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Member Since: Aug 19, 2011
Last Visit: Oct 18, 2016
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Point Rank: # 1,440
Total Points: 543
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has dragons been climbing?


All 224 | Routes 30 | Areas | Photos 47 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 20 | Stars 103 | Ratings 16

Contributed Comments


Location: NH : *Whitehorse Ledge : 7. The Slabs : Beginners Easy Variation (5.3)
By: dragons When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Can anyone provide info on how to proceed beyond P4, relative to Cormier-Magness? I've done it several times and always wind up at the exit cracks of The Open Book pitch of Cormier-Magness. I belay there, then follow Cormier-Magness to the top, because I don't see another way to go. I saw Chris Lumens comment... are you really supposed to navigate off right into trees at the top of the Open Book?

Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Mom's Pancake (5.5)
By: dragons When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: There used to be a bong in one of the horizontal cracks but I didn't see it today (didn't see any fixed pro at all, though Ward Smith's Rumney guide lists it as having two such pieces) . It does make the route feel a little runout without it.

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : l. Sleepy Hollow : The Lone Ranger (5.3 PG13)
By: dragons When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: I didn't think it was too dirty/grassy, but then I had just led "Pfui Teufel", which was extremely grassy and dirty at the top - much worse than what I found here.

The route is covered with a lot of lichen, but otherwise the holds are reasonably clean. About halfway up, the wall was covered in brown lichen to the right. I stayed off that and moved up the cleanest looking surfaces. You really have to hunt for pro as you approach the top, but fortunately the climbing is easy enough that yo... more >>

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5)
By: dragons When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: 5'0" here. I led P2 today, after taking beta photos of gear placements when following my partner (I've uploaded one for those who may be interested).

I was super-cautious on this route because of the broken ankle report (thanks to Stephanie for the warning). There's a decent toehold near the initial piton, and a couple similar sized holds up about 5 to 6 feet left of that, close to the slot where I put a Metolius Master Cam 0. Had to pull up to check that it fit okay... and it was set perfectly... more >>

Location: MA : Tyngsborough Quarry
By: dragons When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Just a couple of things. At this time, you can't see the quarry using Google Streetview, even though you can see the wall from the street when you pull over to the little dirt pull-out. Here's a more accurate location for the dirt pull-out

I only saw tw... more >>

Location: MA : Tyngsborough Quarry : Photo
By: dragons When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I added the route Tyng-a-ling - - which is right near where you're standing in this photo (I made up the name since I don't know of any climbing history for this little quarry). I just climbed it today. Fun! Too bad there's not more.

If anyone knows of any climbing history for this area, please post.

Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : Tarzan (5.8+) : Photo
By: dragons When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: According to Boston Rocks 2nd ed, p 61, this is Fool on a Hill (5.9).

Location: MA : Denrock : Petroleum Base Buttress : Chossy's Nice Twin (5.7) : Photo
By: dragons When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: This route appears to be listed as "North End Crack" in Boston Rocks 2nd ed. Are they one and the same?

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