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On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 71
Total Points: 4,770
Last Year: 850
Last 30 Days: 59
174 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2127 | Routes 139 | Areas 26 | Photos 509 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 433 | Posts 497 | Stars 447 | Ratings 72
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : The Turret : Turret (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Gear to about 2 inches.

As usual, the crux is at the start. It protects well. Just beyond, there is an ancient piton left of the corner. From there, the climbing is fairly easy although the best holds will not be obvious. There are also 1 - 2 strategic horizontal seams for gear that are hard to spot from the ground.

Hard to set a nice TR on this one: sling the block or use a good horizontal 4 feet down. Either way, a TR kind of cheats the climber of the last satisfying move.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : The Reserve
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 26, 2012

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Comments: Except for the first 300-400 yards from the boat landing parking lot, there is now a worn user trail out to the Reserve. In late autumn and early winter, it may be obscured by fallen oak leaves, but look for the depression where many feet have packed the earth. The trail occasionally disappears for 15-20 yards at a time where the ground is rocky or dead trees have fallen across, but reappears soon.

Beyond the Reserve, the line of least effort is up on the plateau where the walking is easy and... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: If it was fun, you should definitely give it a name and add it to the database. Around here, giving a route a name is not necessarily tightly connected with doing a first ascent.

I don't recall personally seeing anyone climb this, but I'd be extremely surprised if it has *never* been done before.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Lincoln's Chai...
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 17, 2012

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Comments: Yet another way to find this formation is to come in by Misery Rocks, drop down to the base of the Pantry by Special K Pillar, and cross the gully/boulder field to the south.

The advantage of this is that all but 150 feet is on well-worn user trails.

And Lincoln's Chair is small enough that you'll probably want to climb on some of these other formations anyway.


Location: WI : Willow River State Park
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Randy! You should look at some of the other property maps, too. I think Interstate is also no problem for climbing?


Location: WI : Willow River State Park
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Am I right in thinking the new hunting proposal (extended seasons) won't affect climbing here much?

dnr.wi.gov/topic/parks/hunt/do...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : The Guillotine : Annie's Overhang (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 28, 2012

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Comments: The first little nut is shallow, but after that the gear is great. The crux is probably height/wingspan dependent.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : White Wall : Aku Aku (5.7 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: Nice!

Oddly enough, I think the dead tree stump actually makes this a stronger photo: it emphasizes the angle of the rock and the line of the climber!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : White Wall : Unsatisfactorily (5.6) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: The left-hand crack.

Actually, the most fun *lead* climb here is to start in the left crack, then switch to the right crack at mid-height.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 3, 2012

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Comments: Two more you need to add to the database!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : The Pantry : K2 (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: I'd say the first couple of moves is the crux. Probably an OK lead with side gear, but I didn't actually test that theory.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : Pigeon Roof (5.6) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 12, 2012

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Comments: I like the body language in this photo!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney : Modern Life is Rubbish (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 12, 2012

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Comments: The final moves are a hoot, more fun than it looks.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Great Tower (M... : Picnic Wall : No Picnic (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: The rest of us looked at that heel-hook, and then slapped ourselves on the forehead ... why didn't *I* think of that?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area : Lost in the Woods (Unnamed ... (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 8, 2012

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Comments: So we'll re-sort it to the R of Lost Face Finger Crack ...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : A Cheval (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 7, 2012

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Comments: Like Nick says, keep one hand on the arete. It's a little - but not too - contrived. Climbs better than it looks, except for the very last move.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney : Homo Erectus (5.10+ R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: New to me. I'd believe it's an FA!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney : Homo Erectus (5.10+ R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: That's what I'm asking?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Big Toe to Great Chimney : Homo Erectus (5.10+ R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: To the right of S&M route #42?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area : Crabby Appleton (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: busy sorting the good from the bad ...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : No Stranger to the Fist (5.12d)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 22, 2012

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Comments: I have a vague memory of the 5.8 var being stout but not impossible, on sight.

No information on "No Stranger" in the Extremist's Guide ....


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: It is also possible to start "Fritz" from where the #2 arrow is.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : In the Heat of the Sun (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: Not that contrived, actually. Except for my self-imposed confusion about whether or not to use the edges of the face, it flowed pretty well. A good climber could probably do it straight up, too.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : In the Heat of the Sun (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Standard rack???? Didn't look like much gear to me ....

I ended up grabbing each edge of the face once.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : Rainman (5.10b R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 11, 2012

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Comments: Wow! Pulling through that roof it was not at all obvious where to go. A sequence of small crimps hidden in plain view, classic Lake!


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