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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Absolution (5.11d)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Placing a shoulder-length sling on the second bolt will allow you to clip it from a good hold.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Smack That Bitch Up (5.11c)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting over the roof is quite height-dependent. The crux is clipping above the roof. If you blow the cli,p you'll smash into the slab below.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Herb-A-Med-Veg-A-Matic (5.11b)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're short (I'm 5'6"), placing the draw on the third bolt above the ledge is scary. It's not just a 5.6 runout for someone of my height. To reach the bolt, I had to climb quite a bit above the ledge and do 10- slab moves using suspect, fractured rock for handholds. If you fell, you would not only hit the ledge, there's groundfall potential if you then bounced off the ledge.
I placed a shoulder-length runner on that bolt in addition to the draw to allow clipping from a safe stance. I sugges... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Tombstone Crack (5.8)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is incredibly fun and interesting if you like chimney climbing. It can be done in one long pitch to the top with a 60 m rope.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Nessun Dorma (5.10)
By: Dr. Evil When: Oct 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb now has a second pitch. Does anyone know about this extension? How hard is it?
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Ptarmigan Creek Area : Greg's Cliff : This Way or That (5.10b/c)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is very fun but definitely reachy - if you're short, it will feel harder.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Phat City : Sweaty Betty (5.10d)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing on this route is very fun. Unfortunately, at least when I climbed it, it was super dirty. There was guano, sand, and lichen all over at the bottom of the route. Worth doing if clean.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : I'll be Black (5.10b)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is amazingly fun. Must do.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek : Sunset Cliff : Sunset Crack (5.8)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note that this climb is right of I'll Be Black, not left of it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo... : The Homesteader (5.11d)
By: Dr. Evil When: Apr 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The lower jug haul on this route is lots of fun, but I am puzzled about how to pull the upper bulge right above the ledge. It seemed quite a bit harder than 11d. What am I missing?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo... : Howl Of A Hungry Cat (5.10d)
By: Dr. Evil When: Apr 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although this climb is short, it has really fun moves. A little face climbing, a little crack climbing, a little roof.
When I was on this climb yesterday, someone inside the crack in the middle section hissed at me. Maybe a bat?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : P38 (5.10b PG13)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jan 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing on this route is super fun.
I would call this route very well protected. What the description calls a runout move after the traverse can be protected well by a small nut, and the climbing is pretty easy at that point. The actual 10 climbing can be sewn up with small-medium nuts.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Isn't Life Strange (5.11c)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jan 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route. The crux roofs remind me of the Gunks.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Tuesday Afternoon (5.11)
By: Dr. Evil When: Dec 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The flake at the roof appears to be gone now. I'm not sure how hard the crux is now (I'm not good at roof climbs), but it seems hard for 11.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Talking Out Of Turn (5.10)
By: Dr. Evil When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm, I guess I'm the odd one out here. I didn't think this route was very good, mainly because I found it quite chossy. A lot of key holds on the route are not fully attached or are hollow. Maybe it will clean up with time.
The best part was seeing the antique pitons on an old aid line just right of the top of this route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb currently has a spinner bolt - the last bolt before the anchor.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dead Can Dance (5.10a)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb currently has a spinner bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dead Again (5.10b)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb currently has a couple spinner bolts.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Pink Laurel (5.9)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't quite agree that this is a classic - at least at the moment, it is rather mossy and slimy. Maybe in a drier year it's a classic.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: Dr. Evil When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, the first two pitches of this route aren't junk - they're fun Gunks 5.3 and worth doing! You can easily string together the first two pitches to the GT ledge if you have double ropes.
Overall, a good route.
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