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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Bobby's Back (5.10d)
By: djoseph When: Jun 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock to the left of the little tree branch (slightly below the anchors) felt rather loose yesterday... careful, as it could come down on the belayer. If someone clears it, let me know and I'll delete this comment. Thanks.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Mosquito Burrito (5.8)
By: djoseph When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great climb! Commenting here in part to say that I'm surprised at the 9+ ratings that this is receiving. I'd suggest 8+ ... perhaps 9- at most. To compare to some nearby climbs across the creek at Watermark, it seems to be harder than Road to Isengard (5.8) but slightly easier than The Memory of Trees (5.9).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock
By: djoseph When: Sep 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Greg. I'll probably wait another few weeks until the leaves drop from the bushes... probably will be easy to find the path then.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Retirement Rock
By: djoseph When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Question on the approach: we crossed the creek at the 30 mph sign (not 20, per the description) across from Nursing Home, and came to a clearing with a cairn. However, couldn't see a path and didn't want to crash through the rather thick brush if there is a trail somewhere...I prefer to limit impact on the foliage. Is there a path/trail that I missed, or do you have to bushwhack through?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Tony Bubb's Little Stick (5.10d)
By: djoseph When: Jul 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: History and controversy aside, I think this is a fun route. If you stay completely off the block to the left (LJBS), it seemed like a nice 10a route with a 10+ tricky section before the ledge. Squeezed? Yes... but still a nice climb. Two stars in my estimation.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Tese (5.10)
By: djoseph When: Jul 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great climb. With the new extension, there are four sections: a thin slabby part followed by a blocky roof section, then a fun arete and finally a relaxed corner at the top. Agree with Bob that this is one of the best 10s in the canyon. Thanks Greg and Bob for extending it! (Note that you need 11 draws plus anchors... skipped the alien myself, and seemed fine.)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Mists of Avalon (5.10a)
By: djoseph When: May 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! One of the best 10s at Avalon. Moves over the roof felt a bit tougher than 10a... but perhaps they're 10a if you have good roof technique. Fun thin slab climbing above. Really a great line.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Mystery Ship (5.10a)
By: djoseph When: May 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 5/17, the sixth (I think) bolt's nut and hanger were extremely loose. I tightened by hand... but if anyone has a hex wrench or whatever is used to tighten nuts, might want to bring it.
On the route: Straight up the bolt line, this seemed quite harder than 10a on the headwall... probably 10c or so. I found the clipping stance really insecure with a ledge-fall potential. So that colored my perception.
Don't know if it's the clipping stances, the lichen/moss, or what, but this is one of the... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Wizard Rock : Snow Crash (5.10b)
By: djoseph When: May 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. Mostly 5.9ish up a narrow arrete until a mid-10 thoughtful sequence between the fifth and sixth bolts. Worth the stroll over if you're at the third tier of Avalon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark : The Memory of Trees (5.9)
By: djoseph When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the nicest 9s in the canyon. Worth a trip to Watermark for this and Twin Peaks. Sometimes crowded on summer days. Needs almost all of a 60m rope.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Hip Replacement (5.10+)
By: djoseph When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Ron's assessment, above. This felt like a fun, interesting V1/V2 boulder problem (easier for tall folks) followed by a short bit of 5.8 climbing. Recommend a stick clip or a crash pad and spotters for the first bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Sundowning (5.9+)
By: djoseph When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somewhat interesting, short climb. There are probably a couple of 9+ moves around the second bolt. However, some of the holds/seams were quite dirty. You might want to bring a brush to clean some of the loose debris on the holds. The flake at the start of Lost Dentures can also use a good brushing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : The Twilight Kid (5.11-)
By: djoseph When: Oct 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a wonderful climb. If you like balancy, delicate moves, definitely check it out.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : The Luminosity (5.9)
By: djoseph When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best sport 9s that I've been on in BC. Interesting moves and great views. This and The Memory of Trees at Watermark are my favorites at the grade.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: djoseph When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Though I told them in person, I wanted to publicly thank Ron and Bob for their work at Tonnere. Great lines -- many beginner-friendly -- and the luxury of hooks (instead of rings) at certain anchor points. Thanks for the time, effort, and imagination that went into making Tonnere a great spot.
- Dan
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Bobby's Back (5.10d)
By: djoseph When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun little line. If you like thin slab stuff, give it a try. Climbing slightly left of the bolts, seemed like a couple 11 moves. Otherwise 10c/d. Didn't know how to rate it due to the variations. Enjoyed playing on it, though.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Twilight Time (5.10a)
By: djoseph When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pleasant line. I believe (?) that in addition to the anchor, the last bolt is also shared with Bobby's Back. At least, I clipped it. Nice hooks for anchors!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Tree Line (5.9)
By: djoseph When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good climb for newcomers to outdoor routes. If memory serves, the line can be climbed using the crack system to the left of the bolts (which probably goes at around 5.8), or on the face to the right of the bolts (probably 5.9).
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