NH : Hall's Ledge : The Golden Wall : Dirty Thieving Loran (5.8) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Nov 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We be pinchin', and I hope you Like pinchin' too....hmm. doesn't work as well. But I'm not seeing any jams...
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Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Lower Davis : 538 Boulder
By: E thatcher When: Nov 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now I know what it looks like when a political junkie develops a bouldering area. Pretty fascinating statistician though.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hippos on Parade (5.9)
By: E thatcher When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Downgrade? I could be mistaken, but I feel as though I've always seen this at .8+... If you follow the chalk you're being sandbagged...
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Location: NH : Profile Cliff : Natural High (5.7)
By: E thatcher When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is one less a piton after today. Certainly spicier in that section, but nothing that's out of character given the protection on the rest of the climb.
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Location: NH : Profile Cliff : Tempered, Not (5.9- PG13)
By: E thatcher When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: as of the date of this posting I left a cam in a horizontal just below the anchor on this route. It's not fixed, just forgotten. If it finds its way back to me I would gladly buy the fine lady/ gentleman a six pack or 22 of something good, and talk to my people in the Karma bureau...
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : High Wire (5.11c)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool climb, very well protected, but I didn't find it any harder than Connecticut cracks...
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Jaws (5.11b)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best climb so far in Acadia for me. Sustained and totally full value. I would agree that the crux is in the finger size, but it's no one trick pony, and I got solid and fun jams of all sizes including a fist on this thing. Wicked good, and very well protected, so go for it.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Scaramouche Arete (5.11d)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: While this climb mostly is on the face, there were certainly a number of key moves I did on the arete. Was i doing it right? I dunno, but it felt at the grade. If you like tenuous, smedge fests where you feel like you could fall at any moment, and your feet shouldn't be sticking where they are, then this is a good route to hop on. I would argue that it's pretty reasonably protected, despite the fact that it can be a little heady to lead. Didn't bring any cams and belayed off of the Return to for... more >>
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Fingers on a Seascape (5.10c)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second the link up with COnnecticut cracks. Two different styles of climbing, but at a similar grade. It's almost a full 30m to the top, so tie knots in your rope if you're going to TR it from the ground...
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Fear of Flying (5.10)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is actually independent, starting to the right of the Story of O. It scrambles up some ledges with surprisingly fun jamming to a roof that is skirted to the left with a couple of thin face moves to establish in an awesome finger crack. A couple of reachy moves between locks gets you into a solid splitter that tops out at the first pitch belay of Story of O. You can stop here and make it two pitches, or continue up the gorgeous crack you mentioned and then left to the rappel anchors. J... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Good Earth (5.12c)
By: E thatcher When: Jul 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Mike,
I think it's easy to assume that Rumney brings in money in those various ways, but when one stops to think about it, it probably isn't the case. First and foremost, the NH parks system has nothing to do with Rumney, so they're out of the picture. Sure, you see climbers milling around Plymouth in the morning looking for coffee or lunch food, but I struggle to think that this is a significant and reliable part of any of the business' downtown. Rumney, hardly makes any money. So there'... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : The Spider's Web : TR (5.10a/b)
By: E thatcher When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Those folks must not have climbed on the loose... :)
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mesresha (project) (5.12+)
By: E thatcher When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After seeing this route in person today, I feel compelled to politely add my voice to the crowd suggesting this route be removed. If not in its entirety then at least one of the lines of bolts. As stated before, its proximity detracts from Sesame Street, its on rotten rock, and what has not been previously mention is that it's directly behind a tree. Having worked climbs in this grade range, I know I personally would not get on it simply because of the factor of falling into the tree, regardless... more >>
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Once Upon A Climb (5.11c)
By: E thatcher When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Certainly a chance I could be mistaken... does the climb you did match the description I wrote of the first pitch? There's a number of close pitches in that area...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Apr 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "To each his own" = what I was getting at Neoh. It irks me when folks make blanket statements about some one else's choices when it is not of their concern...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Driving cars with others on the road is dumb. In which situation do YOU have more control over the outcome? People so often trivialize the risks we take in every day life and make special examples out of calculated risks others choose to make with their own life.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Kinsman Notch : The Beast (WI4+)
By: E thatcher When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're absolutely right Ted! Thanks for the catch, and I'm sorry I misdirected you guys into a far bushwhack! I'll fix it now.
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