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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Monolith Blocks
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sadly, the Monolith overlook seems to be THE most popular place for hikers to dump trash down the crevices in the rock.
If hikers want to trash hiking areas, that is their business. But when hikers trash climbing areas, that becomes our business. Right now (2012), the climbing areas are generally the cleanest user areas in the Park. Help keep it that way, and bring along a trash bag when you visit the Monolith Blocks and other areas.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Monolith Blocks : Rainbow Crack (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went back and did this one a second time. It is possible to avoid most of the offwidth moves at the top, if you find just the right face holds. In that case, this might be more of a 5.8 than 5.9.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Monolith Blocks : Thumbs of Steel (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very pretty moves. I think I liked this one the best, of the routes here.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : East Comfort Route (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the same as the "East Dihedral". Because Tom misnamed it, things have since gotten duplicated. The photos make it clear.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Step-Across (5.6 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: At the crux you can bail to the right. Jam up between the namesake pine tree and the rock, then move back left to the top of the route.
Or just bail to "Pine Tree Dihedral".
A brief shower induced us to look around for options ....
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Tomahawk Rocks : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name given is clear when this rock is viewed from the South, although a little pine tree is beginning to obscure that view.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Tomahawk Rocks : Puzzlement (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this with gear to 2 inches ... barely adequate. This would be a comfortable lead if I could remember to bring the big gear next time.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - North End : Monolith Blocks : Rainbow Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was wandering around last winter looking for animal tracks and stumbled on this, then looked it up in Swartling & Mayer. Just yards off the main trail, and its practically a level walk to the base of the route! Needless to say, I've been psyched to get on it ever since.
I thought the crux would be low, but it turned out its up high.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Carl, I'm amazed ...
Chris, Grabill was standing closer to the N end of the prairie dog town, so if you were trying to copy him ....
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Birthday Rocks : The Right Twin (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The gear gets tricky as you move past the ancient pitons (don't trust those!) and into the crux. The upper gear is okay, but will cost you a little thought and finagling.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Birthday Rocks : Mitzvah (5.7+)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A little contrived, but just consider it an exercise in good posture to keep your back off the chimney.
Actually, a pretty fun route.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Birthday Rocks : Mitzvah (5.7+)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Burt has renamed this route "Bat mitzvah"! Andy, you only have yourself to blame!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Birthday Rocks : Flying Delorean (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice moves! A little technique, a little faith, and a great hold just past each delicate move.
Gear: it's not plug-and-go, but with patience and the right gear (mostly finger sized nuts and cams, with one fist-sized cam) it can be sown up. Mike S. & I used the smallest ballnut (we each led). There is also some easy-to-place side-gear.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : The Green Slime (5.10c) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That poor little tree is gone. Based on our photos, I'd guess someone "gardened" it last year.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : A Point of Balance (5.8)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent, overlooked route!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turks Tooth (5.2)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a pretty little route! This should be a first lead for loads of people!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Porkchop Buttress : No Exit (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scruffy little climb, but the exit moves are fun.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Split Tower : Dark Side of the Moon (5.1)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy, but classic!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Split Tower
By: Doug Hemken When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took a wrong turn headed for Porkchop from below, and ended up 100 ft. North at this Tower. Nice!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area : Crabby Appleton (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks reminiscent of Black Magic and Hot Flash?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think we got rid of the yellow dot on one of our graffiti clean ups, last Fall.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Zschiesche writes:
"Thanks for the query,... in regard to the information and drawings from " Git on it ", feel free to use them. In regards to the R&I article,... I am not sure who has the copyright "rights" to that material. Thanks again, and,... any more questions, fire away.
cheers, Eric"
So if you post copies, please get them from "Git On It!", and make sure to include an attribution.
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Location: WY : Wind River Range : Dinwoody Glacier Area. : Gannett Peak : Gooseneck Glacier Route (3rd Mod. Snow) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slackline! But I wonder how that affects your karma?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've asked Eric Z to let me know how he feels about all this.
The R&I guide is under their copyright, I presume? Posting one page is probably "fair use" (as long as you include a note about the original source), but posting the whole thing would be a pretty clear infringement ... you could ask them for permission ....
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: James and Michael.
We call this "dumpster diving", and sometimes you have to use creative technique to get to trash buried deeply in a crevice.
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