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Rock Climbing Photo: Moby dick 5.11-


Member Since: Dec 8, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 641
Total Points: 1,184
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1120 | Routes 47 | Areas 10 | Photos 95 | Page Improvements | Comments 89 | Posts 224 | Stars 358 | Ratings 297
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : Eagle Rock : ... : Diurnal pegs (5.11+ R)
By: Dom When: Aug 17, 2012

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Comments: I looked a this route a few times and it looks like there is gear at the start?? I guess I'll have to climb it to find out.


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford
By: Dom When: Aug 10, 2012

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Comments: Hey Ian, Bald Peak is on CFB Gagetown. The parking isn't but the cliff is. Anyways, I'll try to fix all this so that Eagle Rock doesn't get the Access message.


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : Mount Douglas-East Face : ... : Cornifluge (5.12b)
By: Dom When: Aug 9, 2012

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Comments: Can be done with quickdraws only! There is a 15' runout at the end on 5.2 terrain if you don't place gear.


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : Eagle Rock : The Hex Wall
By: Dom When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: Hehe I check it pretty often and saw that you were adding routes on MP. What can I say, I work in front of a computer hehe!


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : Eagle Rock : The Hex Wall
By: Dom When: Aug 1, 2012

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Comments: Hey Ian, you should report these on CEC as well. Most people in NB don't check MP.

W2W looks good.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South... : Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff... (5.10a)
By: Dom When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Was there a pin at the crux once upon a time? Hard to protect the crux I found although I had good gear right underneath me. cool line!


Location: Europe : France : Ceuse : Secture Biograpie : Saint Georges Picos (5.11d)
By: Dom When: Jul 5, 2012

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Comments: I remember climbing this route right after a huge thunderstorm. Biggest one I've seen in my life. Memorable Céuse moment...


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South... : Pipe Dreams (5.12b)
By: Dom When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: This is such a great route. Pins are solid, I tested a few of them, especially the one at the crux ;-)


Location: Europe : Switzerland : Sobrio : Photo
By: Dom When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: faack, that looks sweet!


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : Cochrane Lane Cliffs : ... : Bullwhip days (5.11b)
By: Dom When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: Gear beta.

clip the Astroboy direct anchor. In the first horizontal put a 0.3BD, then a 0.4 BD. Clip the bolt. In the next horizontal, slot a grey metolius, then a 0.75 BD. clip the next two bolts. Then in a long horizontal jug, place a 0.4 BD. Just after place a purple metolius in a small alcove. Finally place a 0.5 BD in a jug on the left. Medium nuts could also be used in a nice vertical crack here. Voilà! All this in 60ft of climbing!


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : Sunnyside : ... : La Duchesse (WI4+ R)
By: Dom When: Jun 27, 2012

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Comments: 15M= 15feet?


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : Mount Douglas-East Face : ... : Cornifluge (5.12b)
By: Dom When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: yétait temps que tu starts à rajouter des routes sur MP hehe good job sur la send, j'ai hâte d'embarquer dessus


Location: ME : Acadia National Park
By: Dom When: Jun 14, 2012

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Comments: As an Acadian it is my duty to inform you guys on the history of the name. =)

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acadians

Now how many of you knew that Cajun comes from 'Cadien' that comes from 'Acadien'?

Jeff Butterfield failed to mention anything about the Acadians in the 'Area History' which I think is unfortunate. In his defense, Acadians never lived on the Island. Nevertheless, if you use Acadia, you should talk about Acadians in the history of your book.


Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Parks Pond Bluff : Mushroom Wall : Easter Island (5.10b R)
By: Dom When: Jun 10, 2012

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Comments: R rated?? With gear this is a very safe route. G even. Very nice route!


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill : Lowwer Tier : Rocky Road (5.11c)
By: Dom When: Jun 9, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was the same difficulty as Rock Steady


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill
By: Dom When: Jun 9, 2012

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Comments: Also known as BALD CLOUD BEAR MOUTAIN


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Kingston Crag : Jester Wall : Jester (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Jun 7, 2012

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Comments: A little history on the route as I have the FFA. The original way I did it had the crux at the start using the very crappy shallow mono. I used the arête at the top and graded it 5.11 a or b. I went on it onsight and just climbed it. After that many people found better beta at the crux to the right where you skip the mono beta altogether. This is where the downgrade comes from. I think the route is now a 5.10c. Not using the arête at the top would be ridiculous as it's right there. Eliminates ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Photo
By: Dom When: May 28, 2012

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Comments: Yep!


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Odyssey : Penelope (5.10a)
By: Dom When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: 6a+ is supposed to be 5.10b but I agree that this climb feels more like a 10a, maybe even 5.9+... Nice nonetheless


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Odyssey : Circe (5.10c)
By: Dom When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: I agree that Athena was easier


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Syblegades Rocks : Drama (5.10b)
By: Dom When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: I climbed something like 10 routes at Sybleglades the day I was there and this was my favourite route of the day. Very good climbing!


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : The Beach
By: Dom When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: I disagree with you. While I only climbed one 10a that was really sharp, I'd have to say that the 5.12's are beautiful, aesthetic climbs that aren't sharp at all. If you come here to climb 5.8,9,10s, then ya maybe it's not a good idea but the two or three 5.12s here are definitely worth it. Plus you get to swim and climb! bonus!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : Social Outcast (5.12a) : Photo
By: Dom When: Apr 27, 2012

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Comments: Perhaps, but I hate it when people solo in front of me. Maybe you don't. Good for you. Sure I've soloed before, but I've never gone soloing where I know people will be. Why would I do that? To prove myself? The fact that his guy is soloing a classic route in August in Rumney is what I find dumb. He knew people would be there. If you want to solo fine, but don't involve others. If others are at the crag then they will inexorably be involved if something bad was to happen.


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill : Lowwer Tier : Groovin (5.12b)
By: Dom When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: Probably the best 12 I've climbed in the Province! This route has got a lot of different style in it. Balancy, slopey, powerful, compressed, reachy with a no hands rest in the middle. All this in 50ft of climbing. Beautiful!


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Bald Hill : Lowwer Tier : Face The Pockets (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: I dunno why the first bolt is so high? It's not hard climbing to get to it but with loose rock in that wide crack a fall there is a possibility. The rest is better climbing than what I expected.


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