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On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Doug Hemken


Point Rank: # 80
Total Points: 4,280
Last Year: 511
Last 30 Days: 178
155 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All (1958) | Routes (130) | Areas (25) | Photos (437) | Comments (420) | Posts (450) | Stars (428) | Ratings (68)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Picnic Wall : No Picnic (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: The rest of us looked at that heel-hook, and then slapped ourselves on the forehead ... why didn't *I* think of that?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area : Lost in the Woods (Unnamed ... (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: So we'll re-sort it to the R of Lost Face Finger Crack ...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : A Cheval (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Like Nick says, keep one hand on the arete. It's a little - but not too - contrived. Climbs better than it looks, except for the very last move.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney : Homo Erectus (5.10+ R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: New to me. I'd believe it's an FA!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney : Homo Erectus (5.10+ R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: That's what I'm asking?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney : Homo Erectus (5.10+ R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: To the right of S&M route #42?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area : Crabby Appleton (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: busy sorting the good from the bad ...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : No Stranger to the Fist (5.12d)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: I have a vague memory of the 5.8 var being stout but not impossible, on sight.

No information on "No Stranger" in the Extremist's Guide ....


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: It is also possible to start "Fritz" from where the #2 arrow is.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : In the Heat of the Sun (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: Not that contrived, actually. Except for my self-imposed confusion about whether or not to use the edges of the face, it flowed pretty well. A good climber could probably do it straight up, too.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : In the Heat of the Sun (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Standard rack???? Didn't look like much gear to me ....

I ended up grabbing each edge of the face once.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : Rainman (5.10b R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Wow! Pulling through that roof it was not at all obvious where to go. A sequence of small crimps hidden in plain view, classic Lake!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Monolith Blocks
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: Sadly, the Monolith overlook seems to be THE most popular place for hikers to dump trash down the crevices in the rock.

If hikers want to trash hiking areas, that is their business. But when hikers trash climbing areas, that becomes our business. Right now (2012), the climbing areas are generally the cleanest user areas in the Park. Help keep it that way, and bring along a trash bag when you visit the Monolith Blocks and other areas.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Monolith Blocks : Rainbow Crack (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: Went back and did this one a second time. It is possible to avoid most of the offwidth moves at the top, if you find just the right face holds. In that case, this might be more of a 5.8 than 5.9.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Monolith Blocks : Thumbs of Steel (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 4, 2012

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Comments: Very pretty moves. I think I liked this one the best, of the routes here.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : East Comfort Route (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: This is the same as the "East Dihedral". Because Tom misnamed it, things have since gotten duplicated. The photos make it clear.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Step-Across (5.6 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: At the crux you can bail to the right. Jam up between the namesake pine tree and the rock, then move back left to the top of the route.

Or just bail to "Pine Tree Dihedral".

A brief shower induced us to look around for options ....


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Tomahawk Rocks : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: The name given is clear when this rock is viewed from the South, although a little pine tree is beginning to obscure that view.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Tomahawk Rocks : Puzzlement (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: Led this with gear to 2 inches ... barely adequate. This would be a comfortable lead if I could remember to bring the big gear next time.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Monolith Blocks : Rainbow Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: I was wandering around last winter looking for animal tracks and stumbled on this, then looked it up in Swartling & Mayer. Just yards off the main trail, and its practically a level walk to the base of the route! Needless to say, I've been psyched to get on it ever since.

I thought the crux would be low, but it turned out its up high.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Carl, I'm amazed ...

Chris, Grabill was standing closer to the N end of the prairie dog town, so if you were trying to copy him ....


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Birthday Rocks : The Right Twin (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: The gear gets tricky as you move past the ancient pitons (don't trust those!) and into the crux. The upper gear is okay, but will cost you a little thought and finagling.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Birthday Rocks : Mitzvah (5.7+)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: A little contrived, but just consider it an exercise in good posture to keep your back off the chimney.

Actually, a pretty fun route.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Birthday Rocks : Mitzvah (5.7+)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: I think Burt has renamed this route "Bat mitzvah"! Andy, you only have yourself to blame!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Birthday Rocks : Flying Delorean (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: Very nice moves! A little technique, a little faith, and a great hold just past each delicate move.

Gear: it's not plug-and-go, but with patience and the right gear (mostly finger sized nuts and cams, with one fist-sized cam) it can be sown up. Mike S. & I used the smallest ballnut (we each led). There is also some easy-to-place side-gear.


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