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Base of Stiffler's Mom


Member Since: Mar 29, 2008
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact drewford


Point Rank: # 1,602
Total Points: 367
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 1
37 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has drewford been climbing?










Contributions


All 276 | Routes 15 | Areas 1 | Photos 24 | Page Improvments | Comments 82 | Posts 18 | Stars 114 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Narcolepsy
By: drewford When: Jul 25, 2014

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Comments: Far be it from me to influence crag names. It's a personal thing. But there is already a Narcolepsy area in Big Cottonwood: www.mountainproject.com/v/narcolepsy-area/105739449

Might create confusion.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Specter Wall : Apparition (5.11)
By: drewford When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Great line. Well protected. Bring your best LCC footwork game.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Hidden Heavenly Slab : The 7th Way (5.11)
By: drewford When: Jun 30, 2014

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Comments: Super fun route. Pitch 4 is a must-do for any granite aficionado. A few observations:
- there are two bolted lines out the roof on P1. The left seemed like the easier option.
- A single rack from .4 cam to a 2 cam would seem adequate. Bring 5 long slings and at least 10 draws.
- The rap from the top of P2 to P1 is longer than a single 60m will allow. I would recommend a single 70m.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Flashdance (5.11c R)
By: drewford When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Just now seeing bsmoot's comment about the FFA. Wow. Having freed the route, and considering the date, had it been anyone else but George, I'd be super skeptical. But when someone calls Crack of Doom "5.9 with a boulder start" you know they're in a league of their own!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Meat Puppets (5.12c)
By: drewford When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: To my knowledge that's an uncompleted open project. Partially bolted by Doug Heinrich.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : Peeler Face : Golden Eye (5.13a)
By: drewford When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: This route keeps getting harder? Used to be 12c I thought.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine
By: drewford When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: There's a bolted line left of Triumphal Arch. Any idea what it is?


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Intruder (5.11+)
By: drewford When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: I remember doing this back in the day. Pumped as I reached the belay, I grabbed the webbing threaded through a two pin belay —one popped out, the other slid. Needless to say, after placing some cams, I hauled up the drill. A great sustained line.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: drewford When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Such a classic! A couple updates and tips:

- I know the Handren guide advises the Pine Creek approach, which we took. But the Juniper Creek parking lot looks a lot closer with fewer creek beds and climbs.

- The route faces east/northeast. The sun was off the route by noon (Feb.) so layer accordingly.

- in the description it says "Find the only big tree in sight". Well there's more than one big tree. See Matt McMurray's cautionary comment. Keep looking over your right shoulder for the pine wi... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Chollo (5.10d)
By: drewford When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: @Tyler - yeah, I think so. The crack is still the business. By itself, I think the Shiho-low start is 5.9


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Yellow Wall : Yellow Wall (5.9)
By: drewford When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: A great line. Could really use some fixed anchors for descent and to TR the 5.11 to the left.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall : Lend Me a Dime (5.12b)
By: drewford When: Aug 23, 2013

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Comments: I think you mean "the later half of Orange Crush."


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Drifting (5.11c PG13)
By: drewford When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Amazing and engaging route. It has to be in my Red Rocks all-time top five.

Two approach notes: if you use the Adventure Punks/Challenger approach, do not get pulled up into the Challenger alcove: stay low and left (look for cairns). Otherwise you have to gain and lose elevation for no reason.

We did Drifting at the end of April. If it's warm, there's no need to rush - the base of the route does not go into shade until 10:45 a.m.



Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Eagle Buttress and Environs : Strangeways (5.11-) : Photo
By: drewford When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: How many mayors does LCC get? Or did Mike Beck get tossed out of office?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : ... : Photo
By: drewford When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: It would require a burly jack, or Mike Tea.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress
By: drewford When: Jan 29, 2013

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Comments: This area is best approached from the Great White Icicle parking. Head west along the jeep road that heads toward the Black Peeler. There's a nice trail that skirts along the base of the Peeler, and leads right to the East Gate. Watch for snakes!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Mother of Pearl (5.11+) : Photo
By: drewford When: Jan 28, 2012

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Comments: Great historical shot Brian. Interesting that Brett is belaying from beneath Badlands. Big run out! Merril was looking at a big swing off the hard barn-door start of MOP.

Crazy that everything behind Brett's back and butt is gone!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Wing Nut (5.11c)
By: drewford When: May 19, 2011

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Comments: Seth was quiet and burly indeed. Miss him.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R) : Photo
By: drewford When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: I find that as I age I need to take more.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Fallen Arches (5.13a)
By: drewford When: Feb 5, 2011

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Comments: Nope. There used to be a pin at that bouldery spot. The only bolts on the FFA were at the belay.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Mother of Pearl (5.11+)
By: drewford When: Feb 5, 2011

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Comments: Can be done in one long pitch from the ground, making a nice long 12a. I agree -- the bolts are excessive.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Fallen Arches (5.13a)
By: drewford When: Feb 5, 2011

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Comments: The all-time best crack line in LCC. Not sure how this thing got a bolt on it--there's gear aplenty.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R)
By: drewford When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: It's just climbing. If you feel bold, lead it. If not, I suggest running up Sticky Zipper and setting up a top-rope. Not sure why all the fuss.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : To Air is Human (5.10d)
By: drewford When: Jan 14, 2011

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Comments: Woot Monkey!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Bloodline (5.12c PG13)
By: drewford When: Jan 14, 2011

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Comments: The original route ended at slings around a horn at the end of the crack. A few years later I repeated the route and noticed the flakes out left. I added one bolt and a belay that extended the route another 30 or 40 feet.

I don't see the need for a PG rating. The gear is there. Perhaps not simple to place, but it's there.


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