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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : The Go Between (5.11c)
By: Dreez When: Nov 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh yeah, when I replaced the anchors, I turned the old 3" bolt and the rock just fractured and the bolt fell out with rock crumbles in my hand. So I put 5" bolts in and left the last 3" bolt as the "Hail Mary". That's why there is 10' of chain up there.
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Location: MN : Barn Bluff (Red Wing) : Winter Wall : The Go Between (5.11c)
By: Dreez When: Nov 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMHO, this is THE classic 5.11 at RW. Crack, face, overhang, crimpers, devious slopey finish when you are spent. And the view is fantastic. Anadonia can't compare, 1 move wonder.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Dreez When: Aug 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We stayed at the Ten Sleep RV park in town. Great for $18/night, WIFI. Good showers. Abouit 5 miles to crag.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Dreez When: Aug 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We stayed at the Ten Sleep RV park in town. Great for $18/night, WIFI. Good showers. Abouit 5 miles to crag.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Eagle Creek Canyon : Eagle Lake Cliff
By: Dreez When: Aug 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: TO the left of Buster Brown about 20 feet there is a line that I did that started thin fingers 5.10'ish and over the hump you need HUGE gear double #4's and #5's. I'm a wuss so I scampered down and TR'd from top.
At the top when TR'ing, look for the double pine trees next to each other and further on a bent over big pine tree that looks like someone sat on it all curled to the ground. In between the double pine trees you can rap down to rap anchors for this climb. Need #3 and ... more >>
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Dreez When: Aug 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. Wow. Did I say Wow.
Talked about Mega-bolted and some ultra classic routes. Never did I feel scared, and I am a 100% wuss lead climber. The people that did this are creating a world class #1 top destination. I've been on the road 3 months and this blows away any other crag.
I heard from a local that Mike Snyder???? Some Mike guy did most the work on this canyon. The approach paths must of took YEARS. Talk about hard work. And bolting 500+ climbs with bolts every 6 feet. Wow. Must ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Ice Cream Parlor : 5.6 Corner (5.6)
By: Dreez When: Jul 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually a 3 pitch route. Pitch 2 is mostly bolts with maybe 1 medium cam. Super easy 5.4. but crumbly so be carefull. Pitch 3 goes up about 60 feet up WIDE flake so bring big gear maybe #4 and #5. Looks easy but I did not do it. I saw anchors on top of flake about 20 feet to right of the end of the flake crack. I saw the anchors from a different climb, the 5.8 crack back to the left. There are also rap bolts on the flake itself so you can bring 1 rope.
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Location: MN : Robinson Park (Sandstone)
By: Dreez When: Oct 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: See www.dreezman.com/Bolting/sandstone_quarry.htm for latest routes. This area is still being developed.
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