Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Doug Hemken

Doug Hemken
is a member of
Point Rank: # 76
Total Points: 5,417
Last Year: 410
Last 30 Days: 0
207 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2371 | Routes 153 | Areas 31 | Photos 586 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 471 | Posts 561 | Stars 485 | Ratings 77
Page 4 of 19.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Cleo's Needle Southwest Dih... (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The ring bolt was placed in the 1960s by one of those Stettner boys ... ask around the CMC about it! At that point, they had already been climbing there for a few decades.

The Wisconsin State Historical Society has a photo of someone on top of the Needle from the 1910s by H.H. Bennett


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 03 - West of the... : Vulture Lookout : Magic Mushroom (5.12b/c)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Led?!! Wow!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Devils Doorway : Impossible Crack (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Four pieces of gear: pink tricam, #2 C4, #4 C4, and a #5 C4.

You could substitute the appropriate size nut for the tricam, it's just there to keep you from bouncing into the abyss on the first easy moves.

And you could use the 3 & 4 C4s instead of the 4 & 5, but you will have to put more thought into how you place them.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Jewel Pinnacle : Diamond in the Crack (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Gotta say, I'm sad to hear that convenience anchors have shown up in such an out-of-the-way place.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Sinocranium (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Matt, that old photo is just an overlay of where KP thought the route would go versus where it actually went.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: As a single pitch route, start out on the ledge to the right of the pine tree.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Jungle Gym (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Such a great, airy position!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area : Rich Bechler Memorial Route (5.10a/b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A scrappy route, a diamond in the rough.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Lower Major Mass : Mindless Dribble (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nice moves! And gear in your face through the crux! Take small nuts and cams in the 1/4 to 1/2 inch range.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 01 - Sandstone A... : Old Sandstone : Freaky Face (5.10d)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The oak tree at the base of "Swillbillies" has a dead limb pointing toward "Freaky Face". There is an active bee's nest inside the dead limb ... a couple of people got stung yesterday.

Doesn't seem to effect "Swillbillies."


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater : Unnamed 5.3 Corner (5.3)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If it is unnamed in the guidebook, go ahead and give it a name.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Perverted Inspiration (5.10c R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Seemed like an 11 to me ... I was schooled!

Not as powerful as Coup d'Etat, but also requires more balance and has less positive holds. Whipping Boy is certainly easier, to me.

Reminds me most of Pussycat.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Get Jacked (5.6 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We stemmed across. No gear the way *you* went! but if you're not hauling big gear, it wouldn't really matter ...

I enjoyed it!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Get Jacked (5.6 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Andy, I can't decide if you mean route 59? If so, then I thought it was very well protected, it just needs big gear (#3-5 BD camalots).


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area : Clout Buster (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Better than it looks! Lower chockstone moves are nice! and the thin upper slab and arete are thoughtful.

Stay right of the pointed block and right of the tree, like in the photo of Mike, in order to avoid rope drag.

A #2 ballnut makes the final step easy to protect, but a thin nut will also suffice.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Hawk's Nest : Charybdis (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Judging by the location of the rope, he must have soloed to that point!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 02 - East of the... : September Wall : Labor Day (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: takes thin gear


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Four Brothers : Family Jewels (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Wonderfully sustained!

A #2 ballnut works great! for the first crux move. You can also fish in a very narrow nut, but its more work.

Starting from the left pedestal, I think "5.7" is a sandbag. If you don't see the move, you can also start from "Gravel Pit" on the right, and traverse in.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Pine Box (5.9+) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yer right!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall
By: Doug Hemken When: May 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The top of Wiessner is not very far off of the West Bluff trail.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 03 - West of the... : Vulture Lookout : The V (aka The Vulva) (5.10d)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Given Bechler's comment above, I wonder if that wasn't just Leo taking a poke at some CMC'er?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 03 - West of the... : Vulture Lookout : The V (aka The Vulva) (5.10d)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, it's been led.

I'm curious why you say the "old" guide "only gives first TR info." Which old guide? The Swartling guides don't give "first" anything!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : The Guillotine : Levitation Right Side (5.8 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: No typo, I disagree with The Book on this one.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Near the cut-off from the Potholes Trail?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: That is a half rope. Seems like that might have been a Marathon Day, and they were using the half in order to have less rope to pull up at the end of each pitch (it adds up when you're doing 15-20 pitches in a day!).

I'm happy twinning a half rope if the gear is bomber and the route is straight, but if the gear is faintly suspect it is better to use half-rope technique. Be aware that there is more stretch with a half than a single.

Half rope technique is only marginally of value on "Peter's.... more >>


Page 4 of 19.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!