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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a)
By: Drew Allan When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was there too! Todd is absolutely right. It is a highly dangerous situation at the base of LE if a party is on this route. It was so loud I thought a person had decked. If the guy who was below the route a few minutes beforehand was still there, he probably would have been killed. Beyond scary.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Drew Allan When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Layton Kor?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Burning Chrome (5.11d)
By: Drew Allan When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb feels harder onsight than most CCC 10d's even by going left at the first crux. Make sure you get the fourth bolt clipped. I would suggest easy 11 as it is pumpy and slopey in spots. The upper crux is a bit contrived in that a rather large ledge is just right of the final bolts before the anchor.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Trad Lands : BM Route (5.9)
By: Drew Allan When: May 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg,
The reason this route felt so hard for you is the flake located just right of bolts 3 to 5 in the above picture has fallen off!! Another example for all of us of the freeze/thaw cycle that affects every crag annually. The flake was the crack climbing portion of the route...but not anymore.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : The Avenger (5.13a PG13)
By: Drew Allan When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eds. This comment was originally under a different route and moved here. Thanks to all involved.
I am the one guilty of questioning this route description. My post was merely poking fun at how ridiculous and dangerous this route description is. I did not attack anyone directly or use foul language. Yet it was erased, along with Chris and BJ’s posts.
As Chris has stated, I think it is a bad and horrible precedent to allow people to post a new route description that is merely a partial... more >>
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : East Face aka Clairabell Mi...
By: Drew Allan When: Aug 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Admins:
Clairbell Mine Wall is part of Monitor Rock (east side of formation) and should be moved to that area/rock.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : Chunky Monkey (5.10a)
By: Drew Allan When: Nov 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree that CM has bad bolts. We ran up this route the other day, and I checked the anchors. The right hand bolt has a movable hanger, but the bolt seems to be ok. The left hand bolt appeared fine. I’m not an anchor expert, so maybe one of the Bosch/Hilti guys could check it out to confirm and replace if necessary.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Decider (5.10a/b)
By: Drew Allan When: Jul 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: As mentioned with the route to the right, The Decider also needs to clean up a tad. That should happen with traffic. You may want a long sling at the 8th bolt as you traverse left and then back right to the final roof. It has a two move crux and is not too demanding above or below that point. Not the same quality rock as the new routes to the left (BA & BG).
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiffel Tower (5.10d)
By: Drew Allan When: May 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have always had trouble correlating the route description here to the actual climb. Having just climbed this route again, I now know why. It is because the text written above by Peter is for the WRONG ROUTE. This may have been one of the first routes posted for Little Eiger as the date coincides with the beginning of CB.com. As ac pointed out above, the pictures above are for First Impression not Eiffel Tower. No, Peter's route description is for First Impression. He must have thought the ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Persistent Vegetative State (5.10b)
By: Drew Allan When: Sep 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great, fun route that follows a neat natural feature, the dihedral. The route is very clean now without any loose rock found during our ascent. Get your feet up at the sixth bolt crux and you will find the key hold. It will feel harder otherwise. The corner exit is classic. The bottom dog tag says 10d but I agree with the 10b rating. Best done with a 70m rope. Nice job, Thor.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Olympic Wall : Horny For You (5.11a)
By: Drew Allan When: Aug 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oops, sorry about that Bob. The Willie guide ('94) had it wrong and Perkins ('03) must have used the data from that guide. Thanks for the correction. Nice little line you created.
In response to Cangi's comment about data for routes, it is pretty hard for users of this site to get it right if the guidebook author has a basic detail (i.e. FA party) wrong.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Leftover Stuff (5.10c)
By: Drew Allan When: Jun 24, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun excursion on better rock than it may look. The first half is a good warm up with two fun bulges before the crux upper section. There is a loose block at the first bulge. Don't yard on it. At the top, Work left than right to finish at the anchors. Worthwhile.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Drew Allan When: May 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will match Bob and raise it. Great job Alan and Stefan!!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Lounge Lizard (5.10b/c)
By: Drew Allan When: Aug 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a good addition to Red Slab. I don't think it is quite as good as S&S to the left but it certainly merits two stars. You will want to stay a little left of the bolt line in an 8' minor crack/seam before the crux. Careful not to pull too hard on some small flakes at the crux or they will be gone. At the 6th bolt, you will see the old bolt of MK '74 and above this you will merge with that route. I certainly didn't see any worthy trad placements in this section of that route. Th... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Time Traveler (5.9)
By: Drew Allan When: Jun 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Correction to the above description: There is only one bolt on the slab above the seam.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Cheap Labor (5.10a)
By: Drew Allan When: Jun 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is nice addition to the lower wall of Capitalist Crag. Now, there are two moderates next to each other that allow extra mileage for your pleasure. No need for gear on the run out discussed above; it is minimal and on moderate terrain. Both routes are either 9+ or 10a. You can decide. The fifth clip is a bit of a reach but you can step down and make the traverse easier on lower footholds. A couple of locks later bring you to the belay.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Take Me to the River (5.11a)
By: Drew Allan When: Oct 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt anchor at the top of this route and for Flood Control to the right does not have chains or rings. So don't forget to bring extra draws and/or lockers to rap from this anchor. It is the anchor below the number 12 in the photo.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Drew Allan When: Sep 25, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another run up this route has convinced me that the natural line is left of the bolts above the stemming corner on the second (last) pitch. You are clearly pulled by a good crimp and pocket to the left, which in turn makes you put both feet on the big ledge. Then it is just a question on how far left of the next two bolts you go. The farther left toward the diagonal right facing corner you go, the easier the moves. A quick look at Rolofson's guide confirms a dashed line left of the bolts abo... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: Drew Allan When: Sep 1, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: On Saturday night, August 30, a raging rainstorm washed the bridge at the campground away that evening. It is amazing the power of water even in small stream. Once the runoff from the storm recedes, the stream should be easy to cross for the fall season. Next spring may be another story if we have a good snow pack in the mountains. Unsure whether it will be replaced with all the damage in the area from the Hayman fire.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Recovery (5.11c)
By: Drew Allan When: Aug 3, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route helps define the Reefer Madness grade. As stated above, Recovery is a full number grade easier (i.e. 10c). There is a little trick move mid-height; otherwise, it is easy climbing to the corner. The corner itself is only several moves before reaching a bomber hold just before the anchor ledge. You are well protected here, so the scare factor is minimal. Good, fun climb.
With that being said, RM feels a letter grade or two harder than Recovery. RM moves are tr... more >>
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : I Claudius (5.11b)
By: Drew Allan When: Jun 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you want to go limestone crack climbing at Shelf, this is your route. It offers everything from fingers to hands and definitely merits three stars. I climbed to the first bolt with my left hand in the crack and was able to clip and down climb to the right. It is thin to clip and you don't want to fall. If it doesn't feel right, do as Bryson suggests and stick clip. Save your arms for the moves over the little roof. RT's book suggests 11a and this site 11b.Whichever it is, you will be sm... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Contra (5.11)
By: Drew Allan When: May 27, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with Bryson. On sight this route is 11ish or at least 10d++. I am also 6' and had trouble finding the right sequence just before the anchor. I certainly didn't find a hidden hold to make it 10b. Although it is short, the route is harder than most 10c/d's in CC (to qualify: CC 10c/d only!!). The route is definitely steeper and more edgy than I expected. Make sure to bring your edging shoes. Footholds down low on the right side are still flaking off somewhat. If you come fro... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Jelly Omelet (5.10c)
By: Drew Allan When: Feb 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Derek and Richard (see Sex Favor). This is the description for Sex Favor. I have never felt that the 10c route existed (unless by top rope). Over the years that I have climbed at Squat, there were never bolts between SF and EW. Maybe Hubble can explain.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Hey Good Lookin' (5.11d)
By: Drew Allan When: Sep 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: With all due respect to Leo, I don't agree with his assessment. There are only about five bolts up to the roof relative to its neighbor, Vixen, having ten. Although the climbing is not hard, it is spicy for "gentle 5.9". The rock is a bit dirty in this section and, hence, ups the scare factor. A fall before the first bolt would be very nasty. As stated above, the new lower anchor is not at the roof. You must traverse 15 to 20 feet horizontally to the Vixen anchor. This sets up a big pendu... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Neo-Quasi Bugaloo (5.10a)
By: Drew Allan When: Aug 31, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are trying to determine which is route is easier to climb between this route and its neighbor, Learning to Crawl, I would suggest LTC. Although rated slighter lower, NQB is definitely harder than LTC in IMHO. There are approximately four crux sections on this route and, with the added length, makes NQB more challenging. The roof on this route is more involved than LTC. My partner felt the same way. Interesting to see what others think.
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