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Base of Stiffler's Mom


Member Since: Mar 29, 2008
Last Visit: Apr 6, 2014
Contact drewford


Point Rank: # 1,572
Total Points: 360
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
34 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (253) | Routes (15) | Areas (1) | Photos (24) | Comments (75) | Posts (17) | Stars (105) | Ratings (16)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Intruder (5.11+)
By: drewford When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: I remember doing this back in the day. Pumped as I reached the belay, I grabbed the webbing threaded through a two pin belay —one popped out, the other slid. Needless to say, after placing some cams, I hauled up the drill. A great sustained line.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: drewford When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Such a classic! A couple updates and tips:

- I know the Handren guide advises the Pine Creek approach, which we took. But the Juniper Creek parking lot looks a lot closer with fewer creek beds and climbs.

- The route faces east/northeast. The sun was off the route by noon (Feb.) so layer accordingly.

- in the description it says "Find the only big tree in sight". Well there's more than one big tree. See Matt McMurray's cautionary comment. Keep looking over your right shoulder for the pine wi... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Chollo (5.10d)
By: drewford When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: @Tyler - yeah, I think so. The crack is still the business. By itself, I think the Shiho-low start is 5.9


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Yellow Wall : Yellow Wall (5.9)
By: drewford When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: A great line. Could really use some fixed anchors for descent and to TR the 5.11 to the left.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Lend Me a Dime (5.12b)
By: drewford When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: I think you mean "the later half of Orange Crush."


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: drewford When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Amazing and engaging route. It has to be in my Red Rocks all-time top five.

Two approach notes: if you use the Adventure Punks/Challenger approach, do not get pulled up into the Challenger alcove: stay low and left (look for cairns). Otherwise you have to gain and lose elevation for no reason.

We did Drifting at the end of April. If it's warm, there's no need to rush - the base of the route does not go into shade until 10:45 a.m.



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Eagle Buttress and Environs : Strangeways (5.11-) : Photo
By: drewford When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: How many mayors does LCC get? Or did Mike Beck get tossed out of office?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : ... : Photo
By: drewford When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: It would require a burly jack, or Mike Tea.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress
By: drewford When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Mother of Pearl (5.11+) : Photo
By: drewford When: Jan 28, 2012

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Comments: Great historical shot Brian. Interesting that Brett is belaying from beneath Badlands. Big run out! Merril was looking at a big swing off the hard barn-door start of MOP.

Crazy that everything behind Brett's back and butt is gone!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Wing Nut (5.11c)
By: drewford When: May 19, 2011

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Comments: Seth was quiet and burly indeed. Miss him.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R) : Photo
By: drewford When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: I find that as I age I need to take more.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Fallen Arches (5.13a)
By: drewford When: Feb 5, 2011

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Comments: Nope. There used to be a pin at that bouldery spot. The only bolts on the FFA were at the belay.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Mother of Pearl (5.11+)
By: drewford When: Feb 5, 2011

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Comments: Can be done in one long pitch from the ground, making a nice long 12a. I agree -- the bolts are excessive.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Fallen Arches (5.13a)
By: drewford When: Feb 5, 2011

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Comments: The all-time best crack line in LCC. Not sure how this thing got a bolt on it--there's gear aplenty.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R)
By: drewford When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: It's just climbing. If you feel bold, lead it. If not, I suggest running up Sticky Zipper and setting up a top-rope. Not sure why all the fuss.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : To Air is Human (5.10d)
By: drewford When: Jan 14, 2011

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Comments: Woot Monkey!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Bloodline (5.12c PG13)
By: drewford When: Jan 14, 2011

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Comments: The original route ended at slings around a horn at the end of the crack. A few years later I repeated the route and noticed the flakes out left. I added one bolt and a belay that extended the route another 30 or 40 feet.

I don't see the need for a PG rating. The gear is there. Perhaps not simple to place, but it's there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Gran Hermano (5.11a/b)
By: drewford When: Jan 14, 2011

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Comments: It's easy to say that back in the day these would have been climbed as variations. But I think it's good to record them, give 'em a name and a grade. Proud cracks are in short supply. Good additions to the East Gate.

P.S. James, I hope you're doing well amigo!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Risky Business (5.10c R)
By: drewford When: Dec 15, 2010

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Comments: Great heads-up climbing. Deserves the R rating for sure. I was surprised that the Handren guidebook does not offer a seriousness grade for this route (or Excellent Adventure).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon
By: drewford When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: I tracked waypoints for the rim rappel approach. PM me if you'd like them.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Cauldrons : Eye of the Newt (5.10)
By: drewford When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: I have to agree with Sam. I'd give the second pitch 10d. I would also augment the rack recommendation with triples on #1, 2 and 3 camalots. Your mileage may vary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon
By: drewford When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: For the Rim Rappel approach, is it one 60m rope to get into the Witch/Warlock? I assume it's steep enough that jugs are necessary to get out?


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11a)
By: drewford When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: Definitely worth doing the first three or so pitches before joining the direct Becky.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a)
By: drewford When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: Sustained, beautiful, engaging. Do it now.


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