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Location: NV : Red Rock : Red Rock Rendezvous 2013 - ...
By: Doug Foust When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: John H.,
I respect your opinion, but I think you mis-represent a couple of things in your post.
The BLM has talked to Meetup about limiting the size of thier groups, but has in no way banned them. On saturday, between 2 Meetup hiking groups, there were 68 people hiking in Red Rock. That's about 10% percent of the total attendence of the RRR, so if you look at Meetup over time, they have much more of an impact than the RRR.
Also, the discussion over bolting isn't over one single bolt, it's ov... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Red Rock Rendezvous 2013 - ...
By: Doug Foust When: Mar 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Big Jon!
How are you my friend?
I've attended the RRR many years ago, climbed in the canyons that weekend when not participating, and now work the event as a guide for the American Alpine Institute.
I've always been a fan of the event and thought it was a fun gathering to gain some knowledge and meet fellow climbers from all over the country.
Another secret is...during the weekend, all the participants are at single pitch crags and the canyons are empty. 3 years ago I climbed Bourbon Str... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: Doug Foust When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure if the scrub oak protecting the alcove at the bottom of the first pitch has grown, but getting past it looked quite daunting if not impossible. We ended up starting the pitch lower down and to the left of the tree right on the arete. We still had to navigate past a couple branches, but seemed quite a bit more civilized.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mud Spring Canyon : Chuckawalla 21 (5.9 PG13)
By: Doug Foust When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this was a 2 star climb in a 4 star setting, so I gave it 3 stars. The line is really cool, the summit is amazing and the climbing is fun, but there is a predominance of hollow flakes on every single pitch.
I'm pretty stingy with R ratings but thought the 1st and 5th pitches were runout. I would not reccomend the first pitch for someone new to Red Rock or leading at their limit. The climbing on the 5th pitch is quite easy, but there is one steep section that is almost all hollow rock a... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8) : Photo
By: Doug Foust When: Mar 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: cool as in no regard for your partners life?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Rainbow Buttress (5.8)
By: Doug Foust When: Mar 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great position of this route, dihedral pitch is amazing. Bolted last pitch felt like 5.8 with the crappy rock.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9)
By: Doug Foust When: Feb 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wierd optical illusion while climbing pitch 5, looked up and saw the bolt for the traverse on pitch 6 and it looked freakishly huge, like 4 to 6 inches in size. The closer I got it looked smaller until it just looked like a regular bolt. My partner noticed the same illusion. Anyone else notice this or was it just wierd lighting at that particular time?
I ended up going straight to that bolt missing the anchors and linked the two pitches with some rope drag.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunflower (5.9 R)
By: Doug Foust When: Jan 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The flakes you stand on at the top of p3 are sketchy! I shifted my weight and heard it creek 3 feet away.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Pending Disaster (5.9+)
By: Doug Foust When: Jan 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun route
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Moderate Mecca : Scalawag (5.10)
By: Doug Foust When: Jan 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: too bad there isn't some more sustained climbing after the roof, would make this a great climb. Great climb for pictures!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Crude Boys (5.10d)
By: Doug Foust When: Dec 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you go left after clipping the second bolt, it's more like 10b/c, if you stay on the line and go straight up, feels like 11b/c
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : L2 (5.9)
By: Doug Foust When: Nov 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts on this route and the one to the left are a bit more spaced than other routes in the corridor, a couple of the clipping stances felt a bit awkward
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Doug Foust When: Nov 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: My new favorite climb in Red Rock. The climbing above the fourth pitch is not 4th class like the Handren book states. Although not difficult, the routefinding, fragile/lichen covered rock, loose rock, detached blocks, and potential rope drag make for some thoughtful leading. Once to the top you can stay high and head straight towards Whiskey Peak eventually passing just to right where you will end up on the frogland descent just up above the saddle.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Y2K (5.10a)
By: Doug Foust When: Oct 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux feels 5.9 if you are tall
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Peyote Power (5.9)
By: Doug Foust When: Oct 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Came up a litte short on pitch 2 using a 60 meter, had to simul climb.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Stripe Rock : Dykes of Gastonia (5.7)
By: Doug Foust When: Jun 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st pitch is grainy and run out, keep your shoes clean. Fun climb though, placed only one piece of gear the entire climb, the rest was slung horns.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock Lower Tier : Aliens Have Landed (5.10- PG13)
By: Doug Foust When: May 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the start protected fine with a small stopper. You have a good stance to place a stopper above the roof before you pull it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Doug Foust When: Apr 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great line straight up for 1000 feet. We were at gate at 6am, still had 2 parties beat us to the base. One was super fast, the other SUPER SLOW! If I ever repeat, walking in early from the road, you really want to be first on this route.
I can see why it gets so much traffic, the first 7 pitches felt like a gym climb.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Bourbon Street (5.8)
By: Doug Foust When: Mar 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: John-Larry, Awesome route! I like that it has a little bit of everything.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area
By: Doug Foust When: Jan 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the Handren guide, Belief in Proportion to the Evidence, Common Bond of Circumstance, and Radio Free Kansas lines are not shown correctly on the picture.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: Doug Foust When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The chockstone on the first pitch wasn't as bad as it looked, just relax and go with it. The 5.9 handcrack was awesome! I really enjoyed the route, but the loose stuff at the top of the first two rappels wasn't fun.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Doug Foust When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed to the top, thought it was an awesome route. The routefinding seemed pretty straighfoward. I passed the belay spot on the 6th pitch and built a hanging belay about 60ft above. This allowed Mark to link the next two pitches and we ended up topping out in 8 pitches to the big tree ledge. Definately some technical climbing left to get to the top of Mescalito. We did three more short quick pitches still roped up to get to where we could scramble to the summit of Mescalito. Took about 3 hours... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Group Therapy (5.7)
By: Doug Foust When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: bring a #5 if you want to avoid serious runout.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Fold Out (5.8)
By: Doug Foust When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only climbed the first pitch, the crack at the top is fun, too bad it's not more sustained.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Hop Route (5.7)
By: Doug Foust When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start of the first pitch definately gets your attention. I was messing with my friend and took the #5 just to make him have to clean and carry the boat anchor...I was actually quite happy to have it for the first couple of moves.
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