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Member Since: May 24, 2011
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact DrApnea


Point Rank: # 2,895
Total Points: 173
Last Year: 75
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has DrApnea been climbing?










Contributions


All 782 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 25 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts 245 | Stars 367 | Ratings 115
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Pearly Gates
By: DrApnea When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Summer shade until 2-3pm. Leave the Icicle creek at the first leftward turn immediatly after the irrigation canal. Follow the climbers trail about 100 yards until you see a large downed tree across the first branch of the creek, cross it, walk back down stream about 50 feet and you will regain the climbers trail to cross the second branch of the creek on a smaller log. 25 more minutes and you will at Pearly Gates.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Pearly Gates : Veins of Glory (5.10b)
By: DrApnea When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: I thought the single finger single pad pocket was a bit overstated, but it really is a single finger, single pad pocket above the roof to balance you up. Fun route, well protected roof crux. Lower crux is reaching the first bolt. Small gear can help keep it tame.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Pearly Gates : TOOL TIME (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Not scary runout, but it is runout. Single move crux with balancing on your toes being key. Some gear <2" would protect the runouts (which you probably already had on your rack from the approach pitch).


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Roto Wall : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Roto Wall Left side. Roto Route is on the left side. Vertical smile is on the slabby wall right of this picture


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Roto Wall
By: DrApnea When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Good beginner area for taking the kids. Only a 50 yard walk from the road. Can TR many of the lines by walking around and up the right side tiers. The base of the right side of Roto wall is flat and in the shade.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Divine Decadence (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: More fun than the neighboring Carol's Crack. Protects well


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Columbian Crack (5.7)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Why are there bolts next to this perfect crack? Bring the big gear, pull the bolts. If this route needs any bolts it is only for a station to rap from.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Stripe Rock : Dykes of Gastonia (5.7)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 2, 2014

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Comments: Belay at the roof where you start the dyke if you want to belay from anything besides a single chickenhead/horn.
Second belay is a single horn backed up by a single piece behind a block that is completely detached. Fun times but the belays are sketch.
Also the "home made bolt" is gone or I didn't find it. There are two newer bolts on the first pitch but it still deserves a strong R rating.
Also we walked around a bit before finding the rap station. Finish the route and continue up and over ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Kiss the Sky (5.10b)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Nothing bigger than BD C4 #0.5 for the second pitch. Thin edging.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Maudlin (5.7) : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Also note where the other photo says the 70M rope ending 10ft above the ground is actually at about shoulder height or lower.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: DrApnea When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Supertopo guide was spot on. We aided P1-3 and freed P4 and up.
We brought more gear than necessary, so here is what we actually used:

DMM offset aluminum nuts: 2 sets (only used 1 set)
TriCams: #0.5, 1, 1.5 (really only need the 1 and 1.5 for placement above the roof on P2)
Metolius Mastercams #0 (never used)
Metolius Mastercams #1
Metolius Mastercams #2
Metolius Mastercams #3
Metolius Mastercams #0/1
Metolius Mastercams #1/2
Metolius Mastercam... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Bad Moki Roof (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Saw a 0.75 BC C4 jammed way back in there on the traversing roof section last week. Tried to work it out but the trigger wire was already a bit worked. Good luck to who ever tries for it next.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Private Pizza Wall : Photo
By: DrApnea When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Rough locations from memory. feel free to correct me if you disagree


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Layback Crack (5.5)
By: DrApnea When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: The new anchors here are unnecessary, even for a 5.5 climb. They are in the middle of pitch 2. They are next to a tree. They are next to a gear anchor potential. They are only 20 feet from the prior established belay anchors that reside at a nice ledge. Whoever put these in needs to sell their drill. Pull them and reclaim your hangers before someone else does.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Peshastin Pinnacles State P...
By: DrApnea When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Good information on Peshastin located at:
justgetout.net/JGO/post/Peshas...

Pictures of the area, some route topos, etc.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Industrial Wall : Loading Dock (5.9+)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: This must have cleaned up quite a bit since the comments above because it was not dirty and had good moves. I thought it was just as good as Hoffa finger. Pulling through the roof is the crux and very different than its brother next door. Felt like 5.9+ to 10-


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Unknown (5.9)
By: DrApnea When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: Done in approach shoes. A fun line, no harder than 5.7, It really should be a trad climb though since nearly every bolt had a spot for pro within 3 feet of it if you had the right gear (Tricams, nuts, and mastercams).


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: DrApnea When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: Comments:
-P1: Do the 5.10 pitch variation. I followed it in approach shoes without difficulty.
-P5: Chimney pitch is awkward if getting into it low. after flailing down low, I ended up getting back out of it and getting high up by the anchors before re-entering it. This sets you up to free climb to the bolt, or french free by pulling on a tipped out BD#4 or properly fit #5.
-Gear: If aggressively back cleaning cams triples would be enough, even for the #0.5 pitch. Just han... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Narcolepsy (5.8 R)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 19, 2012

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Comments: #00 mastercam and an offset #2/3 mastercam both fit great below the first bolt. Didn't try anything between that and the second because the holds were pretty good if you stay right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : Peeler Face : Peeler Direct (A2)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: This climb is actually 2 pitches, sharing the same first pitch as Black peeler, but they diverge at the ramp. On P2, it is a pretty long reach from the last bolt to the bashie even though I was top stepping. Maybe the bashie was at the bottom of the crack before like it says in the description, but it is at least another foot higher than where I was expecting it considering that the bolts to get there can be ascended from the 2nd or 3rd steps. I had to top step and tie a quickdraw open to get... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Nostrum (5.8 A2)
By: DrApnea When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: The anchor in the ledge atop of Butterfield Route P1 (in book) consists of a KB and a knotted rope jammed in a shallow constriction. The tree below this was questionable when I pushed on it to test for a rappel. I'd recommend the next person bring a longer LA to leave near the KB for the anchor in the alcove. Also the shrub is getting thick in the cracks around this area so it must need more traffic.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Center Face (5.6)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Felt like 5.5. Fun but not more than a 2 star route unless you give it an extra because of the length. 5 Bolted anchors are there to rap off with a 60M rope when done. The retro-bolted version of this route (Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed) needs to be pulled. There are more than enough natural gear placements here even if you only bring a set of nuts, hexes, and slings.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed (5.7)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: This bolted route is not necessary. It is not even a first ascent as listed above but rather a retro-bolt of another route. Someone needs to chop this. If you hike this far to do a 5.6, at least use the natural gear that the wall already takes. Bolting this line, Which is essentially center face, is a disgrace.
Pull it and delete it from MP.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Layback Crack (5.5)
By: DrApnea When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: If you do P2, go through the roofs. Adds some fun, but no harder than 5.7


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Amphitheater Overhang Right (A1)
By: DrApnea When: Feb 16, 2012

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Comments: Dry despite recent snowfall. Currently has fixed gear along the entire roof.


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