Comments: In the guide Jeff and I wrote (1980s) and in Jeff's subsequent guide it was Slow Children. For some reason I thought it had to do with the band and changed it in Sky Valley Rock. I am pretty sure Smoot just followed my lead his latest guide.
Comments: Mike - I've climbed in a T-shirt and fully bundled up for winter conditions at Index this time of year. Usually it's pretty wet and not too cold. If the weather hasn't been clear for a week I would say it would not be worth the trip up from Smith unless you wanted to aid climb. You can free climb pretty quickly after the rains stop, it's just that your choice of routes is pretty limited.
Comments: I think there might be a hangerless 1/4" bolt(or two) on the left side of the ledge. When originally climbed there was a large flake at the base that made the first clip and the start of the traverse really easy. Later some rascals trundled it along with a bunch of other rocks in the area. As a result the ledge has become much smaller than it was when the routes were first climbed. Resist the urge to trundle. Seawash west to Steel Monkey is a great place to climb in cold weather (if the sun i... more >>
Comments: The FA dates for routes in the 1980s in both the Smoot and Cummins guides are for the most part very inaccurate. For example, the FFA of Clay was after 1984 and Sonic Reducer was climbed well before 1984.
Comments: As of last spring (2008) p2 was maybe only bit dirtier than I remember it being in the 80s. It was never "cleaned" and never had fixed pins. I think I placed two pins while leading it in the 80's. The top bolt midway up p1 is a 20+ yo Star Drive that is probably not strong enough to withstand a long fall, so be advised if you decide to run it out to the bomber jams at the roof.
From the Beach it is easy to descend this route and set up a TR. Look for a single safety bolt used to protect re... more >>