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Rock Climbing Photo: Lowering out on the Mescalito... '94


Member Since: Aug 20, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Drew Spaulding

Point Rank: # 173
Total Points: 3,267
Last Year: 144
Last 30 Days: 0
29 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Drew Spaulding been climbing?










Contributions


All 750 | Routes 119 | Areas 25 | Photos 323 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 84 | Posts 41 | Stars 138 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Summit Dome : Utterly Thin (5.12a/b)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Jun 25, 2016

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Comments: Sweet, Justin! As you could probably tell, we hadn't been back since 1st bolting this line a few years back. It was late in the evening, and we didn't have the time to finish the job.... You are probably the only person to ever lead this line. I'm really glad you got on it! Were you able to free all the moves???!!! What did you think the rating should be? I remember some wild, balancy, thumb undercling to the steep bulge with not-so-pos... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Nuns : The Flying Nun (5.10a) : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: "Heady move"... you ain't kidding! When I led that roof, I used my head/helmet as a "chimney stem" behind my back on the under side of the roof! When I pried my head back onto the gracious edge(you can see it in the photo above your partner...), a loose plate fell onto my belayer's leg on the belay ledge below. He was startled and scared but luckily he was okay. I remember that head stem was everything for me!


Location: CO : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall : The Leaning Seam (5.11a PG13)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Full wingspan bear hug on a small hold out far right before climbing past the crux bolt!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: I've inserted the lines out to the right of Upper Shasta that we have climbed over the past few years. These lines are distinct, individual crack systems that deserve to have their own names. They may be hidden from a distant view, but a closer look reveals many cracks with good gear placements. Yes, there is lichen, some runout pocket climbing, and some gritty rock, but the gear is good and the lines are really fun! No bolts are required....


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : The Bird's Nest : Romancing The Stone (5.11b)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Nate! I think I make the clip from the razor hold over the lip.... Sharp, crimpy, powerful and balancy! Wild roof for sure with a bit of a run out above.... You definitely want to clip that 3rd bolt before busting past it!!! Nice job! Must've been scary!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Recess (5.10c)
By: Drew Spaulding When: May 23, 2015

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Comments: I think that people rating this climb 5.10a must be stepping out left at the crux bolt. I think if you stay directly above and right of the crux bolt, this steep roof move is more like 5.10c/d. There is an incredible lieback edge to the right of the crux bolt which puts you into a powerful position to make a long reach with the left hand (harder than 10a...).


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Main Flow Right (WI4)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: Back in the day we called the main pillar Newt's Veil....


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Sickle on a Stick (aka Newt... (WI5) : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: Back in the day we called this main pillar Newt's Veil....


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Wolcott Crags and Boulders : Wolcott Navajo Band - (East... : Wolcott Great Roof aka Bob ... (5.11+)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: Martin, do you really think it's a "new" edge? I only climbed this route once and remember the hardest part is the awkward, flaring fist crack above the far end of the roof. It looks like my feet are on some edges out near the end of the roof... do you think I'm over-rating the difficulty? Let us know what you think the rating should be....


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Marley Wall : Easy Skankin' (5.10b)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: Kaya and Easy Skankin' are 2 different routes. Easy Skankin' was put up first and was quite popular for a year or 2. It went up the middle of the wall and through a canopy of delicate stalactites... It was considered the moderate route on the wall(6a) and many people climbed it because of the easy grade... Tom and Co decided to remove the stainless hangers and punch in these bolts instead of rebolting it with Titanium. The danger factor of belaying under people climbing through the precarious s... more >>


Location: Northern Utah & Idaho : 2014 - 2015 Utah Region Ice : Post : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Dec 31, 2014

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Comments: Looking stout...


Location: Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Dec 14, 2014

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Comments: Better known as Newt's Veil....


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Riddler's Delight (5.10) : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: This is the start of a much earlier established route than the Riddler's Delight. I believe that the FA-ist gained the splitter 3rd pitch of Riddler's Delight and climbed it before I did... There was slings on the small tree atop the 3rd pitch splitter which leads me to believe the FA-ist of this bottom pitch had also accessed the 3rd pitch slitter. Above the old bolted anchors(which I added a bolt to in '99) of this old sandy pitch, you have to gain the ramping corner above to downclimb 40'-50'... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Riddler's Delight (5.10) : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: This pitch is 150'-200' to the left of the original start of the Riddler's Delight. I've never climbed it but it looks good... route finding must be a bit difficult because you have to gain the ramping corner system where the 3rd pitch splitter starts. Which means you have to down climb a long way(40'-50') to reach the 3rd pitch splitter...not fun


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Canyon Doors aka Variation ... (5.10b)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: The tricky gear and the incredible handlebar jug over the lip of the roof are quite memorable and hard to forget.... Really fun moves!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Fourth Buttress : Canyon Doors aka Variation ... (5.10b)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Nov 25, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, George, for the info and the history on this line. I assumed that someone had climbed sections of this line in the past... After cleaning and excavating many important placements, I wondered...? After the large roof on the left that we climbed, the diagonal seem trending rightward was choked with dirt and moss to the point that it didn't appear any one had ever placed gear there before... Now it has been cleaned and takes good nuts for protection. I also cleaned the classic corner sectio... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Pirate Mode (5.10c)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 25, 2014

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Comments: ....there are some longer stretches of crack climbing on the F. Y. Wall!!!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Pirate Mode (5.10c)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: Glad you got up there, Nate! That 2nd pitch is really the gem...60' of crack climbing on The Monitor is a rarity followed by the beautiful headwall above. "The Other Road" is the route to the left of the "Mother Load" and IMHO is the best route of the 3....
I've also established 5 new 3-pitch routes on the upper left side of the MONITOR that nobody has commented on at all.... The F. Y. Wall is the true, new gem of the MONITOR. Numerous crack systems grace the incredible, heart-shaped plaque...ch... more >>


Location: CO : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall : A Brief Squall (5.7+) : Photo
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: This route is not intended to climb near the large, right-facing corner to the left of "Brief Squall". There are a few smaller placements 5'-6' to the right of the leading climber in this picture. More direct and less ropedrag too!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Toy Box (5.10b/c)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Push with your left hand on the "tooth", and match your left foot below it.... Push first, then reach up left!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : The Dispensary (5.10a)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: Fun and interesting pitch. Thin face climbing! Seems that there is 2 ways to climb past almost each bolt... some ways easier/harder than others. Fairly big runout after the final bolt....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Vertical Smile (5.7)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Although very ignored and overlooked...this really is one of the nicer single-pitch 5.7 routes in Eldo. Incredible position, beautiful features, thin crack, and some challenging sections. Classic!


Location: CO : Leadville : Weston Wall : Chips and Salsa (5.11d)
By: Drew Spaulding When: Jun 6, 2014

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Comments: Hey Rob, I guess it depends at what level one's exasperation threshold is no longer fun.... "Chips and Salsa" is long and tedious. For me, that usually means not good, because sending this pitch is really tough, but, I guess most 5.11+ routes are tedious and this one happens to be long. Exasperating!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rosy II - (In Memory Of Lay... (5.11b PG13)
By: Drew Spaulding When: May 31, 2014

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Comments: Hey Steve, I do agree that the 1st pitch could probably have 1 or 2 bolts on it. I feel the gear is sufficient as it is, but if you're off route, it's not sufficient. ACE encouraged me to place 2 more bolts on the 2nd pitch from my original request of only 1 bolt. They thought having those bolts would help climbers "know where to go" up on the vast face of holds and options.... Make it "not so contrived and more of a desirable route". I did suggest, if that's why we're placing more bolts, then w... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Rosy II - (In Memory Of Lay... (5.11b PG13)
By: Drew Spaulding When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Cool to hear you guys got up there to feel your way... freakin' wild! 1st pitch is scarcely protected if not on the line, but if you follow the S pattern, there are 9-10 pieces to place in 70'. 5.8+ to start, then mostly 5.7-8 the rest of the pitch. From the belay stance (small cave), climb up the ramp about 8-10' to start the 1st pitch. 2nd pitch is 135' of fairly full-on route finding and puzzle fitting... plus powerful too! Great to hear you did it in 1 pitch, Scott! Nice work! Let's get up t... more >>


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