Contributed Comments |
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Arch Direct (5.9)
By: divnamite When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Is it really worth doing? I have done Arch many times, and I always look at it as a silly variation that FA party did because they got bored.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Wonderland (5.8)
By: divnamite When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun fun route. Bolt protects the interesting crux, everything else is just fun and enjoyable.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Absurdland (5.8)
By: divnamite When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think it's a sandbagged route. It's definitely 5.8 range with some of sustained 5.7 climbing, then ease off when getting to the top. A gold camalot works fine, you can also plug many other pieces in, but the gold is the most obvious one.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Alley Oop (5.7)
By: divnamite When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good and fun climb, the crux is really the start, so don't blow it. It's not as bad as it looks. The roof is fun and well protected. Go ahead and do it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: divnamite When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The correct route is to go up right side of the piece, and then traverse back left. It's not the direct neither. It's further left of the corner.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Blueberry Ledges (5.5 PG13)
By: divnamite When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is ok, nothing to write home about. Where is the belay on pitch 1? Right above the roof?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Bloody Mary (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think the PG13 is for the first pitch. I haven't done P2 in awhile, but I vaguely remember some run out on pitch 2 right after the roof.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Strictly From Nowhere (5.7)
By: divnamite When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent climb! Crux is the roof, bring some small cams. Protect your follower after the crux, otherwise, it's a swing into air.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Hawk (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 is not the same as before the rock fall. A lot of loose pebble and rocks on each of the ledges. Pros and moves are slightly more difficult. Not for a new 5.4 leader.
Pitch 2, the route finding is easy if you remember to stay below the pins. Just keep traverse right and follow the natural line.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Bloody Mary (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree with Pitch 2 being money pitch. It's not really that hard. A bit run out, but the face is a little dirty. New 5.7 leader will have rope drag because the leader needs to protected the traverse. Pitch 1 is 5.7, only for a couple of moves. A good lead for 5.7.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Wrist (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think P1 is actually 5.5. P2 is the money pitch. I feel like P1 is just another typical corner climb, not very special. Arch P1 to Wrist P2 is much better climb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is short, prolly not worth it compare to Rhododendron. Link up with P2 and P3 of Northern Pillar is more fun.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Bloody Bush (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Feb 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. P1 is steeper than expected, but still 5.5. And protections are there when you need them. P2 is the money pitch, a very fun traverse. Leader should protect the second, if second falls on traverse, you might have to lower the second to ledge and reclimb.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Dennis (5.5)
By: divnamite When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is the overhang start sequence, the low angle slab 15 ft up is fun as well. I don't know if P2 is worth doing, if you link both together, then maybe.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Credibility Gap (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 is the worth doing, don't remember P2 much other than some dirty rocks. My follower backed off twice on the P1's airy exit. Definitely interesting, bring a big cam. I don't remember which one I used, maybe BD #4?
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: divnamite When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb, I linked P1 and P2 together.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Beginner's Delight (5.4)
By: divnamite When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I still can't find the original route (5.3) which is supposed to go diagonally across the face. I was in a hurry so I wasn't paying close attention, but it seems there are no protection on the face. I went up the 5.4 route which is go up the corner and then traverse left. If someone has a nice big photo of original route, please let me know.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Breaker & Very Blocky Walls : Circuit Breaker (5.10)
By: divnamite When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crimp all the way, a lot of fun actually.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area : Easy Rider (5.6 R)
By: divnamite When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good hard climb for beginners. If using bolts up top, be aware that when climbing this face, a fall will swing you quite a bit.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : Scrotum Pole/Drive in Area : Arete I (5.9 R)
By: divnamite When: Sep 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's actually 1 1/2 star.
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