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just teasin' the sharks...


Member Since: Apr 28, 2008
Last Visit: Sep 25, 2013
Contact Dusty


Point Rank: # 2,103
Total Points: 260
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
46 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dusty been climbing?










Contributions


All 552 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 34 | Page Improvments | Comments 50 | Posts 297 | Stars 119 | Ratings 48
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Grand Ol' Opry (5.14c)
By: Dusty When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: And Jon Cardwell.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Dusty When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: An efficient way to climb the Casual Route with a 70 meter rope is to simul the first three pitch (the rope will go tight as the leader begins the traverse and the leader will get to the base of the dihedral just before the second gets to the 5.9 finger crack). You can then link the dihedral pitches to get to YWBL. Finish with the crux pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Never Say Never (V10)
By: Dusty When: Apr 22, 2011

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Comments: Taken from the frontrangebouldering link:

"The first move was different than any move I had ever done. I would dyno off the ground to an upside down gaston for the left hand and dyno my left foot to a tiny foot hold as thin as a nickel, all in one move. After about a month of working the first move I was sticking it enough to begin linking it with the upper moves and maybe a week later did the problem. It is a great feeling doing something you have put so much effort into, especially a first as... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Dusty When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: Awesome.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Dusty When: Dec 14, 2010

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Comments: I found me!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Dusty When: Oct 13, 2010

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Comments: Awesome!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : El Camino Real (5.12c)
By: Dusty When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: This is a sport pitch. Once you step into the layback, all you need are draws and maybe a yellow TCU right before the anchor. There are 3 bolts and maybe 5(?) fixed stoppers.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: Dusty When: Aug 13, 2010

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Comments: The climbing on this route felt more burly and sustained than other routes I've done on the Diamond. Phenomenal crack climbing. We were fine with doubles to a #2 Camalot and a single #3 (probably didn't need the #3). Finish on the Forrest Finish headwall pitches for a full-value day.


Location: AK : Photo
By: Dusty When: Apr 3, 2010

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Comments: Awesome!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Surf's Up (5.13a)
By: Dusty When: Mar 15, 2010

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Comments: Hey, Blake, either I need your beta for the upper crux or you need my beta for the lower crux! That upper crux feels desperate, especially after the lower one.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Rocket Man (5.11c)
By: Dusty When: Mar 7, 2010

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Comments: Yikes, be careful clipping the third. The bottom is excellent, the ledge is a bummer, and the top is just ok.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace
By: Dusty When: Jan 29, 2010

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Comments: Spencer, Obituary is great, one of the best at the Palace. It has cool movement: it starts with finger locks and liebacks and moves into big moves on good holds. There is a definite crux but it does stay with you beyond the crux. I would recommend it. There are also several worthy .12/.13 climbs at upper echelon if you haven't scoped that out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : ... : Photo
By: Dusty When: Jan 22, 2010

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Comments: I don't think he's climbing Surf's Up. It's hard to tell with the shadows, but it looks more like he's attempting Freeline or Fraidline.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace
By: Dusty When: Jan 22, 2010

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Comments: Bloodied up the left index finger on the first attempt, so I taped it on subsequent attempts.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace
By: Dusty When: Jan 11, 2010

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Comments: Great. Thanks, Beavs.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Camouflage (5.12b)
By: Dusty When: Dec 15, 2009

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Comments: This climb seemed to get better each time I worked it. The climbing is cryptic and the cruxes seem fairly beta intensive. The rock is bullet, one of the best slab routes I've been on. Sure felt like a sandbag at .12b...but I'm a softy.


Location: General Climbing : Earliest picture of yoursel... : Post : Photo
By: Dusty When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: Wow, Jeff, I wasn't even a thought at the time this photo was taken :)


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Bullet the Blue Sky (5.12c/d)
By: Dusty When: Nov 26, 2009

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Comments: This is one of the best single pitch lines I have ever done!

As far as safety goes: I think it is mostly a safe bolt up. It can definitely feel a bit spicy throwing the dyno, but I feel like you could flub it and take the fall free from harm as long as your belayer was attentive. The third bolt was fine for me but a shorter climber might want to have a draw prehung on that one (the second bolt is quite a ways below you at this point). The rest of the bolts seemed fine.

Do this climb. Commi... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Crazy Fingers (5.12a/b PG13)
By: Dusty When: Nov 9, 2009

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Comments: This climb definitely deserves an anchor. Using the Parallels' anchor is a total drag, literally, when you have to clean. Your rope gets all sorts of chewed up. The three climbs here are definitely popular enough to warrant two anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Wendego (5.12a R)
By: Dusty When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: Wendego is excellent. Super desperate. I can't fathom climbing it barefoot. Skip is badass.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Triple Tier Area : Old Aid Wall aka Upper Eche...
By: Dusty When: Oct 20, 2009

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Comments: There are a lot of climbs on this wall now, at least 8-10. Does anybody have any information about these climbs?


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace
By: Dusty When: Oct 20, 2009

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Comments: Does anyone know anything about the climb immediately to the left Sporting Green? I climbed this the other day and was curious about the name, grade, FA, etc.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Celestial Gate (5.12-)
By: Dusty When: Aug 12, 2009

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Comments: (sigh)...


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Celestial Gate (5.12-)
By: Dusty When: Aug 11, 2009

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Comments: From my experience, Jeff, it's actually easier to lead this climb than to follow it. I've only followed it, however.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Ariana (5.12a)
By: Dusty When: Aug 11, 2009

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Comments: This climb is phenomenal. Very enduro. As stated in the other comments, the moves themselves might not warrant a 5.12 grade, but when you stack that many 11+ moves on top of each other with no rests at 14,000 feet, you're in for a fight. I'm not so sure I'd send a 5.11 climber up Ariana, but if you can climb 5.12 cracks and your alpine endurance is high, go for this one!


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