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First ascent of the metal arches in my school library...Holderness School


Member Since: Jul 28, 2008
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 604
Total Points: 1,042
Last Year: 129
Last 30 Days: 0
80 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has E thatcher been climbing?










Contributions


All 638 | Routes 13 | Areas 1 | Photos 145 | Page Improvements | Comments 172 | Posts 170 | Stars 122 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge (5.6)
By: E thatcher When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: see here :mountainproject.com/v/madame-d...


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : Pendulum Route (5.11c/d PG13) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: unfortunatly I think your compliment is misplaced, John! We all tried the corner way and couldn't figure it out! so we went direct, including the use of a bomber nylon hold in the crack under the roof. Still required a huck followed by a hand heal match though!


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : Pendulum Route (5.11c/d PG13)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: a couple of thoughts after adventuring up this climb. The climbing is generally fun well protected and consistent at 5.10. no super classic leads, and can be dirty, but an enjoyable adventure. There's 1, maybe 2 gear anchors and the rest are fixed, 4 of them being solid 2 bolt belays. Can bail pretty much anywhere on it.

P1. We went up the bolt ladder and stepped left and back into a groove with some fun crack climbing in the back, redirected tree belay for the anchor.

p2. the one real money ... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: on the left edge of the rock buttress by his head. The anchor is about 15' up a slab from here. I dropped down to this vantage point to take the pic.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Kiddy Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: YOu know your European when...


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: Belay beta. Over the years I've discovered a couple of pieces of beta regarding belay locations that make this route much more fun, at least for me. Most of them put the belayer farther from the climber at the crux, so perhaps not the best for those whose limit is closer to 5.8

From the 2 bolt belay climb through the 4th class ledges leading up to the triangle roof. Pull the roof and shortly after (5') step right onto a small foot ledge and build a bomber anchor in the crack that arches above y... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: This trail goes no where. The Moby Grape trail leaves from one of those paved picnic areas along the side. The Whitney G Trail leaves farther down the trail, on a slight downhill grade. Theres a large downed tree trunk parallel to the bike path with a small cairn.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : The Line (5.9)
By: E thatcher When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: fun, solid line. We did it in two as well, and with a bit of runout on easy terrain on the second pitch, the rope drag wasn't bad at all...if you face climb frequently and are comfortable to that kind of exposure, then I would suggest this route is no harder than 5.8.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : Repentance (WI5 M4-5)
By: E thatcher When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: So that others don't make the same mistake as us, the preferred second pitch belay is higher then you might suspect. The first fixed anchor looks like tat with a bunch of small ledges. Go another 20 feet or so and there will be a roughly 2'x4' ledge with another fixed anchor (4 pins tied off with thick orange static cord as of 1/14). Second ledge would be much more comfortable and more protected from falling ice.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Rumney Ice Climbs : Apocalypse Wall : Parallel Gully (WI3)
By: E thatcher When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: I think the beta for this route is to chimney. There are a number of spots where you can get very comfortable rests by leaning on the left wall. Rest your calfs, place the pro there. Solid grade 2 with this technique in my opinion.


Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Kinsman Notch
By: E thatcher When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Most rappel anchors were replaced at the beginning of this season by the MMG crew with retired rope and beefy quick links. Enjoy.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Tissue Tiger (5.12b)
By: E thatcher When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: I found the no hands rest as well. A solid knee bar that not only allowed me to go no hands, but got me halfway through the crux without even having to pull. Felt rather soft with this beta, but very fun!


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...
By: E thatcher When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: Found rope at A&D today. PM me and name it to claim it.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: E thatcher When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Hey Soon, I have to say that start to techno is some of my favorite climbing on the cliff. Being one of the people who installed the latest ladder, I can assure you its purpose is not specifically to skip a section of climbing that some find to be tricky. It's so that you can get on the many other climbs shared by that start while others warm up on, or figure out the beta on that tricky start...sorry if you are aware of all this and were simply being sarcastic. Much is lost in the medium of the... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: E thatcher When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Soon, I would assume the NFS position would be that it is stashed equipment and therefore abandoned property after 14 days, much like fixed draws.

Your point about non-Wiamea climbers is valid, to me it would be to easy for them to discount the ladders purpose if they've never experienced the cluster that results from 6 climbs worth of climbers trying to get on 1 shared start. In my mind, this is an issue to be resolved by those who climb at this cliff, and understand it's purpose.

At the mo... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: E thatcher When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Hey Soon. The last time an actual vote was held was either in 2007 or 2008 at an RCA meeting at the Rock Barn. The result was the ladder would stay. More recently, it's been in conversations with people who climb at Wiamea, throughout the summer and fall. While this is not scientific polling, it's pretty easy to understand where the community stands if you're there on any given weekend, let alone many months of weekends.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: This fixed instillation does nothing but promote laziness and dangerous climbing practices. For what? to lessen crowding( one more climber sleeping is one less climber climbing). This offends my personal climbing ethics. Somebody please call M.G. to have it removed.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea
By: E thatcher When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Just to be clear, the last time the RCA addressed the ladder issue was at a large meeting 5 or 6 years ago now...


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Cote d'Azure (5.13b)
By: E thatcher When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: For A while I was thinking this was a step up from other .13b's I had done. The boulder problem at the start is just HARD, with a couple of moves you could easily fall off of. After getting on it today in crisp to almost too cold of conditions, the boulder problem felt significantly easier because of one friction dependent hold. I could still see it getting the b/ c grade, but not as convinced. Moral of the story, crisp temps can help a lot on this one!


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Lions and Tigers and Bears (5.11b)
By: E thatcher When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: Both finishes are fixed in their entirety with permadraws.


Location: NH : Band M (CLOSED)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: Ben, are you aware the cliff is closed by the land owners? Unless something has changed, your threatening the potential reopening by not heeding the current closure. Something to consider...


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Sweet Polly Purebred (5.10c)
By: E thatcher When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Hey Nick,
sounds like you've had a rad tour of Rumney's classics recently. right on. The way you describe doing the crux on SPP indeed sounds hard. I think with some refinement through that crux you'd find it more appropriate at the grade. Similarly, there is an in obvious way to do the final upper section that makes it casual. I'll spare the inter webs my beta spray, but if you want an idea of another way to get through that crux drop me a PM. If you hang out at main cliff long enough I'm su... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b) : Photo
By: E thatcher When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: Ha, this draw is now on my rear view mirror. The thing seriously sketched me out. The sides are sharp and the gate looks like a piece of kielbasa that was left on the grill to long. No clue how that happened to it! What's scary it that this is the victory whip draw!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Photo
By: E thatcher When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: How are those quick clips looking? worth going up with a wrench to grab them and repurpose them on another climb?! those babies are expensive! no need to waste 'em


Location: NH : Rumney
By: E thatcher When: May 17, 2013

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Comments: I easily pulled a commonly used hold off of Restless Native today. This, coupled with the major rock fall on Jolt, has me thinking that the rain followed by cold earlier this week was cause for a serious freeze thaw cycle that has loosened stuff up at Rumney. Be careful out there! whether you're at Wiamea, the Hinterlands, or any other crag. Rock could come down anytime, especially after a strong freeze thaw cycle!


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