Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Doug Hemken

Doug Hemken
is a member of
Point Rank: # 76
Total Points: 5,737
Last Year: 496
Last 30 Days: 70
224 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Doug Hemken been climbing?










Contributions


All 2538 | Routes 158 | Areas 31 | Photos 633 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 506 | Posts 616 | Stars 505 | Ratings 82
Page 1 of 21.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Witches Cauldron : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Dave, do you want them to stop?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: We wandered over from Split Tower to start on pitch "3". I'd call it 4 more pitches to the top (so 5 or 6 total), 5.6ish to the base of Turk's Head and Weissner Wall. Saw lots of enticing variations to explore, especially to the right of the Ridge.

I note with some irony that the "usual" finish does not seem to include actually climbing the Turk's Head! And why does no one ... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Misery/Cottage... : Split Tower : Moon Face (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Avoiding the right-hand corner makes this a bit harder.

The first piece of pro is a small/micro cam. I'd call this lead PG because of the difficulty placing gear from not-enough-crimps. However the gear is well enough spaced, and bomber, and the crux isn't too far from the ground.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro... : North Wall : An Eye For an Eye (5.10a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Do you mean the face at the top of "Turn the Other Cheek"? or around the corner to the left?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : Pigeon Roof (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Aug 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It has been quite a few years since pigeons nested here.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Switch Cover Crack (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hmm, missed an opportunity to call this "Think Outside the Box"!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Talus From Gnarnia (V3 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This boulder, and this post, appeared in the local Madison newspaper, discussing
graffiti and the follow up that quotes this post .


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : Great Mass in C Minor (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: First few moves are hard to rate - I could see variations from 5.5 to 5.9, depending on what holds you consider "on".


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : Birthday Rocks : Birthday Crack (5.7+) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Jul 4, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I'm always draw into this photo, when I see it. The way you have the rocks framed, Nick, really gives the route a sweeping feel. And of course, Phil's characteristic grin! Great morning light, perfect moment.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : West Face : Mr. Clean (5.11a)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: When it's not closed for falcon nesting, yes.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Forbidden Rocks
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Sure looks like DNR land if your gps location is correct (technically, not Devils Lake). You ought to be able to drive to that location whenever the main gate to Sauk Prairie Rec Area is open.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Cleo's Needle South-Central... (5.4) : Photo (Copy)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Go straight up the dihedral instead of stepping out to the arete.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Whitney's Formation : Whitney's Crack (5.8-)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A #4 and #5 Trango Ballnutz were fast and solid for protecting the crux.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Whitney's Formation : Two Overhangs (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I went left. OK pro with a #3 C4 - could have used a #4 C4.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Jungle Gym (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I've cleaned up the description a little (I took over this page from the original submitter).


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : No Sweat : The Mongo Mantle (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The gear is there, but not a gimme. Luckily, the stances are great while you ponder.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : No Sweat : Mongo Fury (5.10c PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: What a great route! Why did I wait so long to get on this?

Classic Devils Lake in so many ways: packs a lot of thought into a short space, deciphering which of the edges above you are flat and which are slopers is key, and the actual line is not the most visible line. Amazingly varied, devious, and sustained.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : No Sweat : T-Bomb (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: All three moves are fun ...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : No Sweat : The Mongo Mantle (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Burt's start ("climb the small rib") is quite a sandbag. The left start (given in Swartling & Mayer) is somewhat un-aesthetic - easy and not really in a line with the rest of the route. However, we both finally opened our eyes and realized you can just start around the corner to the right on "Mongo Fury" - this protects well, makes the climb a single sweeping line, and is about the right grade.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Sixteen people have submitted ratings, RW, but not you. The hardest rating suggested so far is 5.7+, and the median is 5.6 R.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress : Agnostic (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I'd give you PG13 on some of the variations here ... but even so I feel it is safer than Grand Inquisitor, myself.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: Doug Hemken When: May 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: On Google maps this is mistakenly marked as "Rest Area 82" (which is further south, on northbound I-39). It also appears this is part of the Ice Age Trail corridor?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Jungle Gym (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As a link-up, you do two pitches below the main climb (the Jungle Gym tower). I've never seen anyone break the upper part into two pitches, although I suppose you could if you were really determined.


Location: WI : Dudley Davis Quarry Park: S...
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 28, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Some history of the park is here:
shorewood-hills.org/index.asp?...

Sounds like a place that could use a helping hand!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 01 - Sandstone A... : Old Sandstone
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: TOP ACCESS/DESCENT:
There is now an access trail to the top around the last of the rock at the west (left) end of the Old Sandstone, and brush has been piled up on the old access. Please use the new access to reduce erosion.


Page 1 of 21.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!