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Looking down the first crux pitch, Ellingwood Ledges, 2002 - Jay Evans photo.


Member Since: Dec 21, 2011
Last Visit: 17 mins ago
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All (218) | Routes (18) | Areas (5) | Photos (106) | Comments (53) | Posts (17) | Stars (18) | Ratings (1)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: docsavage When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: The SW Ridge is classic the same way some old movies are classic. Not as measured against sound & visual effects or acting styles today but for the leap in possibilities they represented at the time. For some the sight of the SW Ridge silhouetted against the setting sun is compelling enough to overcome the mediocre rock itself, for others that won't matter a darn. Top-to-top approach is highly recommended. Also recommend simul climbing for those inclined - huge stretches in between the first... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : The Pope's Nose : Contraceptive Cracks (5.10 A3-)
By: docsavage When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: I had strained my lower back, Ken, as you may recall, & Paul caught some stomach virus ... my high point was the bolted stance below the roof where you took the pic above. Would like nothing better than to go back & tidy up loose ends ... however, once that starts, it might never end. Good job on filling out the page here.... I wonder if someone PM'd you some months back on beta for the Pope's Nose. He emailed me first, & I said you were the man to talk to, especially since I experienced a ca... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : North Buttress (5.10a)
By: docsavage When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: 'Burly' is the right word for P5 ... is it just me or is that 'chimney' following the finger crack not one of the most sandbag 5.8s the Valley has to offer ... ?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: So that's how that is done ...


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Moon
By: docsavage When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: The third buttress is a bit more fractured but there's a definite line on it. While you're at it check out the west side of Cowcatcher (directly across the canyon) - depending on rock quality there's a potential bodacious multi-pitch free climb there....


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Clarks Cramps (5.9)
By: docsavage When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: Clark - I never knew that story. I had always thought it to be more along the lines of Robbie Baker on Chicken Chop Suey ...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : No Questa About It (5.9) : Photo
By: docsavage When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: I thought I saw a rope going down & across ... turns out it's an optical illusion. Footgear might have been a giveaway except Dave actually climbed the route wearing my old Pivetta klettershuh - he forgot his EBs down below. Thanks for the pic, though ... it's an amazing location....


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : No Questa About It (5.9) : Photo
By: docsavage When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Jason - how does my route description jibe with your experience? I was going strictly from memory especially in regards to difficulty....


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: docsavage When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Bill - your post reminds me of my first time on the Knife Edge in December 1975. Party of four roping through a rime-encrusted W to finish with a rappel & traverse to the Ramp right at sunset (that comes no later than 6 PM in winter), descending by headlamp & somehow winding up on the Movie Trail ...

'Such is youth' - Herman Melville.

On the plus side this does put you right back at your car. That last bit of trail/road slogging (if you didn't leave a vehicle) can get a bit tedious....


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Yikes! ... exposure.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: docsavage When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Steven VanSickle - Intriguing approach for a top-to-top ascent of the Knife Edge. I'll have to try it some time. What I like about Piedra Lisa-Chimney Canyon though (or La Luz, or tram descent) is it gives the whole project a mountaineering feel....


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : Northeast Corner (5.6)
By: docsavage When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: There would be no shame in upgrading this pitch. NE Corner was my second climb in the Sandias. In 1974 my partner & I came across a mutual friend (Paul Seibert) who had just led it. His wife (Linda) could not follow. I graciously volunteered thinking it would be at least a good warmup for our own project that day, Mexican Breakfast Crack. Instead it darn near ruined my self esteem for that second ascent. At the top Paul suggested it was a tad harder than 5.6. And I timidly agreed. 5.8- s... more >>


Location: International : Africa : Kenya : Mt Kenya : Southeast Face of Nelion (1... (5.8) : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 15, 2013

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Comments: Awesome!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Check out the original drawing by Rick Charron ...


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Waterfall Canyon : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Those interested in perusing these artifacts may find them on these other pages in Mountain Project:

El Malpais
Organ Mountains
The Tooth


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : 1096 (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: The New Mexico Climber, Fall 1977, page 4. Other scans of this historical artifact may be found here:

www.mountainproject.com/v/107993029#a_107993049
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994190#a_107994191
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994697#a_107994707
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994820#a_107994827


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Its goal was to record the many routes going up at the time. While George Bell tracked activity in the Brazos, Mike Hill compiled beta for the Sandias and Dick Ingraham kept an informal log for the Organs there were still no published guidebooks for these areas. It is amusing to remember how much effort went into each edition of The Climber. Thankfully there was never any lack of contributors but... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Those interested in perusing these artifacts may find them on these other pages in Mountain Project:

www.mountainproject.com/v/107993029#a_107993049
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994820
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994839
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994190#a_107994191


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 8, 2013

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Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Those interested in perusing these artifacts may find them on these other pages in Mountain Project:

www.mountainproject.com/v/107993029#a_107993049
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994697
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994820
www.mountainproject.com/v/107994839


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 7, 2013

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Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Its goal was to record the many routes going up at the time. While George Bell tracked activity in the Brazos, Mike Hill compiled beta for the Sandias and Dick Ingraham kept an informal log for the Organs there were still no published guidebooks for these areas. It is amusing to remember how much effort went into each edition of The Climber. Thankfully there was never any lack of contributors but... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Northwest Ridge (5.5)
By: docsavage When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: The Northwest Ridge goes so many different ways it seems a bit silly to try & tweak it. Nevertheless from having soloed it a half dozen times since 1976 here are a few tips to make it the most enjoyable experience:

1) When in doubt, go left. This holds for everything except P3.

2) On P3 where going left leads to the ring piton variation you can avoid this dirty, loose & exposed pitch by taking a more center line trending right toward the 'squeeze variation' (more of a wide dihedral actually ... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Photo
By: docsavage When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: The weather is much better now ... ;)


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Jan 12, 2013

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Comments: And I can remember looking up from the base & thinking: 'You have got to be kidding!' Three days later we were up ...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Jan 12, 2013

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Comments: Sweet ... that's an angle you don't usually get.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Mt. Cosmic Debris (5.10) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: If memory serves one of the W side routes takes the prominent crack system on the right. Two pitches, 5.8 - Black Hole - it's better than the name might imply (gets a bit gritty at the top). One of the neater summits to stand on however you get to it....


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