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Rock Climbing Photo: On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
Contact Doug Hemken

Doug Hemken
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Point Rank: # 78
Total Points: 5,439
Last Year: 233
Last 30 Days: 18
212 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2398 | Routes 153 | Areas 31 | Photos 588 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 483 | Posts 573 | Stars 486 | Ratings 77
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi...
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: A description of the West bluff towers circuit would make a nice addition here. I'm thinking you could provide an overview, with links to individual routes pages?


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall : Jet Stream (5.10a R) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 27, 2013

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Comments: Looks like "Worried Wives' Club" also shared a couple of pitches ...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi... : South Bluff - North Face Gu... : Canfield Cut (Manley Creek ... (3rd WI1)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: To the east of the South Bluff Towers, above Roznos Meadow?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Linkups, Contrivances, Oddi...
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: James! I too have been thinking we need a place to post linkups and circuits! This is the place for our DL "Astro-Boy"!

I think this "area" should include either the word "linkup" or "circuit" in the title.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : King's Throne (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I think Burt's photos show that at least a couple of other people agree with you!


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Little pine (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Hey, great job jumping on something undocumented!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: Nice photo.

tangentially, there have been a couple of rattlers spotted on the East Bluff this year (2013)!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff North : ... : Finding Remo (V6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: "Feeding Remo" ... Mike, maybe it would help us keep track if the other one was in the data base?


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Aimless Foreshadowing (5.10c R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Tough first moves. Loved the rails toward the top!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Double Overhang (5.4) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: Nice straight line with that rope!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 01 - Sandstone A... : New Sandstone Area
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: We are actively pursuing this. Last saw the Supt on Thursday.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: H.H. Bennett image from the Wisconsin Historical Society.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Cleo's Needle Southwest Dih... (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 10, 2013

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Comments: The ring bolt was placed in the 1960s by one of those Stettner boys ... ask around the CMC about it! At that point, they had already been climbing there for a few decades.

The Wisconsin State Historical Society has a photo of someone on top of the Needle from the 1910s by H.H. Bennett


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 03 - West of the... : Vulture Lookout : Magic Mushroom (5.12b/c)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Led?!! Wow!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Devils Doorway : Impossible Crack (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Four pieces of gear: pink tricam, #2 C4, #4 C4, and a #5 C4.

You could substitute the appropriate size nut for the tricam, it's just there to keep you from bouncing into the abyss on the first easy moves.

And you could use the 3 & 4 C4s instead of the 4 & 5, but you will have to put more thought into how you place them.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Jewel Pinnacle : Diamond in the Crack (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Gotta say, I'm sad to hear that convenience anchors have shown up in such an out-of-the-way place.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Matt, that old photo is just an overlay of where KP thought the route would go versus where it actually went.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: As a single pitch route, start out on the ledge to the right of the pine tree.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Jungle Gym (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Such a great, airy position!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area : Rich Bechler Memorial Route (5.10a/b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 25, 2013

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Comments: A scrappy route, a diamond in the rough.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass : Mindless Dribble (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Nice moves! And gear in your face through the crux! Take small nuts and cams in the 1/4 to 1/2 inch range.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 01 - Sandstone A... : Old Sandstone : Freaky Face (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 14, 2013

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Comments: The oak tree at the base of "Swillbillies" has a dead limb pointing toward "Freaky Face". There is an active bee's nest inside the dead limb ... a couple of people got stung yesterday.

Doesn't seem to effect "Swillbillies."


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Unnamed 5.3 Corner (5.3)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 8, 2013

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Comments: If it is unnamed in the guidebook, go ahead and give it a name.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Perverted Inspiration (5.10c R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Seemed like an 11 to me ... I was schooled!

Not as powerful as Coup d'Etat, but also requires more balance and has less positive holds. Whipping Boy is certainly easier, to me.

Reminds me most of Pussycat.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Get Jacked (5.6 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: We stemmed across. No gear the way *you* went! but if you're not hauling big gear, it wouldn't really matter ...

I enjoyed it!


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