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Rock Climbing Photo: Moby dick 5.11-


Member Since: Dec 8, 2007
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Point Rank: # 650
Total Points: 1,184
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1121 | Routes 47 | Areas 10 | Photos 95 | Page Improvements | Comments 89 | Posts 225 | Stars 358 | Ratings 297
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South... : High Wire (5.11c)
By: Dom When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: I left a stuck nut right at the crux. I think a hammer w/ a nut tool will be necessary to get it out. I certainly couldn't with a single nut tool.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : La cha-cha d’Obélix (5.10c/d)
By: Dom When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Awesome route! Very technical!
I'm not sure why the guidebook talks so much about a #2 - in a shallow spot?
4-5 inches directly below this "OK" placement is a bomber blue Metolius or 0.3 BD.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Quebec City, Charlevoix, Po... : Lac Long : ... : Ballet Classique (5.10b)
By: Dom When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: Crux is at the bolt. The rest is 5.9ish. Fun route. Could use more traffic.


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : McQuirks Mountain : Fifty Mission Cap (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Best route that I've climbed at McQuirks and one of NB's best route!

FYI - A 70 M rope does not get you back to the ground. You will have to downclimb about 15 feet of 5.0. Tie Knots at the end of your rope!


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Bas-Saint-Laurent : Saint-Andre-de-Kamouraska : ... : Pericolosso Sporgersi (5.11b)
By: Dom When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Don't listen to the uninspiring description. This route has sick moves on great stone and a wild finish. What else can one ask for?


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Bas-Saint-Laurent : Saint-Andre-de-Kamouraska : ... : As de pique (5.11c)
By: Dom When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: This line merges with Moby Dick once you gain the lip.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Bas-Saint-Laurent : Saint-Andre-de-Kamouraska : ... : Pierre Volante (5.12a)
By: Dom When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: Deadpoint?


Location: Mark E Dixon : Avatars : Photo
By: Dom When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: Helmet in a gym. I've seen it all.
Not criticizing, simply intrigued - Is this by personal choice or is this mandatory at this specific gym?


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Bas-Saint-Laurent : Saint-Andre-de-Kamouraska : ... : Joker (5.11d)
By: Dom When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: It has its own anchor.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Bas-Saint-Laurent : Saint-Andre-de-Kamouraska : ... : Hommage à Radoth (5.11d)
By: Dom When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: Un vrai 11d.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Bas-Saint-Laurent : Saint-Andre-de-Kamouraska : ... : Salle d'attente (Graffiti) (5.12a)
By: Dom When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: I would echo the comment regarding the pre-hung draw and add that I like to have a nice 25cm draw there.


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Welsford : Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Cave Area
By: Dom When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments:



Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Central Scrutinizer (5.9)
By: Dom When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: @Train4life - I think you put the finger on it.

My climbing area has a ton of gear protected slabs filled with tiny cracks akin to what you can find on this route.

Cheers,


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Apoplexy (5.9)
By: Dom When: Oct 9, 2014

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Comments: This line is wonderful. Spicy crux down low leads to great flowy climbing above. The roof was full of jugs and i would call it 5.7...I also didn't use anything above a 0.75 despite bringing up to a #3.
I didn't protect the flake deeming too loose and had I fallen there, I estimate that it would've been real close to a deck fall, hence the PG rating. YMMV.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Tacit (5.12a)
By: Dom When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments:



Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Area : Drug Dome : ... : Photo
By: Dom When: Jan 31, 2013

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Comments: Man that looks thin!!!

Signed - A Canadian :)


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Central Scrutinizer (5.9)
By: Dom When: Dec 14, 2012

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Comments: I don't understand why so many people feel this is a 4 star route?...I didn't find anything special with this route and am puzzled what so many people found so awesome about it.

Anyways, just thought I'd rant a little, after all it's just rock climbing :-).


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Boneyard : Flying Serpents (5.12a)
By: Dom When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: When I sent this thing I just couldn't stop to clip the last bolt so I took the decision to skip it altogether. Falling from the top probably would've resulted in decking. I remember thinking it wasn't well bolted but haven't been on it since so maybe I was wrong then?


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Giant Man (5.12b/c)
By: Dom When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Hey What's the deal with the monster detached jug just beneath the second to last bolt? Has it been reinforced? Seems terribly hollow and that would certainly be a widow maker if it came down...

Nice route, the crux is definitely getting to the jug just above the anchor. The rest is 5.11 except maybe for one small easier crux in the middle.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Millenium Falcon (5.10c)
By: Dom When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: I climbed it last weekend and thought it was mildly overrated. Sure it's a nice climb but IMO, is definitely not the best 5.10 in Rumney.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : Social Distortion (5.12a/b)
By: Dom When: Sep 11, 2012

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Comments: Cool S. Neoh. What I said didn't have a link with what you said. Just thought I'd post that this is a climb that would be easier for taller climbers.

The climber I was with is also 5'6'' and he had to do an extra super crimpy move.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : Social Distortion (5.12a/b)
By: Dom When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: By looking at the 'crux' picture, I can tell that the route can feel easier if you're tall. I'm 5'9'' and I had to do an intermediate move to get to where he is on the picture. That intermediate move was definitely the crux.


Location: North America : Canada : New Brunswick : Gondola Point : My Mother Is A Half Motorbo... (5.10a)
By: Dom When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: If I remember correctly the start of this route is damn hard. Something like a V2/V3?
Best route at the cliff!


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Dom When: Aug 29, 2012

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Comments: I'll second the 'climb the Kurt's Corner variation'. Very Beautiful dihedral. After the dihedral, head right to find some gear to belay off of.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Henry (5.11b)
By: Dom When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: I thought I was going to get hurt on this climb. The onsight felt spicy! Yep Very atypical of the Red.


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