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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country
By: Drewsky When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ROCKFALL HAS OCCURRED FAIRLY RECENTLY AT THE COUNTRY!!!
Within the past 2 years, somewhat significant rockfall has affected the Country area. A large block landed about 100 feet from the wall next to the trail. Another block landed precisely where the belayer would typically stand for Zoom. More blocks fell into the creek area behind Zoom.
USE CAUTION AND CONSIDER WEARING A HELMET WHILE CLIMBING IN THIS AREA!!!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Star Wall : A Steep Climb Named Desire (5.13d)
By: Drewsky When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strangely enough, I managed to trundle a softball sized rock from this piece; I believe it was above the crux in the cavey section where it's possible to heel/toe hook in a sort of recess while traversing left. Not sure where the rock originated from, but it didn't seem to change the climbing any. Great route! Tough for the grade!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - South Face : When You're Erect (5.12a)
By: Drewsky When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this deserves two stars. It's really pretty good and the shortness of it should be no deterrent, considering it's only a little shorter than average height for Joshua Tree. Love the quartzite edging!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - South Face : Iron Maiden (5.11d)
By: Drewsky When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I want to add a 'shout out' for this route: it's really really good and well worth the blood loss from all the Cat's Claw Acacia that chokes the canyon on the approach.
I led it as one pitch from the ground and found the flared climbing on the second pitch very intriguing and also very difficult. If led as one pitch I recommend the strategic use of a couple of really long runners.
Awesome!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : More Monkey than Funky Rock : More Monkey than Funky (5.11b)
By: Drewsky When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you for posting that link; the video is awesome. And the announcer is right: Leave it to Beaver is "almost impossible"--but not quite. RIP John Bachar!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - North : Gunslinger (5.12a/b)
By: Drewsky When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll never forget the strange, undulating rock on the first pitch. The whole climb is stellar face climbing, with the hardest move being a boulder problem starting the 3rd (5.12-) pitch. The one thing I remember about the protection is that the belay anchor atop pitch 3 was a pair of 1/4" buttonheads as of 4 or 5 years ago. This is an anachronism on this route as most of the hardware appeared to be 3/8". This really should not be missed and deserves more traffic than it appears to have had.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - South : Such A Savage (5.11a R)
By: Drewsky When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're comfortable on 5.10 friction, the runout will likely seem reasonable (it's probably on the easy end of 5.10). That said, the landing is terrible and a highly angulated ankle/leg fracture in the Wonderland would be a horrific ordeal. Use caution!
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Phone Calls from the Dead (5.11b)
By: Drewsky When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hopefully someone will return to complete the removal and fill in the holes nicely. It seems like that part of the job is sometimes neglected by even the most well-intentioned re-bolters.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Unnamed 13- (5.13-)
By: Drewsky When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb made a couple of my fingers numb for a week or two. Otherwise, it's actually pretty cool.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Fingers In A Lightsocket (5.11+)
By: Drewsky When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recall getting solid small cams (green or blue aliens? I can't remember) right before the face climbing at the end. Lots of fun for such a short route. As for the above comments, I guess nothing is ever "hard enough" when your ego problems are calling the shots. Thank goodness we have the internet where we can wear our mediocre attitudes on our sleeves.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Upper : The Phoenix (5.13a)
By: Drewsky When: Apr 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: They're so nice and smooth for your fingers, though!
Also, ants can sometimes provide a miserable experience at the belay 'stance', as can failing to bring a belay seat of some sort.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls
By: Drewsky When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing Access at the Lower Town Wall and some adjacent areas is currently imperiled by potential mining/development operations. Negotiations are currently underway between the owner(s) and the appropriate entities (Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition). If you enjoy climbing at the Town Walls, please watch for more info. When the chance presents itself, consider DONATING to this worthy cause. In the meantime, please respect any potential closures or restrictions that may or may not affe... more >>
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall
By: Drewsky When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing Access at the Lower Town Wall and some adjacent areas is currently imperiled by potential mining/development operations. Negotiations are currently underway between the owner(s) and the appropriate entities (Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition). If you enjoy climbing at the Town Walls, please watch for more info. When the chance presents itself, consider DONATING to this worthy cause. In the meantime, please respect any potential closures or restrictions that may or may not affec... more >>
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Heart of the Country (5.11b)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Jon Stoddard, Randy Stout.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Heironymous Bosch (5.11b)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Greg Child, Andy DeKlerk.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Steel Monkey (5.12)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Brook Sandahl.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Wham (5.11c)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Greg Collum, Greg Child, Tim Wilson.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Hairway to Stephen (5.11a)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Greg Child, Sally Oberlin.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Kite Flying Blind (5.11c)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA P1: Greg Child, Greg Collum. FA P2: Greg Collum, Kurt Schmierer.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Leave My Face Alone (5.11a)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Greg Collum, Matt Kerns.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Zoom (5.10d)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Jon Nelson, Steve Strong, Tom Michael.
Fairly recently, rockfall deposited a headstone-sized block squarely at the belay stance; another block the size of a large washing machine landed about 100 feet out from the wall. Heads up!
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Frank Presley (5.11a)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Greg Collum.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Fifth Force (5.12b)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Greg Collum, Greg Child, Greg Olsen.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Cunning Stunt (5.10d)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Greg Child, Greg Collum.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Wall : The Country : Climax Control (5.11c)
By: Drewsky When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Greg Collum, Cal Folsom, Larissa Collum.
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