Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: Dusty When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best single pitch lines I have ever done!
As far as safety goes: I think it is mostly a safe bolt up. It can definitely feel a bit spicy throwing the dyno, but I feel like you could flub it and take the fall free from harm as long as your belayer was attentive. The third bolt was fine for me but a shorter climber might want to have a draw prehung on that one (the second bolt is quite a ways below you at this point). The rest of the bolts seemed fine.
Do this climb. Commi... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Crazy Fingers (5.12a/b PG13)
By: Dusty When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb definitely deserves an anchor. Using the Parallels' anchor is a total drag, literally, when you have to clean. Your rope gets all sorts of chewed up. The three climbs here are definitely popular enough to warrant two anchors.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Wendego (5.12a R)
By: Dusty When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wendego is excellent. Super desperate. I can't fathom climbing it barefoot. Skip is badass.
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Old Aid Wall
By: Dusty When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are a lot of climbs on this wall now, at least 8-10. Does anybody have any information about these climbs?
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace
By: Dusty When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know anything about the climb immediately to the left Sporting Green? I climbed this the other day and was curious about the name, grade, FA, etc.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Celestial Gate (5.12-)
By: Dusty When: Aug 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: (sigh)...
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Celestial Gate (5.12-)
By: Dusty When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From my experience, Jeff, it's actually easier to lead this climb than to follow it. I've only followed it, however.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: Dusty When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is phenomenal. Very enduro. As stated in the other comments, the moves themselves might not warrant a 5.12 grade, but when you stack that many 11+ moves on top of each other with no rests at 14,000 feet, you're in for a fight. I'm not so sure I'd send a 5.11 climber up Ariana, but if you can climb 5.12 cracks and your alpine endurance is high, go for this one!
|
Location: Michael Schneiter : Photos : Photo
By: Dusty When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm sure that's exactly what you were thinking when your "ropegun" was flailing and complaining about the 10 feet of 5.9 offwidth.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Photo
By: Dusty When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somebody needs to wake that bum up!
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: Dusty When: Jul 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 70m rope, the first two pitches link quite nicely.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : The Adventures of B-Dog (5.12a)
By: Dusty When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of today, just one upward driven knife-blade about half way through the roof. The roof took two RPs; a smaller, not-so-good one before the pin and a bigger, bomber one after the pin. This thing felt hard for 12a. To me, it felt much harder than Monkey on a String (12b). It is a great climb, however, and a very intense lead.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery
By: Dusty When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're headed up to the Monastery, please take a garbage bag with you and pick up some trash from the parking area after you're done climbing. It's a shame that people have so little respect that they can trash such a beautiful area, but with just a little extra effort, we climbers can keep the area pristine.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Psychatomic (5.12d)
By: Dusty When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you left your draws on Psychatomic through the 08/09 winter, my friend Ken has pulled them and replaced them with his own. If you would like your manky draws back, send me a message through mp.com.
|
Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Deer Creek Crag : The Highwayman (5.13d) : Photo
By: Dusty When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: RAR! Awesome!
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Buttonrock : River Wall II : Le Diamant E'ternal (5.13b/c)
By: Dusty When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. This thing is relentless after the third bolt. Does it escape left at the top? The face directly above the final bolt looked even more featureless than the rest of the route. Maybe a throw up right to a crimp jug? Maybe I just need to have another look, it was a bit wet up at the top today.
Dusty
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Rainbow Wall (5.13a)
By: Dusty When: Feb 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The runout to the anchors is a bit spicy nowadays knowing that there's an enema waiting to happen should you fall. That tree was tiny in those old pictures of Horan.
Hank wasn't lying, this pitch is "bitchin"!!!
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : Natural Born Driller (5.11c)
By: Dusty When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd definitely recommend this route. It has some pumpy steep climbing on good smooth stone, to a cruxy move around the corner, to some techy slab moves on pebbles. A bit of everything, what more could you ask for?
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Barndoor Layback (V3+)
By: Dusty When: Feb 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It has been started from a sit. Another fun Rotary problem. Not sure on the name or grade.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : The Evictor (5.12c R)
By: Dusty When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Alex Honnold got the first true onsight of this route last weekend. Same goes for the three routes to the left.
Edit: I think this route gets the R rating for the 5.10 run-out at the bottom. If you have the energy to stop and place, the rest of the climb can be sewn up.
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Rapid Fire (5.12d)
By: Dusty When: Nov 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: From my understanding, the climb starts with a right hand on the arete where Monstrosity starts. You then climb up and left to the first bolt. From this point on, if you follow the bolts and crimps, you shouldn't feel any desire to reach way over to Monstrosity. These two lines are close, but they are entirely independent lines (aside from the first hold). I found them to be the best two climbs in the area, so worth the few extra bolts. Enjoy.
Edit: I did the direct start the other day and... more >>
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: Dusty When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spectacular route. Great movement, good gear, perfect location, and a desperate mantle to finish it up.
|
Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Dusty When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: With all the confusion, can someone please verify the date that the tickets go on sale. I'm assuming he meant the 19th?
|
Location: CO : Ticket Information for Kor'...
By: Dusty When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought Tickets weren't supposed to go on sale until 10:00. I was all ready with my credit card at 9:30 and the show was already sold out. Super duper lameness.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : George's Tree (5.9)
By: Dusty When: Jul 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed the whole route in 3 pitches today with a 70. I'll go out on a limb and suggest 10a for this route. Some spots were very insecure, but it did protect well. Each pitch seemed to have a move which I would rate 10-. My fiance didn't think it was so hard. Maybe we were off route, maybe I'm just a weenie.
|
RSS Feed
