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On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Doug Hemken
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Point Rank: # 73
Total Points: 5,221
Last Year: 509
Last 30 Days: 23
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2304 | Routes 145 | Areas 31 | Photos 566 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 458 | Posts 550 | Stars 472 | Ratings 76
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Get Jacked (5.6 PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 20, 2013

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Comments: Andy, I can't decide if you mean route 59? If so, then I thought it was very well protected, it just needs big gear (#3-5 BD camalots).


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area : Clout Buster (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 17, 2013

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Comments: Better than it looks! Lower chockstone moves are nice! and the thin upper slab and arete are thoughtful.

Stay right of the pointed block and right of the tree, like in the photo of Mike, in order to avoid rope drag.

A #2 ballnut makes the final step easy to protect, but a thin nut will also suffice.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Charybdis (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 14, 2013

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Comments: Judging by the location of the rope, he must have soloed to that point!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East of the Qu... : September Wall : Labor Day (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: takes thin gear


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Four Brothers : Family Jewels (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 4, 2013

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Comments: Wonderfully sustained!

A #2 ballnut works great! for the first crux move. You can also fish in a very narrow nut, but its more work.

Starting from the left pedestal, I think "5.7" is a sandbag. If you don't see the move, you can also start from "Gravel Pit" on the right, and traverse in.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Pine Box (5.9+) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Yer right!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Wiessner Wall
By: Doug Hemken When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: The top of Wiessner is not very far off of the West Bluff trail.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : The V (aka The Vulva) (5.10d)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Given Bechler's comment above, I wonder if that wasn't just Leo taking a poke at some CMC'er?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : The V (aka The Vulva) (5.10d)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 10, 2013

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Comments: Yes, it's been led.

I'm curious why you say the "old" guide "only gives first TR info." Which old guide? The Swartling guides don't give "first" anything!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : The Guillotine : Levitation Right Side (5.8 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 8, 2013

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Comments: No typo, I disagree with The Book on this one.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Near the cut-off from the Potholes Trail?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: That is a half rope. Seems like that might have been a Marathon Day, and they were using the half in order to have less rope to pull up at the end of each pitch (it adds up when you're doing 15-20 pitches in a day!).

I'm happy twinning a half rope if the gear is bomber and the route is straight, but if the gear is faintly suspect it is better to use half-rope technique. Be aware that there is more stretch with a half than a single.

Half rope technique is only marginally of value on "Peter's.... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Can't believe you all went to the coldest area at the Lake in order to climb in the shade! You are obsessed!


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: So if you look at Larry's photo-topo posted here on MP, you will see that you did it the same way he suggests.

The guidebook disagrees with a member of the FA party who usually documents things pretty carefully ... I think I'd put the guidebook aside on this one!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: It's had a name for like 30-40 years, but has been climbed by less than half a dozen people.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Upper : ... : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 9, 2013

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Comments: There are those who maintain that the introduction of pitons into the climbing world was the birth of "sport" climbing ...


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Dodgeball (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Great route! Pitches 2 & 3 are stunning, and the rest was very nice as well!

We pulled down (but not out) on the block.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: The walk-off is a gorgeous scramble/hike ... I've done it three times. See the main "Mescalito" page.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Two Hoofers (5.12)
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: The runout is easy friction. Feel free to take along a hammer and drill and add a couple of bolts to pitch 5, or even break it up into two pitches. We ran it out because we ran out of time ....


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: Yes, that's what Nick meant. I've been resisting the urge to add this as an Area, because its nice to have a few rocks that are undescribed. (And all the access is across private property.)


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: Yes!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Boomtown
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: These coordinates for Boomtown put it on the north side of the South Bluff. A better guess would be closer to 16 T 279479 4808452 or N43.39653 W89.72302. Nick's coordinates for "Dark Horse", right next door, are reasonably accurate. These two areas should be merged.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Dark Horse Area
By: Doug Hemken When: Jan 2, 2013

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Comments: Snowshoed past "Dark Horse" on the way out to Devils Nose, starting from the end of Burma Road. "Dark Horse" is on the south side of the flat top of the South Bluff.

It is almost due north of the end of Halweg Road.

I'm not much a of judge of bouldering potential, but it looks like there should be over a half dozen problem among these rocks.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 13, 2012

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Comments: Not everyone is free climbing, for one thing.

The party at the top of p1 is using an alternate belay, good for them!

Love the big loop under the second at the end of overhang!

Hard to tell if the pair at the top of p3 is going up or coming down, everyone in between has packs so they are probably going up for the day.

Beautiful route ....


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : Ghost Talus Field
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 8, 2012

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Comments: Nice! You could probably just park in that pull-out, too. Where does that bring you up in relation to the talus field: east, west, or center?

I found the coordinates posted at the top of this page to be fairly accurate, so if you have a GPS receiver its probably easiest walking to head up the Reserve trail and come in from the top.


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