Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
My on sight of Touch and Go, Joshua Tree


Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: Jan 17, 2012
Contact Dpurf


Point Rank: # 1,274
Total Points: 488
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
41 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dpurf been climbing?










Contributions


All 579 | Routes 20 | Areas 3 | Photos 44 | Page Improvements | Comments 23 | Posts 61 | Stars 253 | Ratings 175

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : The Short Tour (5.10-) : Photo
By: Dpurf When: Sep 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Why is this top rope through the anchors and not through the draws that are hanging from the anchors. This is very poor form.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Relampago (5.10c)
By: Dpurf When: Dec 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Did not like this one. Not sure why I had to climb the fin or the face when I could just go up the easy stuff in the corner.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Whiplash (5.10b)
By: Dpurf When: Nov 23, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I am with Kara N on which crack to climb. Tony, the one you are talking about is further to the right. The one Kara and I are talking about are 2-3 feet apart. So, I get to the base of the climb and there are 2 cracks. The left is thin hands and more of a layback. The one of the right hands and more of a roof and more interesting. Now it looks like all the photos are of the one on the left. So I guess I did the wrong climb. But it was fun. Great hands the whole 10 feet. I think I place... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Crack Love III (5.10c)
By: Dpurf When: Jul 28, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I have to agree with Tony on the rating. Also to make it a better climb, start with Crack Love instead of going right to Crack Love II. I did it the way of Crack Love II and place a piece high in it before moving to the left. This may have made is easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Crack Love (5.10a)
By: Dpurf When: Jul 28, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: This is the best of the 3, Crack of Love. Fun moves all the way. As for the rating it is no more than a 5.9, and that is comparing other 5.9 trad climbs in the canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c)
By: Dpurf When: Jul 20, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I have to say the bird shit or whatever it is takes away from the great climbing. The stuck cam (Trango) is still there.

Now from gathering all the beta from the post above, I was going to avoid the wide crack not try to do any off widthing. Big mistake for me. After a few down climbs and takes, I had to get in there to move up. For the start of the wide crack I did lay it back, but then moved in with a knee to set up for the good jams above. I did clip the pin, but I don't think it was n... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Slot Machine (5.9)
By: Dpurf When: Jul 17, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: The Guide book does not show it, but someone has added a rap rings to the Tree at the top of the 2nd and also to the tree a top the 1st.

**** Please use the walk off *****

If you rap you will be pissing off the line people coming up. The walk off is nice and easy. From the top of the climb move back and left and you can't miss the trail. It will take you right back to the base of the climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : East Ridge (5.10)
By: Dpurf When: Jun 9, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: My partner and I did this route then rap to the Crow's Nest to do the West Overhang. This made for a great day of climbing. We did the East Ridge in 3 pitches. The first pitch up to the 2 bolt belay for the start of the orig 3rd pitch. We both thought this was the crux pitch of the climb. I would say 10+ on this pitch. The jams are sharp and painful and not on all that great of feet. It was warm out, too, so that made thing a little greasy. The start of the orig 3rd or our 2nd pitch I bel... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Morongo Man Cliffs : Morongo Man (5.11c) : Photo
By: Dpurf When: May 7, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like you are getting a great belay there

???


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Unnamed twin crack L of Dou... (5.11+)
By: Dpurf When: May 3, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Whale's back is on Technicolor wall and it is a good one.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Unnamed 5.10 ( 12) - popula... (5.10)
By: Dpurf When: May 2, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: The pro list above is wrong. If you bring a #2 BD it is going to stay on your harness. The smallest piece you want is a #3 BD or 3.5 WC And you are going to need a few of them. I did place a #4 WC and and old 3.5 BD on this to. You are going to get afternoon sun on this route as well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Two Timer (5.10d)
By: Dpurf When: Apr 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I am not sure I would go heavy on the 2 2.5. You are going to need more 3" then 2" stuff. Also at lease one if 2 BD #5 comes in handy on the ow flake. The #4 tips out. This is what I would take if I do it again. 2 .75 BD, 3 #2 BD, 4 #3 BD, 1 #4 WC and 2 #5 BD. And I believe it take all of a 60m rope. 70 would be better.


Location: CO : Recent Red Rocks Link-ups
By: Dpurf When: Apr 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Way to go Josh, you the man.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Tofu Crack (5.10)
By: Dpurf When: Apr 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: A 70m rope gets you to the ground. 60m will not. Use the seam, it makes it easier. Fun climb. If you are looking for shade, this is the place.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Top Sirloin (5.11)
By: Dpurf When: Apr 30, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: What a great climb and the one thing that kept going through my head was 'This crack is going to get bigger up there, it's got to'. But it never does. Thin Hands forever.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Think Pink (5.11a)
By: Dpurf When: Mar 19, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I would not call this a Classic, because of the Sh*t rock at the start. But it is a very good climb and one you should do. The rating on this climb is all based on hand size. Big hands have fun. Small hands, pray to stay in, average hands, move fast through the lower part of the crack. And for the guy who is looking for a 2.5 BD, there is one out there. It is call a 3.0 WC Friend. It works great.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Dpurf When: Nov 23, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Just did this route for the first time on Nov 22 2006. What a great climbing, and we missed the 2nd pitch, and it was still great. There was 3 of us, and all of us thought the crux pitch was easier than the crux of the 1st pitch. But we all love crack climbing. If your crack skill are up to date, then the 4th is no issue. I do have to say that # 3 WC Friends are the way to go on the 4th. BD #3 are too big for the crack and BD #2 are too small. Oh and you should link the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Fat Cat (5.11-)
By: Dpurf When: Sep 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I thought getting into the pod was a bit tricky. After that fight the pump.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Unnamed 5.10 -Route 60 (5.10)
By: Dpurf When: Sep 22, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Hands oh wait thin hands in a left facing corner. Some what hard start with thin hand or a layback to get you through it. It opens up as you go up.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: Dpurf When: Feb 28, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This climb is great for a little thrill. I did not find the climbing that difficult. It is a head crux for sure. Once you are out of the cracks and onto the face/lip its clissic Tahquitz/Suicide slab climbing. The bolts are well spaced. Belay at the tree. It is 2 80ft rap to the ground. Move right along the ledge to a 2 bolts anchor. Then there is another 2 bolt anchor in the middle of the slab.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face
By: Dpurf When: Feb 23, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: I think the Description needs a bit more.

The West Face From the left side start with the Trought (5.4) and moves to the right and around to the Edge (5.11a). Most of the route lead to Lunch Ledge, then up to the top from there. Lunch Ledge is a ledge with a pine tree in it about 200 fett above Lunch Rock. The West Face has a number of moderate climbs on and is very popular.

The Descent is via the Friction Route (4th Class but is hard to find).

The approach is from the Climber trail to Lu... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Dpurf When: Feb 21, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Andy, I believe you are right about the crux. The move over to the 2 bolt belay and then the frist move onto the second seen to be the hardest bit for me. The Chimney exit could be a head crux, because there is some air under you. But the hand jam is bomber and feet I thought to be good.

Dave


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Dpurf When: Feb 9, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: FA - Royal Robins. The first 5.9 in the country, it a classic and must do. For the 2nd pitch there is a number of ways to get through it. The layback options, less secure and harder to place gear, not the options I would take. The next option is to stem it in the wide section then finish with your crack climbing skills. Or just grovel up the offwidth, it secure and is very short.