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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : The Moratorium (5.11b)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 belay is more of a rappel. The chains are easy to miss in action. Building gear anchor on one of the small flake ledges in the crack worked better for us. 70m could link 1st 2 pitches for a mega endurance pitch. Haven't tried it yet.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Conductor Crack (5.10d)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt harder than Butterballs 11c. 11d? There is no move on Bb that is harder than the 1st 20 feet of this climb. Bb is just long. This climb is awkward.
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Location: International : South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Quebrada Paron : ... : Photo
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Jul 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went through the middle weekness in the roof. That worked well, though I had a take there.
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Location: International : South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Quebrada Paron : ... : The Original Route (5.10d R)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Jul 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: We carried/hauled our sleeping bags to the bivy ledge. Unless you are a sado-masochist, I do not recommend this option. Most slower parties fix the lower pitches on the first day and climb the rest of the route the next day.
Nonetheless, I must say that it was fun to sleep on the ledge.
The next day, we threw our stuff down the wall. Totally illegal! And I was sorry I opted for this scenario as there were people below us.
Did a lot of damage to our gear. Tie your bag opening real well and ... more >>
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Location: International : South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Quebrada Paron
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Jun 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
2009/2010 Revised Edition
Guidebook by Brad Johnson
Spanish language book by Desnivel. Not very detailed but includes
Cordillera Huayhuash and many other routes not in Johnson's book.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress : Gill's Nose (5.11c) : Photo
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Jun 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just out there!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Catenary Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Apr 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Burt Linquist on belay saves the day with a handy belay and a photogenic shirt! Thanks Burt!
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Land of the Free (5.12b)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Jan 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome adventure! This route needs more traffic. So, skip Potrero cleaning days and go clean some weeds and rocks off this route.
The first pitch 11d pocketed "face" is the money pitch and the crux of the original line IMO. A very rude awakening.
The 11c/d pitch before the last one (12b), seemed way easier than 10d pitch downstairs. So, it may be a typo.
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Location: International : North America : Mexico
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Jan 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Flying back to the states, do not put ropes or cams into your carry-on.
You will get turned around and will have to pack them into your luggage.
Potrero was very safe. Good time to visit it this year as the place is not busy at all. People not coming down probably due to the economy.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Vivesection (5.11a)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you cannot onsight 5.11a at the lake, check the gear before you go.
Might save you an ankle or more. Gear is really tricky at the start.
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Photo
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Jul 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: At least it was not as hot as Devils Lake.
Outstanding moment!
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: May 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the season for the Hulk?
Is it climbable around Memorial Day ever?
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : Ten High (5.10+)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Apr 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I attempted to climb a variation of this route. Instead of going right after the initial double crack section, I rejoined "Early Times" at the bolts. From the ledge, there goes an obvious right slanting crack.
More than anything, the crack is committing at the last move as you would be climbing 5.10 above the ET ledge with no gear to keep you from bouncing off it (which I did a little bit).
Is this an established variation?
I pulled off a huge flake on the head wall. So, it does not get c... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Stretcher (5.9+) : Photo
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, exactly Nick. A formality in case the park rangers or tourists happen to watch. :)
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Prime Rib (5.9+)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Nov 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice lead with a little gearless run above thin gear towards the top. Don't skip any gear ops. Should be attempted by a confident 9+ leader only. Gave it pg13 based on the difficulty of finding good gear in 1 spot. Is this right?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Moldy Buttress : Tibia Crack (5.8)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An honest 5.8+
Could climb like 5.9 on first lead.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Flatus (5.11b)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: R - if the bolts hold, X - otherwise
D - if you fall just before clipping the first bolt.
D = Deck
Note: this spray is under Flatus, not F3D
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Flatus (5.11b) : Photo
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Patch it over with some reddish Gu :)
Not many tourists go there, Nick.
The practice would be abhorrent though.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Flatus (5.11b)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Surprised to see no X on this climb's rating. I guess it is obvious at the Lake. Till someone tries to onsight this cookie...
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Photo
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hide this quick! They, who see it, will swarm in droves to our beloved lake.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Mouse's Misery (5.10a R)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Felt easier than Congrats. Rating is a little on a soft side. Gear is there. Even the traverse is protectable. What's the definition of R?
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R)
By: Dmitriy Litvak When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Offwidth is too soft for Cannon ratings ...
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