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Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the first crux pitch, Ellingwood Ledg...


Member Since: Dec 21, 2011
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 287 | Routes 18 | Areas 5 | Photos 127 | Page Improvements | Comments 57 | Posts 61 | Stars 18 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: FWIW, it is possible to escape the direct start after P2...this would be right where the '5.7' notation is in this photo...if there happens to be a party ahead of you kicking down a large amount of rubble as there was for us & as it is nearly impossible not to do.... Follow the grassy ramp left to intersect with the original line.... Here is a photo looking down on that traverse, that is from the top of our P3:

Rock Climbing Photo: P3 traverse off Direct Start, Ellingwood Ledges, 2...
P3 traverse off Direct Start, Ellingwood Ledges, 2002....


Also do pay close attention to the descent info presented by numero... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Fat City, Indian School : Upper Fat City Drainage
By: docsavage When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: The installation of the flood control dam in the late 70s was a game changer for Embudo all right. On the one hand it weeded out the staminally challenged ... no longer was it necessary to dodge the bullets fired by drunken paramilitary types from the parking lot below ... nowadays the only danger is of stepping in a dog turd on the trail up ... on the other hand it got harder to squeeze in a few hours of bouldering on weeknights after classes ... in some ways it was the end of an era ... Embud... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Upper Mound (main upper clu... : The Manatee (V4-5)
By: docsavage When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: Dave - English major - it has to be good for something, right? [BTW the offensive claws has been removed].

For the record the vid above is of the FA, done with no pads (what is a pad?) & barely any spotters (witness .20 onward) ... Dave & others had worked on it for months (or 'projected' as the kids say these days) ... the final send came on a louring winter day when I just happened to be there with my dad's super 8 camera ... not sure who first dubbed it the Manatee, we always just c... more >>


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : Photo
By: docsavage When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: King Rat!-tler ...


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Aviary Ort Overhangs (5.9)
By: docsavage When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: I did this in the fall of 1978. No one at that time would have considered rapping after 2 pitches. Since that option is on the table let me mention 2 factors to consider for the last pitch:

1) Communication is nil
2) Rock is awfully loose after the lichen filled dihedral

There is a hair raising story that goes with these 2 notes ... but leave that for another day. Aviary Ort in my mind stands as that rare Sandias climb that is neither over nor underrated....


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: docsavage When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: The SW Ridge is classic the same way some old movies are classic. Not as measured against sound & visual effects or acting styles today but for the leap in possibilities they represented at the time. For some the sight of the SW Ridge silhouetted against the setting sun is compelling enough to overcome the mediocre rock itself, for others that won't matter a darn. Top-to-top approach is highly recommended. Also recommend simul climbing for those inclined - huge stretches in between the first... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : Pine River Trad : The Pope's Nose : Contraceptive Cracks (5.10 A3-)
By: docsavage When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: I had strained my lower back, Ken, as you may recall, & Paul caught some stomach virus ... my high point was the bolted stance below the roof where you took the pic above. Would like nothing better than to go back & tidy up loose ends ... however, once that starts, it might never end. Good job on filling out the page here....


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : North Buttress (5.10a)
By: docsavage When: Dec 22, 2013

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Comments: 'Burly' is the right word for P5 ... is it just me or is that 'chimney' following the finger crack not one of the most sandbag 5.8s the Valley has to offer ... ?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : The Whale : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: So that's how that is done ...


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Moon
By: docsavage When: Sep 7, 2013

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Comments: The third buttress is a bit more fractured but there's a definite line on it. While you're at it check out the west side of Cowcatcher (directly across the canyon) - depending on rock quality there's a potential bodacious multi-pitch free climb there....


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Clarks Cramps (5.9)
By: docsavage When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: Clark - I never knew that story. I had always thought it to be more along the lines of Robbie Baker on Chicken Chop Suey ...


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : No Questa About It (5.9) : Photo
By: docsavage When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: I thought I saw a rope going down & across ... turns out it's an optical illusion. Footgear might have been a giveaway except Dave actually climbed the route wearing my old Pivetta klettershuh - he forgot his EBs down below. Thanks for the pic, though ... it's an amazing location....


Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : No Questa About It (5.9) : Photo
By: docsavage When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: Jason - how does my route description jibe with your experience? I was going strictly from memory especially in regards to difficulty....


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: docsavage When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Bill - your post reminds me of my first time on the Knife Edge in December 1975. Party of four roping through a rime-encrusted W to finish with a rappel & traverse to the Ramp right at sunset (that comes no later than 6 PM in winter), descending by headlamp & somehow winding up on the Movie Trail ...

'Such is youth' - Herman Melville.

On the plus side this does put you right back at your car. That last bit of trail/road slogging (if you didn't leave a vehicle) can get a bit tedious....


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Yikes! ... exposure.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: docsavage When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Steven VanSickle - Intriguing approach for a top-to-top ascent of the Knife Edge. I'll have to try it some time. What I like about Piedra Lisa-Chimney Canyon though (or La Luz, or tram descent) is it gives the whole project a mountaineering feel....


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Donald Duck : Northeast Corner (5.8-)
By: docsavage When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: There would be no shame in upgrading this pitch. NE Corner was my second climb in the Sandias. In 1974 my partner & I came across a mutual friend (Paul Seibert) who had just led it. His wife (Linda) could not follow. I graciously volunteered thinking it would be at least a good warmup for our own project that day, Mexican Breakfast Crack. Instead it darn near ruined my self esteem for that second ascent. At the top Paul suggested it was a tad harder than 5.6. And I timidly agreed. 5.8- s... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : U-Mound : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Check out the original drawing by Rick Charron ...


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Waterfall Canyon : ... : Photo
By: docsavage When: Mar 4, 2013

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Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Those interested in perusing these artifacts may find them on these other pages in Mountain Project:

El Malpais
Organ Mountains
The Tooth


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : 1096 (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: The New Mexico Climber, Fall 1977, page 4. Other scans of this historical artifact may be found here:

mountainproject.com/v/10799302...
mountainproject.com/v/10799419...
mountainproject.com/v/10799469...
mountainproject.com/v/10799482...


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 9, 2013

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Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Its goal was to record the many routes going up at the time. While George Bell tracked activity in the Brazos, Mike Hill compiled beta for the Sandias and Dick Ingraham kept an informal log for the Organs there were still no published guidebooks for these areas. It is amusing to remember how much effort went into each edition of The Climber. Thankfully there was never any lack of contributors but... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Those interested in perusing these artifacts may find them on these other pages in Mountain Project:

mountainproject.com/v/10799302...
mountainproject.com/v/10799482...
mountainproject.com/v/10799483...
mountainproject.com/v/10799419...


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Those interested in perusing these artifacts may find them on these other pages in Mountain Project:

mountainproject.com/v/10799302...
mountainproject.com/v/10799469...
mountainproject.com/v/10799482...
mountainproject.com/v/10799483...


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Photo
By: docsavage When: Feb 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The New Mexico Climber was a climbing newsletter that ran intermittently through the late 1970s. Its goal was to record the many routes going up at the time. While George Bell tracked activity in the Brazos, Mike Hill compiled beta for the Sandias and Dick Ingraham kept an informal log for the Organs there were still no published guidebooks for these areas. It is amusing to remember how much effort went into each edition of The Climber. Thankfully there was never any lack of contributors but... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Northwest Ridge (5.6)
By: docsavage When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: The Northwest Ridge goes so many different ways it seems a bit silly to try & tweak it. Nevertheless from having soloed it a half dozen times since 1976 here are a few tips to make it the most enjoyable experience:

1) When in doubt, go left. This holds for everything except P3.

2) On P3 where going left leads to the ring piton variation you can avoid this dirty, loose & exposed pitch by taking a more center line trending right toward the 'squeeze variation' (more of a wide dihedral actually ... more >>


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