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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was a teenager in KY in 1977, and I think this article was the first I became aware of Devils Lake. The photos and the Slinger character left a vivid impression on me!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I now see where Errol Morris got his writing style!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, obviously written by a Hoofer! (The Mountaineering Club was 10 years old, then.)
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Dyspepsia (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You should always be wary of a route named for a disease!
The key gear is small, 1/8-1/2" stoppers in shallow but solid placements. Be careful not to kick or jostle it out as you move up past it! Fortunately, gear and stances come about every body length.
If the "approach" ramp weren't half the route, this would deserve 3 stars.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Prime ice fishing!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Green Bulge (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Requires faith in the friction of both your hands and feet!
A great TR, starting from the right end of the slab, or a pretty good lead from the left, starting over near "Balcony." Small, shallow nut at the crux (1/8 - 1/4"). If you are tall enough you can reach up to the right and get in a small (1/2") cam or tricam.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Eave of Destruction (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A short but devious crux. Commit to the face.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Rainy Wednesday Tower : Hirsute (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of nice roof/bulge moves, interspersed in otherwise humdrum rock.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You don't trust Joe Stettner's anchor?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Steinke Basin Bouldering : Cibola Wall
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one could be hard to find without GPS.
In addition to the approach information above, another approach route would be to find Steinke Wall, walk over SE to Triple Tower, then stay on the same course for another 1/4 mile.
Nick's approach is shorter if you have a GPS receiver, but following the slope from the other rock cuts might? be easier if you don't have a receiver.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Steinke Basin Bouldering : Triple Tower Wall
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not too too hard to find.
From the "Zaleta" memorial bench, walk over to the top of Steinke Wall, just a few dozen feet away. From there, head left (upstream) and angle down slope just a bit. You do not need to go steeply downhill. Triple Tower is about 100 yards to the Southeast.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Steinke Basin Bouldering : Storm Wrack Wall
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "Peetz" memorial bench is just above Storm Wrack.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Rainy Wednesday Tower : New Light Waves (5.12b) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't realize we got points for being in front of the camera!
Good to see y'all out on a brisk Sunday! Seeing this photo reminds me that "New Light Waves" actually had a brief period of popularity in the mid-1990s (about the same time "Cosmic Cringe" and "Flatus" were popular).
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Tarantula (5.10b) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love Gargantua ... when I get it. And I hate it when I don't!
At some point in the future some poor admin-type is going to feel compelled to move this whole discussion over to Gargantua, you know.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Girls Named Sue (5.5)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this supposed to be the crack immediately to the right of "Everleigh"?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Everleigh Club Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing is as classic as it looks! Such pretty corners!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : American Beauty Crack (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of the best off-hands moves at the Lake.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Africa Crack (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbs a lot like "Coatimundi."
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Leaning Tower : Cosmic Cringe (5.11a PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I couldn't resist the opportunity to give you a hard time.
This route was popular for a couple of years in the early 90s - it often had a TR set up. Nowadays its pretty quiet.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Condolences (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A better version of "The Pedestal," and better protected, too.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Leaning Tower : Cosmic Cringe (5.11a PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting how 8 1/2 years has added two stars and dropped the rating by a letter!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : The Effie : Effie (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do "Dippy," then traverse/walk over and do this!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Hole-In-The-Wall : Rodin's Inspiration (5.7 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: In contrast to Swartling & Mayer - "surprisingly harder than it looks" - I thought it was a bit easier than it looked ... on TR. On lead I thought the gear was anything but an "inspiration!"
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : The Effie
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Swartling & Mayer suggest hiking up through the boulder field below. That would absolutely be the shortest approach if you know exactly where you are headed. Use a GPS unit, and head up between the western-most potholes between the Grottos trail and the boulder field. Even then, you'll probably have to look around a bit.
It's on the west side of the second gully to the west of Major Mass.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Invitation Direct (5.8+ PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear: small wires and cams, 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Having hung on some of this gear, I think this route can be well protected!
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