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Member Since: Apr 18, 2009
Last Visit: May 3, 2016
Contact Don MacKenzie

Point Rank: # 9,775
Total Points: 37
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Don MacKenzie been climbing?










Contributions


All 104 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 51 | Stars 21 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

White Slabs

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 (1)

Trad, 3 pitches, 430'

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Snow Creek Wall

Sep 26, 2015

Gargoyle

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (7)

Trad, 1 pitch, 70'

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : Upper Slab and Upper Wall

Sep 10, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Look for the goats to find the base of the route.

Look for the goats to find the base of the route.

WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : White Slabs (5.7 PG13)

Sep 27, 2015

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Snow Creek Wall : White Slabs (5.7 PG13)
By: Don MacKenzie When: Sep 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: My recollection is that the gear for the 5.7 moves was ok, but there may be some 5.5-5.6 moves with less than ideal protection. There is a little loose rock on this route, and the cracks often contain some dirt or moss.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Pisces (5.6)
By: Don MacKenzie When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: I found the hardest move on this route to actually be the traverse left from the top of the 5.4 gully to reach the base of the handcrack.


Location: WA : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lower Town Wall : ... : Great Northern Slab (5.7)
By: Don MacKenzie When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: The "ramp left" from the second belay appeared to be quite overgrown with blackberries today. The easy ramp on the right leads to a couple of nice options to finish, each about 5.6 (if a little balancy).


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : South Bubble : Upper Slab and Upper Wall : Moraviana (5.7)
By: Don MacKenzie When: Sep 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The crux for me was getting off the ledge to gain the final 30' section of crack. Everything before that was pretty easy.

Regarding the route description: the tricky-to-protect left-facing corner can be bypassed via a groove a few feet to the right.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : South Bubble : Upper Slab and Upper Wall : Gargoyle (5.8)
By: Don MacKenzie When: Sep 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I listed this as 5.8 because that's the guidebook rating. But it's certainly no harder than some of the 5.7's at the Precipice.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South... : Trotsky (5.7)
By: Don MacKenzie When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Rating: Definitely full value for the money at 5.7. The moves are all there, if a little thin, but the finicky gear increases the pump.

Gear: sound and adequate to protect against groundfall, but requires attention to detail. Take your time and downclimb for a rest if needed.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Hurricane Crag : Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara (5.7+ PG13)
By: Don MacKenzie When: Jul 25, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: So about this runout on p2... how bad is it?

It's 5.6 if I understand correctly, and you're making face moves until you gain a crack? How far are you going before this crack? Is it 5.6 the whole way?


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8+)
By: Don MacKenzie When: Jul 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: There's not a move harder than 5.8 on this route; the challenge is just that every move in the first 30 feet is solidly 5.8.

To my view, the crux is gaining the pod below the first overhang. Both of the overhangs are actually pretty easy, and like the whole route, are very well protected.

Well protected? You bet. Maybe too well protected. If you don't watch out, you'll end up placing 18 pieces like I did.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Standard Route (5.7)
By: Don MacKenzie When: Jul 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this today (well, pitches 3 and 4 after starting on Toe Crack) and I am going to dissent and say that I think that 5.6R is about right for the third pitch. The moves were maybe on the stiff side for 5.6 but certainly not 5.7+.

I was able to get a medium cam maybe 7 or 8 feet off the ledge. It doesn't protect for long, but it let me go up, clean off some holds, and work out the moves, downclimbing in between. The hardest moves were above this gear, probably looking at a fall back to th... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Conn's West (5.4)
By: Don MacKenzie When: Apr 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I think this used to be 5.3 and the direct finish went at 5.4... those grades seemed more consistent by Seneca standards.

I highly recommend the direct finish.

P1 and P2 can easily be linked with 60m ropes. Try this with a 50 and your belayer will be simul-climbing the initial (very easy) moves.

There's also a direct variation down low that is worth doing. You climb a short, steep corner ("Stupid's Corner") immediately below the start of the chimney. It's probably 5.4 and you really only nee... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Baby (5.6)
By: Don MacKenzie When: May 2, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Great route.
I led it in Oct '06 and the chockstone was still there in OW section at that time. That and a somewhat tipped out #4 Friend were adequate to protect the crux on that pitch.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Ecstasy Junior (5.4)
By: Don MacKenzie When: Apr 18, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Pitch 2 starts with a right-facing corner, not the left-facing corner indicated in the description.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Seneca Rocks - summer months climbingSouthern StatesDon MacKenzieApr 19, 2016
re: Hard/slick rock and passive/active proTrad ClimbingDon MacKenzieJan 19, 2016
re: Washington partnersPacific NorthwestDon MacKenzieJun 20, 2015
re: Routes on The Old Settler/Yak PeakPacific NorthwestDon MacKenzieJun 20, 2015
re: Summiting NW Mts.Pacific NorthwestDon MacKenzieJun 11, 2015
re: Dacks versus SquamishEastern StatesDon MacKenzieJul 11, 2013
re: Suunto Ambit?Climbing Gear DiscussionDon MacKenzieJul 6, 2013
re: Suunto Ambit?Climbing Gear DiscussionDon MacKenzieJul 3, 2013
Suunto Ambit?Climbing Gear DiscussionDon MacKenzieJul 3, 2013
re: North Conway Area Conditions April 27-May 5 Eastern StatesDon MacKenzieMar 12, 2013
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