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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Tuesday Afternoon (5.11)
By: Dr. Evil When: 10 minutes ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The flake at the roof appears to be gone now. I'm not sure how hard the crux is now (I'm not good at roof climbs) but it seems hard for 11.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm, I guess I'm the odd one out here. I didn't think this route was very good, mainly because I found it quite chossy. A lot of key holds on the route are not fully attached or are hollow. Maybe it will clean up with time.
The best part was seeing the antique pitons on an old aid line just right of the top of this route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb currently has a spinner bolt - the last bolt before the anchor.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dead Can Dance (5.10a)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb currently has a spinner bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dead Again (5.10b)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb currently has a couple spinner bolts.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Pink Laurel (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't quite agree that this is a classic - at least at the moment, it is rather mossy and slimy. Maybe in a drier year it's a classic.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, the first two pitches of this route aren't junk - they're fun Gunks 5.3 and worth doing! You can easily string together the first two pitches to the GT ledge if you have double ropes.
Overall, a good route.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Turkey Shoot (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is classic. Definitely worth doing.
We had no problems placing Camalots #4, #5, and #6 on this route. If you don't like runouts, bring the big gear.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Great White Crime (5.11b)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is fun - short but sweet - and it absolutely eats nuts and small cams. There are lots of rests/stances to place gear.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Gobbler's Grunt (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is brilliant with the handcrack variation to the first pitch - thanks to everyone here for recommending it. Every pitch on this climb is super fun. The gear is excellent as well.
A comment on this first pitch: to me, the roof did not feel like the crux; I was surprised that it felt relatively easy. I thought that the wide parts of the crack down low (before the roof) and above the roof felt harder. I have small hands, and sections of these cracks were wider than fist for me... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Hummingbird Way aka Snively... (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has great rock, is a beautiful line, and is definitely wide.
As usual, I forgot that having small hands makes wide cracks feel hard: I found few hand jams on this route, and not so many fists either. If your hands are gigantic, this is the route for you. If you have small hands and are generally terrified of wide cracks (like me) you'll be happy with some big gear. We placed the two biggest curve hexes and the #3, #3.5, #4, #5, and #6 Camalots on both p... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Ten Years After (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great, fun route, which felt easier than it looked from below.
It is easy to do this route in one pitch if you belay from the top. Stopping at the bolted anchor just feels like a bummer - you want to keep going in this beautiful corner.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm. I'm a bit confused about the discussion here. We followed almost exactly the route description given here, which (in my opinion) matches the topo for Lost in Space Direct in Hubbel's book almost exactly. Well, Hubbel's topos are a bit hard to read, but the major features do match.
We did the ascending part of the route in 3 pitches with a 60-m rope. The first belay was above the 5.7 corner, as described here, at the height of the walk-off ledge, just up and right from a small tree. For th... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Organ Pipes (5.6)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great climb. The first part is definitely insecure and weird. With a 60 m rope you can do most of this in one long pitch, ending at a comfortable ledge just below the 3 exit cracks. We did the 8 finish and it was stellar.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Tilted Mitten (5.8)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, this is a great climb - all the pitches are fun, the climbing is interesting and varied. The chimney on the last pitch is amazing. We did the 7 variation on the first pitch and enjoyed it.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Sunset Arete (5.6)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We started the climb very low, which made the initial traverse quite easy. On the upper part of the pitch, we took the right hand line up the crack. This definitely felt exciting, especially on the licheny, sandy rock.
The climb is worth doing, the moves are fun.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Gravity's Rainbow (WI5 M3+)
By: Dr. Evil When: Dec 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beta on anchors/descent of Gravity's Rainbow: there is a decent anchor in the rock on the climber's left, at the top of the ice (after the 3d pitch of climbing). Currently the anchor is a slung block and 2 pitons with relatively new cord tying it all together.
From this anchor rappel 55 m directly down the climb to another rock anchor just to the (climber's) right of the ice. This anchor is currently 1 block and 2 pitons with relatively new cord.
From here, you can do a rope-stretching 60 m r... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : US Highway 550 : Gravity's Rainbow (WI5 M3+)
By: Dr. Evil When: Dec 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Gravity's Rainbow today and it is in fat. (See photo.)
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire : North East Ridge (5.7)
By: Dr. Evil When: Dec 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route.
People will tell you to do the Kain route before the NE ridge, so you are familiar with the descent. The party we met who ignored this advice and wound up spending 2 nights on the spire can confirm that this is good advice.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire : McTech Arete (5.10-)
By: Dr. Evil When: Dec 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is definitely not an old-school 5.10. The crux protects very well and has tons of rests, so it feels easy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: Dr. Evil When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are no wasps on the route as of today.
Gear beta: there are two great yellow Alien placements just before the crux 2nd pitch roof.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Dr. Evil When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, and easier than I was expecting. I did much more chimneying than using pure offwidth technique.
Gear beta: a green Big Bro fits well in the wide section.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you have small hands you may find the P1 crux rattly and spooky.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is currently a fixed nut protecting the crux. The nut looks welded into the crack; I fell on it and it held.
Here's some beta on the crux moves: the description/topo in the Rossiter book makes you think you should climb the face right of the corner. However, it is easier to climb up the corner, with one foot on each side of the corner. (Doing the crux this way has the advantage that you can inspect the nut in the corner before committing. The commenters on this page who refer to... more >>
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Assembly Line (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lovely jamming experience on the first pitch, then easier but still fun upper pitches. Watch out for the attack of the killer swarming insects (termites?) on the summit.
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