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Rock Climbing Photo: On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: May 19, 2016
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Doug Hemken
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Point Rank: # 78
Total Points: 5,471
Last Year: 251
Last 30 Days: 33
214 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2410 | Routes 153 | Areas 31 | Photos 594 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 485 | Posts 577 | Stars 486 | Ratings 77
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: Doug Hemken When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: On Google maps this is mistakenly marked as "Rest Area 82" (which is further south, on northbound I-39). It also appears this is part of the Ice Age Trail corridor?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Jungle Gym (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: As a link-up, you do two pitches below the main climb (the Jungle Gym tower). I've never seen anyone break the upper part into two pitches, although I suppose you could if you were really determined.


Location: WI : Dudley Davis Quarry Park: S...
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Some history of the park is here:
shorewood-hills.org/index.asp?...

Sounds like a place that could use a helping hand!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 01 - Sandstone A... : Old Sandstone
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: TOP ACCESS/DESCENT:
There is now an access trail to the top around the last of the rock at the west (left) end of the Old Sandstone, and brush has been piled up on the old access. Please use the new access to reduce erosion.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Red Rock - Potholes
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Stettner's Rocks and Misery Rocks are both probably better for kids.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: I understand Devils Lake is at the very edge of their range - they are really special here.

In the early 90s we used to see one where you cut around the end of D'Arcy's to get to the top of the bluff. Around the same time there was also one in the Leaning Tower gully.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Black Dagger (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: It's harder than 5.7 that way - better to belay lower like sqwirll.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: I walked through once after the vandalism, and that's what it looked like to me, Nick. But I don't know this rock very well, myself.

I also tried to contact the regional DNR office about this, but got zero response.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Nick, I think pdk documented it pretty thoroughly.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds State Park (Luv... : Bouldering @ Blue Mounds : Quarry Boulder : Uranus (V-easy)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Just another opinion here, but I think Zach should have an "ungraded" option. I realize it is "old school", but I think climbers should always be encouraged to look at the rock and read it for themselves.

Zach, if you are going to give something a grade that is deliberately wrong, you should highlight that in the DESCRIPTION, not just put it in the comments as an afterthought.


Location: WI : Gibraltar Rock
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: No change in legal status.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: "Thoroughfare" is very similar, as aid.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Joel, I think I'd call it C2. Occasional gear that you might not want catching a big fall? But never more than one less-than-terrific piece in a row. Once they start stacking up into a house of cards, that's what I think of as C3.

It's probably been 7-10 years since I aided this, so my memory may be playing tricks on me. I remember a couple of cam hook moves I thought were exciting.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: There are quite a few towers around here with *no* bolts on top, and even 1 or 2 that were formerly bolted where the bolt has been abandoned.

I'm as happy rapping off this bolt as I am rapping off Devil's Doorway. I'm more worried about the wobbly summit block, frankly. One of those came down just last winter!


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 29, 2015

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Comments: I assume if a route is popular that people find value in it. You argue that if a route is popular it should be altered?

To be clear, I don't think popularity (or non-popularity) is the bottom line here, just something that ought to be an additional consideration. I'm more with James, bolts here are obviously unnecessary, and the climbing community should be placing the bar higher for ourselves, especially on public land.

While we all appreciate convenience, is that also *all* we care about?


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 28, 2015

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Comments: Tony, it sounds to me like you are saying: the greater the number of people who value a route as it is, the more urgently we need to change those values.

You also appear to be saying that most climbers would appreciate always having bolted anchors.

I think most climbers appreciate both sport values and trad values: the simplification and focus of sport routes, and the additional skills and judgement required for trad routes.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: I don't understand: "This would save on going to the top and building an anchor" but "Not everyone wants to climb TR"? People don't climb to the tops of climbs anymore?

The number of ticks on this route here on MP shows that this route is already popular. Altering a route on public land that already has a substantial community of users strikes me as high handed/self centered.

Putting bolts in rocks is totally appropriate in some circumstances. In my opinion, these are not those circumstance... more >>


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Dec 1, 2015

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Comments: Jon, is that likely to happen soon? What kind of tree is it?


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes : 5.6 dihedral (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: I'd agree with James. This is an established route that already sees plenty of use. The bar for convenience anchors on public land should be set higher than this.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Ramsay's Pinnacle : Bloody Shin (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: I took over this page from someone else, and the 5.7 rating is theirs. I thought this felt like a 5.8, myself.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Ramsay's Pinnacle : Eagle Dihedral (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Named for the two very talkative bald eagles who flew over our heads earlier in the day.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Ramsay's Pinnacle : Pit Start (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: If you skip the pit start, and step across, this is leadable at 5.8 or so.

It is also possible to step across and finish to the left, on "Burt's", maybe 5.6 or 5.7?

Both of these variations have been done, but not by me.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Ramsay's Pinnacle : Burt's Beta (5.10b) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: "Burt's Beta" starts at the left corner, and climbs up along the edges and incipient cracks (the black streaks in this photo) moving toward the right.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 08 - North End : Elephant Rocks : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: I don't see the elephant myself, but look at this old "postcard"
wisconsinhistory.org/Content.a...


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: On the one hand, cute - I'd almost call that art.

On the other hand, we need to figure out how to clean up the graffiti at this place!


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