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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11b)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The presence of the block makes this otherwise excellent route a bit contrived. The entire crux basically amounts to a sit start to the real route, since you can stem or step onto the block at any point. The whole thing is fun, but it's weird having to call a part of it 'off'.
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Location: International : Slovenia : Bled
By: Duncan Lennon When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More specific directions: trains and buses routinely leave for Jesenice, an unappealing city on the Austrian border. They all stop in Lesce, which is about 5km from Bled and 2km from some of the first crags. All in all, within a 10km radius of the town of Bled are over a dozen crags of various sizes, most with high quality limestone.
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Location: MA : Redrock : Zipper (5.5)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a noted classic if it were anywhere else. As it is, one of the best routes at the grade in the region.
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Location: PA : Shaffer Rocks (aka The Herm... : Main Wall : Spider Man Indirect (5.10a)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All these Spider Man climbs finish on the same bit, and there are two bolts up there. They have old hangers and are cemented in place, but might be handy for a quick bail. Don't TR on them. Also, the Spider Man climbs go trad. R to the crack then fine afterwards.
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: Duncan Lennon When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet, thanks. I've been looking for info on individual routes here for years. If you've climbed/seen them, would you mind listing distinguishing features, i.e. crack, corner, etc.
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Location: NH : Square Ledge : Photo
By: Duncan Lennon When: Mar 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perfect view of Pinnacle Gully in the background, too. Both great routes!
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Location: International : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Photo
By: Duncan Lennon When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Owler Tor is the little outcrop above the larger Millstone Edge. Out of frame to the right are Froggat and Curbar edges.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Toe Crack (5.7)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hm, on pitch 1, I think the crux is before you reach Turner's, on the hand traverse once the ramp ends. And as you approach the belay ledge, it is helpful to place as high in the crack as possible so as to protect the second, then downclimb it to the ledge.
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Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : God Module (V11+) : Photo
By: Duncan Lennon When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks like Short Long. I might be wrong, but I don't think it's God Module. Not that I've spent much time trying it.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Upper Cliff : The Roof (5.7)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Nov 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start is the crux. The crack in the dihedral is full of dirt (as of early fall 08), so jamming isn't really an option. Using the face holds I think bumps the grade up a tad. The roof section is way easy compared to the first 15 feet.
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Location: MA : Denrock : Remnants
By: Duncan Lennon When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually a pretty decent boulder with a series of moderate problems great for beginners or warming up. It's between 10 and 15 feet high and around 50 feet long. It is packed with jugs, overhangs, and other fun features. Worth a go.
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Location: International : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Stanage Edge
By: Duncan Lennon When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Rockfax guide is a great resource for locating routes and determining grades. There are not many pictures and the descriptions aren't comprehensive, however. Best to buy a guidebook (Stanage: The Definitive Guide is the best) once you get to the UK.
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Location: NH : Square Ledge
By: Duncan Lennon When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: For those looking to boulder as well as climb some of these great routes, there is a very nice schist boulder near the base of the main face, just right of the approach trail. Reminiscent of Rumney, this boulder has several moderate lines (V0-V5) that follow aretes and rails using crimps. The right hand side of the tallest face has an excellent problem (anyone know names?) and the slab on the back has some crimpy face problems. There is a smaller boulder nearby that could be cleaned.
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Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : Kind Flake (V3) : Photo
By: Duncan Lennon When: Nov 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: All right, there's my evidence. Kind Flake it is. Better name IMO.
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Location: SD : Rock Maze : South Central Rocks : Little Monster (V13+ X) : Photo
By: Duncan Lennon When: Oct 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, you can barely see the 60-foot roof that leads into the mantle. I think some people aren't taking this problem seriously.
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Location: ME : Shagg Crag : The Great Escape (5.10d)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Oct 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I should emphasize what the otherwise excellent description doesn't- that literally every single hold on this climb is an immense jug. If you're able to move quickly and fight the pump, you could redpoint the climb if you don't even climb 5.10. Most of the individual moves are super easy.
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Location: CT : Southwest : The Lemon Boulder
By: Duncan Lennon When: Oct 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bogus. I saw a slew of V11s on this amazing boulder in CT, only to be let down. Rocks like this are a dime a dozen. Respect to your FAs, but making this seem like a destination or 'testpiece central' is misleading.
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Location: MA : Denrock : Building Blocks
By: Duncan Lennon When: Oct 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Access Inner Walls via a tunnel below the rightmost building block. Routes in this area are either very moderate or very contrived. Best suited for soloing or bouldering at the base.
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Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : God Module (V11+)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Oct 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: James Litz made the FA
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Location: MA : Denrock : City Dump
By: Duncan Lennon When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This overhanging, boulderable face is Den Rock's biggest draw. Many local climbers come here after work or on weekends to train on the gym-like crag. City Dump comprises a left-hand face full of moderate problems, a central overhang full of hard eliminates, and a tall, mostly blank right face. The overhang is where the money is, and there are many problems that start low on an excellent jug and pop out the bulge on fun crimpers, sidepulls, and even slopers. Several very strong Rumney climbers ar... more >>
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Location: MA : Denrock : City Park
By: Duncan Lennon When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This crag is a chossfest. Don't climb here. There is a reason Dave Roberts didn't install anchors above it. However, above the crag is a small but worthy boulder with moderate slab problems. To the right of City Park is the main walk off for City Dump, FK, and Petroleum.
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Location: NH : Square Ledge : Standard Route (5.4)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's fun to walk up towards the ledge behind a family or camp group, then solo Standard Route while they take the hiker's trail around. They never fail to show utter bewilderment.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10b)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Oct 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, beware: I'm sure there are more than 10 bolts. Also, the 'crimps' mentioned in the description are generally more like finger jugs or big, positive crimps. Either way, the holds are very good and forgiving on this climb, so don't let anything scare you off. Do it. Classic.
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Location: International : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Millstone Edge : ... : Technical Master - Righthan... (V4)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently this problem has been climbed one-handed and another time barefoot.
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Location: International : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : Stanage Edge : ... : Flying Buttress Direct (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Duncan Lennon When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crucial cam is a #1 camalot. In American grading terms, this route is like a 5.5 slab to a 12-foot V1 to a 5.6 slab with a couple of slopey mantles. Not very sustained, but very excellent. The exposure can't be beat.
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