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Member Since: Apr 28, 2002
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Dr. Dan

Point Rank: # 6,511
Total Points: 75
Last Year: 20
Last 30 Days: 16
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dr. Dan been climbing?










Contributions


All 58 | Routes | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 27 | Posts | Stars 15 | Ratings 6
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Right 2 routes in Box Canyon.  BS Too and Step Rig...

Right 2 routes in Box Canyon. BS Too and Step Right are a little to the left of this block.

CO : Steamboat Springs : ... : Box Canyon

Jul 17, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Left 3 routes in Box Canyon.

Left 3 routes in Box Canyon.

CO : Steamboat Springs : ... : Box Canyon

Jul 17, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Dr. Dan Climbing through the crux on P2

Dr. Dan Climbing through the crux on P2

NV : Red Rock : ... : Triassic Sands (5.10)

Jul 17, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: FFA by Dr. Dan of MPO (Mo's Pissed Off), 12a/b, AK...

FFA by Dr. Dan of MPO (Mo's Pissed Off), 12a/b, AKA Unknown Name. 2004.

CO : Steamboat Springs : ... : Hole in the Wall Canyon

Sep 11, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Topo photo of the full lines on the Shield.  Grade...

Topo photo of the full lines on the Shield. Grades vary a little from route descriptions, but in the ball park.

CO : Steamboat Springs : ... : Hole in the Wall Canyon

Sep 11, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: These are the full lines on the Shield.

These are the full lines on the Shield.

CO : Steamboat Springs : ... : Hole in the Wall Canyon

Sep 11, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: P5 of North Ridge/North Face variation. Climbed 7/...

P5 of North Ridge/North Face variation. Climbed 7/7/04.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : North Ridge (5.6)

Jul 9, 2004

Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of route variation for North Ridge/North Fac...

Photo of route variation for North Ridge/North Face.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : North Ridge (5.6)

Jul 9, 2004

Rock Climbing Photo: 06/24/2004. Crew approaching the top of P2 on Comi...

06/24/2004. Crew approaching the top of P2 on Comic Relief.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Comic Relief (5.10)

Jun 25, 2004

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : North of Town : Box Canyon : BS Too? (5.8)
By: Dr. Dan When: Jul 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: While I did add the bolts leading up to the cracks, they were placed as part of the Step Right route. It was climbed previously by many people including Higbee, Rusk, Varco, Gilmore. This year the bats seemed to have found a new home, and it is reasonably clean. Might have to change the name from BS (Bat Shit) Too.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Rad Cliff : The Chamber of Secrets (5.7) : Photo
By: Dr. Dan When: Apr 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Just led the 1st 3 pitches of Triassic Sands (10+) and decided to do something mellow. Hiked around to this mellow sounding 5.7, not. Better have your major 5.7 mojo going on this one. Never climbed a climb that "wasn't worth it", but probably won't be coming back to this one soon.3 #3's and 3 #2's are nice to have.


Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : North of Town : Box Canyon
By: Dr. Dan When: Jun 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: There are 6 bolted routes in Box (7 if you count the bolts to the crack route), and they are pretty good climbing. Was going to qualify that by saying "for Routt county", but they are in general fun routes and good climbing. There are two newer routes just to the left of Steel Nuts. I believe these are courtesy of Jackie K. (thanks). The furthest left is 10something with a cool committing crux. The one just right of this goes through a decent roof on small crimps and poor feet and felt at least... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Grumpy Old Men (5.10b)
By: Dr. Dan When: May 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: 1st and 2nd pitches both very fun and very different character. Both pitches are well protected. You do need to pull the little roof on P2 in order to clip the bolt, and it is not visible from below, but this is rock climbing.


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : Misfit Prophets (5.10c/d)
By: Dr. Dan When: May 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed 5/5. I think this climb is P1, but you have to like tough, loose slab with tricky hands, underlings and poor feet. I onsighted both Harbinger (11b) and this pitch, and P1 of Misfit is harder (10d-11a). P2&3 are fun and easy, with bomber holds, edges and pretty much typical Prophecy climbing.

Climbed Grumpy Old Men (10b) immediately after Misfit and it was much easier.


Location: UT : Saint George : Cougar Cliffs : Heaven's a Lie (5.11c)
By: Dr. Dan When: Nov 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: P1 of Heaven is a Lie has the easiest start of any of the 3 routes. Crux is 11c (but easier than route on far right). Upper pitch is fun, steep with good hands. Liked P2 on Forsaken better, but both fun sustained climbing.


Location: UT : Saint George : Cougar Cliffs : Forsaken (5.11a)
By: Dr. Dan When: Nov 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Here is the skinny as of 11/18/2014. There are 3 routes bolted from the bottom to the mid station and 2 routes to the top.
Routes from right to left:
1) Starts on horizontal bars through overhang to decent 10 moves to very, very thin, shallow pockets (?11d-12). 1st bolt is at 12 feet just over the cave moves. Crux is the thin section and is well bolted, but very challenging (for me). Climbing gets easier after the thin crux. If you want to climb to the top via P2 of the other routes you wil... more >>


Location: CO : Steamboat Springs : North of Town : Hole in the Wall Canyon : Shield of the Titans : MPO (Mo's Pissed Off) (5.12a/b)
By: Dr. Dan When: Sep 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This route is called MPO (Mo's Pissed Off). The story is I was bolting it solo and stayed out way too late and my wife, Mo, was on the phone to SAR when I walked in the door.
Done as one pitch this is long hard route. The bottom half to the midway anchor is 11-. After mid-way, the climbing is straightforward until you reach a bulge and the bolts veer right. If you go off line to the up-left it is easy 10, but if you go right out over the bulge it involves a series (about 5) physical and prec... more >>


Location: UT : Saint George : Prophesy Wall : The Roofs of Jericho (5.10c)
By: Dr. Dan When: Apr 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Led this route 2005, 2007, 2009 and today, 4/23/2012. There are definitely a few holds missing on roof1 making it more sequnce dependent, but I still think 10c is still accurate. I also led the single pitch immediately to left of P1 and thought that pitch was 10d.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.9-)
By: Dr. Dan When: Aug 19, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Lead this route clean OS yesterday. Didn't have the guidebook and had no idea what route I was on until today. It was one of the best moderate routes I have done in Eldo. Compares with the upper part of P1 on Werksupp, but a grade or so harder. Take a blue and yellow Alien. The yellow fit perfectly in the upper part of the final crux pocket and made me braver. Our 70m rope made it just to the deck. Also, very wet at the base of the climb and lots of wasps.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10)
By: Dr. Dan When: Apr 22, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Have done this route four times now. It is a bunch of good climbing with a very short approach. Would agree P1 is no harder than 9+, but a 3.5 is nice and other than one wide move is not OW. P2 is just fun made more interesting with the bolt slab problem and a very secure roof (#2 BD cam) to move through. P3 is the most challenging climbing at 10a/b. Good to bring a bunch of finger and small hand sizes for P3, but the wide crack near the top will happily take a #3.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: Dr. Dan When: Sep 4, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: [Climbed] the route yesterday in beautiful fall/summer conditions. A gift [of] a day. P2-4 were 5*. Led P3 and would agree that both P3 and P4 are equally challenging, you just work harder on P3. Don't think P3 is just about the [squeeze] or that P4 is just about the 10b crux, they are both solid from the deck to the [anchor]. FIXED Gear: There are 2 Met #4 in the [squeeze]. The first is about 15 feet up and is in good shape. The 2nd #4 is near the top of the [squeeze] and is t... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Dr. Dan When: Jul 9, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Went up to do Syke's, but there was a very slow party on the route so decided to see if we could make the North Ridge interesting. The route we did follows an obvious weakness and broken crack system from the bottom to the top (see picture below). It is a good option if Sykes' isn't available and you are not feeling 5.11 or 5.6.

We did the climb in 5 long pitches (all 185-200 ft), but it is probably a good idea to break up P1 and P5 in to 2 pitches each due to rope drag. P1 was done as one d... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Dr. Dan When: Jun 25, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed Comic Relief in amazingly good weather 6/24/04. Linked P1+P2 which is definitely the way to go. Makes for a sustained 185 ft 10+ pitch. Things to remember. Double sling at the end of P1 to reduce rope drag and listen to the beta about bringing lots of small hand and finger pieces. P1 and P2 are mostly small hands and fingers. Ran out of appropriate pro which led to a run out of about 20 feet near the top of P2 before getting a nice green cam in. The Black Corner is a worth doing. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Fellow (5.12a)
By: Dr. Dan When: Feb 27, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Probably a little late, but there is a good fixed pin in the vertical seam going up to the roof that is bomber (would be a nasty swing if you came off above the roof). There is a fixed nut with a sling about 8 feet to the right after you get over the roof. There is fixed gear right below the second roof.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a)
By: Dr. Dan When: Feb 27, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I am no Shelf Road veteran, but the only climb in the 11 range on this section has to be Muscle Beach. It has its own start in an irregular crack just left of Afterburner. Once through the crack it works straight up on smoother rock on some steep holds and then angles right on the slightly overhanging bulge. It is an excellent route, but rather than 11b/c it felt more like 11a.


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