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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Soul Fire (5.11-)
By: doctor When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA by David Bloom 2002
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Vegetarian Corner (5.10)
By: doctor When: Mar 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA by David Bloom/Jamie Blythe-2002
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : Gunshy wall : Hatchett Men (5.12-)
By: doctor When: Mar 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Cole, it's actually further to the right. You stay in the main draw a few minutes longer than for the rest of the Marg's routes. If you could keep traversing the limestone band safely to the right it's probably 100 yds to the right of their unfinished route. So it is on the Gunshy wall but you can't see it for a few minutes after you see Gunshy, from below. Aerial Boundaries, in the guide is 100 yds furher to the right(east).Check it out if you're in the area, Dave
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Doctor's Office & The P... : Linger Fickin Good! (5.11+ A0)
By: doctor When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route goes free at 12+ F.A. Rodney Blakemore, and is called Synesthesia as a free climb. FYI the first 40' make a great 11a, and has a lowering station.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Tramp ("Trick... (5.10+ C2+)
By: doctor When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to take anything away from Rocco and his 2002 clean ascent, but I climbed Tricks clean in 1998, used only 20 or so feet of aid, and it was done with an rp and small aliens. No cam hook required. Also the descent is a b*tch as described here. You can rap the route, but there is one one bolt belay on the headwall, all the other anchors had 2 bolts. The Dr.
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Smilin' Jay (5.10c)
By: doctor When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's called Smilin Jay. 10c
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : The Planetarium : Alien Friction (5.12b)
By: doctor When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only bolted route shortly right of Galactic hitchhiker is Alien Friction, 2 pitches 12b, maybe never sent and never properly cleaned. It also has a shorter second pitch.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : The Planetarium : Starship Trooper (5.11a)
By: doctor When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 11a is called Starship Trooper. Lunar Lander is the 12a left of Mission to Mars(12c)
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : The Planetarium : Apollo 13 (5.10c/d)
By: doctor When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is called Apollo 13, is 10/10+, has a short second pitch and was put up by Rich Ludwig and the Rodman. It shares the Space Cowboy anchor at the end of pitch one.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Christmas Tree (5.12+)
By: doctor When: Feb 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Chris ,thanks for lowering that anchor. One of the most dramatic climbing moments i've witnessed was a friend of mine onsighting this beast. He was resting his shoulder on that first big block of choss when it broke. He fell and ripped about 5 tcu's before a green alien held. He probably fell about 50 feet and technically blew the onsight.. So although the crack appears to not change size it actually gets a little bigger as you go, so i suggest about 7 blue tcus followed by 7 green aliens, ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : Firecat Spire : Do A Little Dance (5.10b/c)
By: doctor When: Jan 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my first FA's in Sedona. 1995 I think. The Doctor.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : North Mesa : Fat Bastard (5.11- R)
By: doctor When: Jan 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mattson and Burcham did the FA on TR after doing The Hurricane. For some unknown reason I decided to lead the thing. Anyone else been on the sharp end of this bad boy? The Doctor
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : Lower Religion Wall : "tween" (5.11a)
By: doctor When: Jan 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is called The Locomotion. I did the FA about 10 years ago. The doctor
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