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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road
By: Doug Lintz When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul,
Shelf is climbable year-round, has convenient camping, easy approaches, and hundreds of routes from easy to really hard (the bulk of which fall into the moderate range 5.8 to 5.11)....and yes many of them are "well" equipped...even a few cracks. Did I mention that many of the routes are really really good?
Given all that it's no surprise that Shelf is popular. It can be crowded, but often that's because people congregate on the classic moderates. It's not hard to find solitude i... more >>
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Sour Girl (5.10a)
By: Doug Lintz When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This large boulder is on the left side of the road as you approach from the campsites. Sour Girl has fixed draws and anchor biners...all you need is a rope.
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Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : Quarry Boulder
By: Doug Lintz When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Coner, could you move the two pics you posted in this area to the new East Quarry Boulder area? It might reduce confusion. Make sure to post some pics when you send the hard line on the Quarry Boulder.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Vault
By: Doug Lintz When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Our group saw two rattlesnakes near the base of Ewetopia last weekend, one actually spit venom on my friend's leg. Stay alert out there.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Sheer Lunacy (5.11 PG13)
By: Doug Lintz When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the anchors (shared) so far to the left it's best to belay the second from the top, otherwise cleaning the route is a PITA.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Lower Blair III, II and I : Take 5 (5.11c)
By: Doug Lintz When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great looking line. Amazing that it's gone unclimbed until now.
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Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : South Quarry Area : Sun Drop II Tower : The Tryout (5.11+)
By: Doug Lintz When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Credit for the name goes to Ben Ingman who climbed it a few years after me thinking he might have had the FA. His choice "The Tryout" is way more clever than what I came up with. Ben thought it hard .11, I thought it was 10+/11-. Tried it again last year and have to agree with him, stout moves to get it going.
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Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : South Quarry Area : Sun Drop II Tower
By: Doug Lintz When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You could do a "Needles style two person rappel" or just downclimb the 5.5 route...I'd say it's probably not even that hard. Several years ago I did find bail gear on top (2 nuts, a sling and biners).
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Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : North Quarry Area : Kanaranzi Buttress (South F... : The Squeeze (5.7)
By: Doug Lintz When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought 5.7 was pretty spot on despite my choice of footwear (Teva sandals). Definitely worth doing if you're in the area and especially if you like the wide stuff.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Doug Lintz When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did this route on June 2nd, only our party of 3 was silly enough to be on this climb...very sunny and very hot! This felt less like a technical route and more like an alpine climb despite the heat.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Lewd, Crude, and Misconstru... (5.9+)
By: Doug Lintz When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very awkward start, not a good route to lead if 5.9 is your limit.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Great Red Book Rock : Great Red Book (5.8)
By: Doug Lintz When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! The walk off is easy and this route takes everything from .3 to #3 Camalots (no need for stoppers). You could find #4 and #5 cam placements but they're not really necessary.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Photo
By: Doug Lintz When: May 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well everything's big in Texas. http://www.joe-ks.com/archives_apr2007/BigRattlesnake.htm
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Location: MN : Blue Mounds SP (Luverne) : South Quarry Area : Quarry Corner Buttress : Acute Corner (5.10c/d)
By: Doug Lintz When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the taller routes at Blue Mounds. Fun movement all the way to the top.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Flight Simulator (5.10b/c)
By: Doug Lintz When: May 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're correct Jeremy. I added this in the wrong location several years ago. Could a Mod. move this route to the actual Gem Wall area please?
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : I Claudius (5.11b) : Photo
By: Doug Lintz When: Apr 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: He didn't hit his head, but it wasn't a pretty fall either.
I come around the corner and see him fighting the hand jams. I look at his belayer who looks back at me with a smile. I ask Austin if he knows the grade of the route he's climbing, he says his belayer told him 5.9ish. I look at his belayer who continues to smile, shrugs his shoulders and says, "5.9ish or maybe 5.10ish."
I smile and quickly unpack my camera.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Affluenza (5.11c)
By: Doug Lintz When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That crux bolt sees a lot of action, it was pretty loose this weekend. Check it before committing to the moves above it.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Tired Arms Recovery Program... (5.9+)
By: Doug Lintz When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another worthy moderate with some of Shelf's sharpest rock. Plenty of bolts will keep new leaders feeling secure. To me the best part was pulling the roof above the lower anchors.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : One Inch Short (5.11c)
By: Doug Lintz When: Apr 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has its own direct start with 3 bolts just left of a small, left-facing corner/hand crack. Good holds on the upper arete easily tempt you away from the face/bolt line. Staying right of the bolts on the arete proper felt maybe 5.10a.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Doug Lintz When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good fun!! Aside from waiting 45 minutes at each belay we had a great time on this classic. All you really need is that #4 Camalot, a few mid-range cams, half-dozen draws, and some steady nerves on the airy last pitch.
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Photo
By: Doug Lintz When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Judging by the shadows that looks like evening rather than morning.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Fairfield Hill : Fairfield East : Second Helping (5.10a/b)
By: Doug Lintz When: Feb 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just curious, why the PG-13 rating?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Doug Lintz When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route, there are at least half a dozen sequences for the crux section.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animal Magnetism (5.11c)
By: Doug Lintz When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a fun route, pumpy and tricky. That big hold out left at the first crux fooled me, it felt much easier to move straight up instead of reaching out left.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Pueblo Gringos (5.10b/c)
By: Doug Lintz When: Oct 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite 10s at Shelf. Monster holds the whole way.
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