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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: Drew Bedford When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing and engaging route. It has to be in my Red Rocks all-time top five.
Two approach notes: if you use the Adventure Punks/Challenger approach, do not get pulled up into the Challenger alcove: stay low and left (look for cairns). Otherwise you have to gain and lose elevation for no reason.
We did Drifting at the end of April. If it's warm, there's no need to rush - the base of the route does not go into shade until 10:45 a.m.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Eagle Buttress and Environs : Strangeways (5.11-) : Photo
By: Drew Bedford When: Jan 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: How many mayors does LCC get? Or did Mike Beck get tossed out of office?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Drew Bedford When: Jan 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It would require a burly jack, or Mike Tea.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress
By: Drew Bedford When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Mother of Pearl (5.11+) : Photo
By: Drew Bedford When: Jan 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great historical shot Brian. Interesting that Brett is belaying from beneath Badlands. Big run out! Merril was looking at a big swing off the hard barn-door start of MOP.
Crazy that everything behind Brett's back and butt is gone!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Wing Nut (5.11c)
By: Drew Bedford When: May 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seth was quiet and burly indeed. Miss him.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R) : Photo
By: Drew Bedford When: Mar 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I find that as I age I need to take more.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Fallen Arches (5.13a)
By: Drew Bedford When: Feb 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nope. There used to be a pin at that bouldery spot. The only bolts on the FFA were at the belay.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Mother of Pearl (5.11+)
By: Drew Bedford When: Feb 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can be done in one long pitch from the ground, making a nice long 12a. I agree -- the bolts are excessive.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Fallen Arches (5.13a)
By: Drew Bedford When: Feb 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The all-time best crack line in LCC. Not sure how this thing got a bolt on it--there's gear aplenty.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R)
By: Drew Bedford When: Feb 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's just climbing. If you feel bold, lead it. If not, I suggest running up Sticky Zipper and setting up a top-rope. Not sure why all the fuss.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : To Air is Human (5.10d)
By: Drew Bedford When: Jan 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Woot Monkey!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Bloodline (5.12c PG13)
By: Drew Bedford When: Jan 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original route ended at slings around a horn at the end of the crack. A few years later I repeated the route and noticed the flakes out left. I added one bolt and a belay that extended the route another 30 or 40 feet.
I don't see the need for a PG rating. The gear is there. Perhaps not simple to place, but it's there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Gran Hermano (5.11a/b)
By: Drew Bedford When: Jan 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's easy to say that back in the day these would have been climbed as variations. But I think it's good to record them, give 'em a name and a grade. Proud cracks are in short supply. Good additions to the East Gate.
P.S. James, I hope you're doing well amigo!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R)
By: Drew Bedford When: Dec 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great heads-up climbing. Deserves the R rating for sure. I was surprised that the Handren guidebook does not offer a seriousness grade for this route (or Excellent Adventure).
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon
By: Drew Bedford When: Nov 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tracked waypoints for the rim rappel approach. PM me if you'd like them.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Cauldrons : Eye of the Newt (5.10)
By: Drew Bedford When: Nov 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with Sam. I'd give the second pitch 10d. I would also augment the rack recommendation with triples on #1, 2 and 3 camalots. Your mileage may vary.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon
By: Drew Bedford When: Nov 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the Rim Rappel approach, is it one 60m rope to get into the Witch/Warlock? I assume it's steep enough that jugs are necessary to get out?
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11a)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely worth doing the first three or so pitches before joining the direct Becky.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sustained, beautiful, engaging. Do it now.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Divine Guidance (5.11-)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone have a topo?!
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Direct Beckey (5.11a)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Topo is a bit vague about the top pitches approaching the summit. When in doubt, head right.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Sideline (5.9+)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun variation. Just be aware that it involves some mandatory long runouts.
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Sunrise Book (5.12-)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are routes that go free. And there are routes that are great free climbing. IMHO, the crux pitch falls into the first category. Tape is nice for the second pitch. Third pitch is not to be missed. Out there!
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Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Splittgerber-March Direct (5.10b)
By: Drew Bedford When: Aug 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Pitch 1 and 6 are fun fingers/tips and we felt both deserve the 5.10 grade. Not sure about all the fuss on the "5.9+" face traverse; felt more like 5.8, although it is hard to protect the second. Don't let your guard down on the upper pitches. This route's not done 'til you tag the top. As good as Astro Elephant? Not quite, but almost.
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