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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+)
By: Drew Bedford When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. But the popularity strains the anchor/rappel arrangement. We were one of five parties, and an alternate rappel route would have been a big bonus.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : X Marks the Spot (5.11a)
By: Drew Bedford When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good fun climb. Do it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Diff'rent Strokes Buttress : Rule the World (5.11b/c)
By: Drew Bedford When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seriously good route. A must-do in this area.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Industrial Wall
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be somewhat cautious about this area in summer. HIghly popular, especially on hot days, these routes attract a lot of "campers" -- folks who feel that just because their rope is hanging off the chains that they are entitled to lounge casually until they're ready to give it another go. F**k that, as I told some new "friends", if you're not climbing it, get the hell off and give someone else a chance.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1)
By: Drew Bedford When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Drillled piton on the summit? Is your name Olevsky?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Imperial (5.9+)
By: Drew Bedford When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did do it staying left. Harder for sure. But those big holds out right just suck you over, so I graded it that way because I think that'll see the most ascent.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Centry Trinity (5.13a)
By: Drew Bedford When: Jun 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For what it's worth, Storm named this one "Holy Ghost"
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : On the Waterfront (5.12a)
By: Drew Bedford When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Jay Anderson
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Flirtin' Death (5.12-)
By: Drew Bedford When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So that's what all the Facebook fuss was about. Good job lads. Four stars, really? Is that all?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Arm and Hammer (5.11c)
By: Drew Bedford When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That consensus grade has got to be for the A0 version. Don't short change yourself. P2 is awesome at steep, fun 11a/b.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall, aka H... : Tick Fever (5.11a)
By: Drew Bedford When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Long live Wheels! I remember in the old guide this was the "Wheeler-Newsom Wall". Funny how guidebook authors get to revise/edit things.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: Drew Bedford When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As the IC guidebook says - BURLY
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 C1)
By: Drew Bedford When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had a small part in the FFA of this route, so I get requests for a topo of the free version. I'll post it up in the photos area.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Grommet (5.11-)
By: Drew Bedford When: Sep 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well for historical clarity, "Steel Reserve" is actually pitch 2 of Total Ramon. So that would be the true start. Not that you can't start wherever you want. I did notice that at some point there was some rock fall at the start of the upper pitch, so coming in from Total Ramon may now be less appealing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Imperial (5.9+)
By: Drew Bedford When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well Bri, technically that's not accurate:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/big_cott>>>>>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Imperial (5.9+)
By: Drew Bedford When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I waited 25 years. No takers. Call me impatient.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Generation Gap (5.12b)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The topo photo is somewhat misleading. This is a contrivance, but Gen Gap does not use any holds on Goodro's. There is a thin network of cracks just right of GW. Traverse in from the right, climb directly up via thin cracks and face holds. Do it this way (FA style) while putting in all the gear. Legit 12b.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Closing the Gap Variation (5.12d R)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a one bolt route. FA party finished up Generation Gap. Much more fun.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Diminutive Wall : Exodus (5.9)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Soloed on the FFA. Bolted later.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Skinny Len Crimps (5.11a)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Taking the path of least resistance it is fairly graded. I went slightly right between the first and second bolts. To go direct would be very hard and carry dangerous deck potential. Go straight up to triple chain anchors.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Total Ramon (5.11c PG13)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I certainly never called this a sport route. I would have said 5.11 R. There are cams to be had above the bolts. It's only X (1) if you fall on 5.9, and (2) you have chosen not to carry or place gear.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Conflict (5.10c/d)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The grade depends on how you tackle it. If you directly climb the crack sections, it's a gritty task. If you wend your way around using face holds and side options, it's legit 10d.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Hungry for Heaven (5.10c)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fully contrived.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.10b PG13)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: No way does it deserve a seriousness rating. There's gear the whole way. First, there's a whopping threadable flake before the crux. The placements at the crux have gotten better over the years. What used to be RPs at the crux are now small, but bomb-proof stoppers.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Black and White John and Ma... (5.10c)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The direct finish was added by Doug Heinrich about five or six years ago. It does check in at about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) does cut left to the Half a Finger belay.
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