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On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Doug Hemken
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Point Rank: # 72
Total Points: 5,216
Last Year: 551
Last 30 Days: 22
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










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All 2294 | Routes 145 | Areas 31 | Photos 566 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 453 | Posts 545 | Stars 472 | Ratings 76
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Pine Box (5.9+) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Yer right!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall
By: Doug Hemken When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: The top of Wiessner is not very far off of the West Bluff trail.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : The V (aka The Vulva) (5.10d)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Given Bechler's comment above, I wonder if that wasn't just Leo taking a poke at some CMC'er?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : The V (aka The Vulva) (5.10d)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Yes, it's been led.

I'm curious why you say the "old" guide "only gives first TR info." Which old guide? The Swartling guides don't give "first" anything!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : The Guillotine : Levitation Right Side (5.8 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: No typo, I disagree with The Book on this one.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Near the cut-off from the Potholes Trail?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: That is a half rope. Seems like that might have been a Marathon Day, and they were using the half in order to have less rope to pull up at the end of each pitch (it adds up when you're doing 15-20 pitches in a day!).

I'm happy twinning a half rope if the gear is bomber and the route is straight, but if the gear is faintly suspect it is better to use half-rope technique. Be aware that there is more stretch with a half than a single.

Half rope technique is only marginally of value on "Peter's.... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Can't believe you all went to the coldest area at the Lake in order to climb in the shade! You are obsessed!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: So if you look at Larry's photo-topo posted here on MP, you will see that you did it the same way he suggests.

The guidebook disagrees with a member of the FA party who usually documents things pretty carefully ... I think I'd put the guidebook aside on this one!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: It's had a name for like 30-40 years, but has been climbed by less than half a dozen people.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Upper : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: There are those who maintain that the introduction of pitons into the climbing world was the birth of "sport" climbing ...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Dodgeball (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Great route! Pitches 2 & 3 are stunning, and the rest was very nice as well!

We pulled down (but not out) on the block.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: The walk-off is a gorgeous scramble/hike ... I've done it three times. See the main "Mescalito" page.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Two Hoofers (5.12)
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: The runout is easy friction. Feel free to take along a hammer and drill and add a couple of bolts to pitch 5, or even break it up into two pitches. We ran it out because we ran out of time ....


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: Yes, that's what Nick meant. I've been resisting the urge to add this as an Area, because its nice to have a few rocks that are undescribed. (And all the access is across private property.)


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: Yes!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Boomtown
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: These coordinates for Boomtown put it on the north side of the South Bluff. A better guess would be closer to 16 T 279479 4808452 or N43.39653 W89.72302. Nick's coordinates for "Dark Horse", right next door, are reasonably accurate. These two areas should be merged.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Dark Horse Area
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: Snowshoed past "Dark Horse" on the way out to Devils Nose, starting from the end of Burma Road. "Dark Horse" is on the south side of the flat top of the South Bluff.

It is almost due north of the end of Halweg Road.

I'm not much a of judge of bouldering potential, but it looks like there should be over a half dozen problem among these rocks.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 13, 2012

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Comments: Not everyone is free climbing, for one thing.

The party at the top of p1 is using an alternate belay, good for them!

Love the big loop under the second at the end of overhang!

Hard to tell if the pair at the top of p3 is going up or coming down, everyone in between has packs so they are probably going up for the day.

Beautiful route ....


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Nice! You could probably just park in that pull-out, too. Where does that bring you up in relation to the talus field: east, west, or center?

I found the coordinates posted at the top of this page to be fairly accurate, so if you have a GPS receiver its probably easiest walking to head up the Reserve trail and come in from the top.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : The Turret : Turret (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Gear to about 2 inches.

As usual, the crux is at the start. It protects well. Just beyond, there is an ancient piton left of the corner. From there, the climbing is fairly easy although the best holds will not be obvious. There are also 1 - 2 strategic horizontal seams for gear that are hard to spot from the ground.

Hard to set a nice TR on this one: sling the block or use a good horizontal 4 feet down. Either way, a TR kind of cheats the climber of the last satisfying move.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : The Reserve
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Except for the first 300-400 yards from the boat landing parking lot, there is now a worn user trail out to the Reserve. In late autumn and early winter, it may be obscured by fallen oak leaves, but look for the depression where many feet have packed the earth. The trail occasionally disappears for 15-20 yards at a time where the ground is rocky or dead trees have fallen across, but reappears soon.

Beyond the Reserve, the line of least effort is up on the plateau where the walking is easy and... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: If it was fun, you should definitely give it a name and add it to the database. Around here, giving a route a name is not necessarily tightly connected with doing a first ascent.

I don't recall personally seeing anyone climb this, but I'd be extremely surprised if it has *never* been done before.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Lincoln's Chai...
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 17, 2012

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Comments: Yet another way to find this formation is to come in by Misery Rocks, drop down to the base of the Pantry by Special K Pillar, and cross the gully/boulder field to the south.

The advantage of this is that all but 150 feet is on well-worn user trails.

And Lincoln's Chair is small enough that you'll probably want to climb on some of these other formations anyway.


Location: WI : Willow River State Park
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Randy! You should look at some of the other property maps, too. I think Interstate is also no problem for climbing?


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