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Member Since: May 19, 2002
Last Visit: Apr 20, 2016
Contact Doug Redosh

Doug Redosh
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Point Rank: # 2,299
Total Points: 302
Last Year: 59
Last 30 Days: 1
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Redosh been climbing?










Contributions


All 258 | Routes 13 | Areas 1 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 139 | Posts 5 | Stars 47 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Banana Peel (5.7 PG13)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Some clarification because if there is not fresh chalk on the climb the easiest way could be a bit confusing to find:
Pitch 4: aim up and left on unprotected slab for the bolt that is BEFORE the corner. The finger crack traverse left above the corner has some glacial polish that is very slick for the feet (hence the climb's name?)
Pitch 5: follow easy crack up and left to alcove
Pitch 6: climb R out of alcove and continue R and up on unprotected slab (5.7) to a 3" hole (perhaps a large tricam h... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Great Wide Shark (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: Also, a 5.8 section and a 5.6 section do NOT average to 5.7 just as a 5.11 section with a 5.9 section don't average to 5.10! Grading is done for the hardest move of a climb.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Great Wide Shark (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: The block referred to above is loose and is just sitting on a ledge. My partner put a nut behind it for an anchor that got stuck, because the block moved slightly to accomodate it, then moved back. I went back the next day to remove the stopper and noticed this slight movement. It probably should NOT be trusted as an anchor, though it did hold my partner's body weight. Probably best to move up and L to the anchors atop SS Minnow (belaying there, not for TR), or up and right up an easy gully, the... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : War With A Rack (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: As of Dec. 18,2015, there is a #1 Camalot stuck in the upper crack. Leo P. thought hitting downward with a chisel might get it out but he worked on it for 15 mins or so with a nut pick.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : C. Third Triangle : The Joy of My World (is in ... (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: No glass shards as of 4 days ago, but my partner was cleaning the corner to the L and got a shard in his finger.
Fun climb, with a pumpy crux. Harder than Undisclosed Location.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : B. Second Triangle : Undisclosed Location (5.9-)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: Very fun, thin face climbing. Holds appear just when you need them. It looks blank from the ground between bolts 1 and 3, but the holds show up!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Br'er Fox (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: I felt this was 5.7+, a little harder and steeper than the 5.7 to the left.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Yellow Dog Dingo (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: P1 is 5.5.
P2 is 5.4.
The Horn Pipes variation is 5.7 and the best pitch. Nice exposure. Would use long slings on the first 2-3 bolts as well. Why no animal name for this pitch?
There is also an old piton on P1.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Toy Box (5.10c)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: 10c. The new guidebook gives this a 10a, but 2/3 of us felt that this was the hardest of the 5 climbs here. Tricky stem with thin finger holds in the crack. You have to get your left foot up pretty high.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Toy Box (5.10c) : Photo
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: I am one move below the crux, actually.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Recess (5.10c)
By: Doug Redosh When: Nov 8, 2014

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Comments: 10c/d. The new guidebook rates this, and the climb to the left, as 10a and the easiest of the 4 bolted routes. I thought this climb was the hardest, at least the pumpiest of the 5 routes currently here.


Location: CO : Silver Plume : West Slabs : Unknown 2nd 9 (5.9)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Nice pitch!! 2.5 stars! I never saw the piton. Maybe it is gone.


Location: CO : Silver Plume : West Slabs : Hwan Kap (5.9)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: The vision and the lead on this was all Leo. Thanks for the birthday greetings.
On the descent, one can unrope for all of it until just below the rap anchors. Then it is 10 feet of 5.1 slab, but with some exposure.


Location: CO : Silver Plume : West Slabs : Unknown 7+ (5.7+)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 1 is real nice. Would continue to the 2nd of 3 sets of anchors. One cannot see the 3rd set from the second set.


Location: CO : Silver Plume : West Slabs : Tin Can Arete (5.5)
By: Doug Redosh When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: Leo can take all the credit for this one. Needs a little traffic to clean it up. Would be a nice linkup with the 5.5 route below for a 5.5 trad leader.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Nurse Shark (5.9+)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: There are 2 hidden holds in the middle section. 10-.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Hammerhead (5.10a/b)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: I could not even get off the ground on this climb. Cannot comment on the upper section. No way a 9+, especially compared to the main crag at North Table.
10+ IMHO.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Sea Robin (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: It may feel like 5.8 if you just spent a week at Indian Creek. I followed this yesterday and it is strenuous. My partner, who leads 5.9 trad, even had a hard time on this. The traverse is 5.8 and the upper crack is 5.9. On the initial crack/corner, one can get some decent assist holds out to the left and up to the R up higher. 10a IMHO, especially if you compare to other crack climbs at North Table.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Finger Flatiron : Mere Wall (5.8)
By: Doug Redosh When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Did this again yesterday for the first time in 11 years. Maybe I am getting older, but first pitch seemed more like 5.7 and P2 more like 5.9.
Belay spot is at a good stance at a crack that angles up and right. The route continues left however. Once on the summit ridge, there are obvious belay slings to the right. However, if one goes left about 15 feet (4th class, exposed), the anchors for Nude Figures in a Hollow Fruit are seen, which is a cool toprope.
Would agree with Leo, 2 stars, as t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Right/Der Zerkle (5.7)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Did this yesterday. It looks like a hold might have broken off on the beginning of the second pitch, perhaps making it harder. It is unprotected 5.7 - 8 to that point where one can get a small TCU into a undercling. The layback itself is comparably easy.
Also, there is a nice new 2 bolt anchor on the summit for a 70 foot rappel. There is no need to downclimb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : East Face Left Side (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: From the cave, it is pretty obvious to head straight up the gully to a stance 20 feet below the notch for a belay. Then head up and right onto the SE face of the middle tower for a short but fun 5.5 pitch to the summit. Also one can get good pro below the bolt, which I did not see until it was 1 foot from my nose!


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : Sharpe's Arete (aka Thirsty... (5.12a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Andrew, it seems that you are referring to "Z is last...", at least your description matches that. It is listed on this website.


Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Routes : The Nautilus Cave Pitch (5.10)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: The footholds have definitely become very polished over the last few years. My feet slipped at around the first bolt, leaving me hanging by my hands a la Wil E. Coyote (sp?), giving me a nice gash in my index finger that took some direct pressure to stop!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Mungajerry (5.10a)
By: Doug Redosh When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: The top move is 10a - 10b IMHO, but I have had a few months off from climbing. I wonder if a small hold broke off between 2005 and now. Much harder than the other 9s on the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Fist or Hippo Head : East Face/Hippo Head (5.6)
By: Doug Redosh When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: We did this today in 3 pitches. Fun outing! The crux (5.7 - 5.8) is crossing a gully about 130 feet up. One can belay just before it.
We got all 3 of us on the summit. The last person had a mostly protected downclimb off the summit block by throwing the rope over a large boulder.
There is a large hex and a large tricam with some slings for a rappel anchor at the top of a 5.7 crack on the west face 15 feet south of the summit block. Look over the edge and you will see them. One can then TR th... more >>


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