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Rock Climbing Photo: On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.


Member Since: Oct 1, 2004
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Doug Hemken
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Point Rank: # 77
Total Points: 5,612
Last Year: 390
Last 30 Days: 141
217 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2480 | Routes 157 | Areas 31 | Photos 612 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 496 | Posts 598 | Stars 500 | Ratings 79
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Forbidden Rocks
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Sure looks like DNR land if your gps location is correct (technically, not Devils Lake). You ought to be able to drive to that location whenever the main gate to Sauk Prairie Rec Area is open.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Cleo's Needle South-Central... (5.4) : Photo (Copy)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: Go straight up the dihedral instead of stepping out to the arete.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Whitney's Formation : Whitney's Crack (5.8-)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: A #4 and #5 Trango Ballnutz were fast and solid for protecting the crux.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Whitney's Formation : Two Overhangs (5.6)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: I went left. OK pro with a #3 C4 - could have used a #4 C4.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Jungle Gym (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 9, 2016

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Comments: I've cleaned up the description a little (I took over this page from the original submitter).


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : No Sweat : The Mongo Mantle (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: The gear is there, but not a gimme. Luckily, the stances are great while you ponder.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : No Sweat : Mongo Fury (5.10c PG13)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: What a great route! Why did I wait so long to get on this?

Classic Devils Lake in so many ways: packs a lot of thought into a short space, deciphering which of the edges above you are flat and which are slopers is key, and the actual line is not the most visible line. Amazingly varied, devious, and sustained.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : No Sweat : T-Bomb (5.9)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: All three moves are fun ...


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : No Sweat : The Mongo Mantle (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Burt's start ("climb the small rib") is quite a sandbag. The left start (given in Swartling & Mayer) is somewhat un-aesthetic - easy and not really in a line with the rest of the route. However, we both finally opened our eyes and realized you can just start around the corner to the right on "Mongo Fury" - this protects well, makes the climb a single sweeping line, and is about the right grade.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Doug Hemken When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Sixteen people have submitted ratings, RW, but not you. The hardest rating suggested so far is 5.7+, and the median is 5.6 R.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress : Agnostic (5.7)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: I'd give you PG13 on some of the variations here ... but even so I feel it is safer than Grand Inquisitor, myself.


Location: WI : Hillbilly Hollow
By: Doug Hemken When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: On Google maps this is mistakenly marked as "Rest Area 82" (which is further south, on northbound I-39). It also appears this is part of the Ice Age Trail corridor?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass : Upper Major Mass & Jungle G... : Jungle Gym (5.4)
By: Doug Hemken When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: As a link-up, you do two pitches below the main climb (the Jungle Gym tower). I've never seen anyone break the upper part into two pitches, although I suppose you could if you were really determined.


Location: WI : Dudley Davis Quarry Park: S...
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 28, 2016

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Comments: Some history of the park is here:
shorewood-hills.org/index.asp?...

Sounds like a place that could use a helping hand!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 01 - Sandstone A... : Old Sandstone
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: TOP ACCESS/DESCENT:
There is now an access trail to the top around the last of the rock at the west (left) end of the Old Sandstone, and brush has been piled up on the old access. Please use the new access to reduce erosion.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Red Rock - Potholes
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Stettner's Rocks and Misery Rocks are both probably better for kids.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 05 - Potholes Ar... : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: I understand Devils Lake is at the very edge of their range - they are really special here.

In the early 90s we used to see one where you cut around the end of D'Arcy's to get to the top of the bluff. Around the same time there was also one in the Leaning Tower gully.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Black Dagger (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: It's harder than 5.7 that way - better to belay lower like sqwirll.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: I walked through once after the vandalism, and that's what it looked like to me, Nick. But I don't know this rock very well, myself.

I also tried to contact the regional DNR office about this, but got zero response.


Location: WI : The Fishin' Crag (Castle Ro...
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Nick, I think pdk documented it pretty thoroughly.


Location: MN : Blue Mounds State Park (Luv... : Bouldering @ Blue Mounds : Quarry Boulder : Uranus (V-easy)
By: Doug Hemken When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Just another opinion here, but I think Zach should have an "ungraded" option. I realize it is "old school", but I think climbers should always be encouraged to look at the rock and read it for themselves.

Zach, if you are going to give something a grade that is deliberately wrong, you should highlight that in the DESCRIPTION, not just put it in the comments as an afterthought.


Location: WI : Gibraltar Rock
By: Doug Hemken When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: No change in legal status.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: "Thoroughfare" is very similar, as aid.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress : Cheatah (5.10b)
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Joel, I think I'd call it C2. Occasional gear that you might not want catching a big fall? But never more than one less-than-terrific piece in a row. Once they start stacking up into a house of cards, that's what I think of as C3.

It's probably been 7-10 years since I aided this, so my memory may be playing tricks on me. I remember a couple of cam hook moves I thought were exciting.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle : Photo
By: Doug Hemken When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: There are quite a few towers around here with *no* bolts on top, and even 1 or 2 that were formerly bolted where the bolt has been abandoned.

I'm as happy rapping off this bolt as I am rapping off Devil's Doorway. I'm more worried about the wobbly summit block, frankly. One of those came down just last winter!


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