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Location: AZ : Homestead : Finland and Tufa City : Black Sunshine (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, if this didn't have the no-hands rest then it would be quite a bit harder, probably in the 12d/13a range. The bottom half is surprisingly pumpy for not being that steep.
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Location: AZ : Homestead : Rough Rider Wall : Cold Fusion (5.11d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, very sustained for the first 3/4 then a no hands rest to a cool steep section on huge holds.
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Location: AZ : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Razor Burn (5.11c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This one is really really hard for 11c, it is miles harder than it's neighbor "Tales from the Grypt". Also the crux is quite short and all on drilled pockets unfortunately making this no where close to a 4 star route imo.
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Location: AZ : Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Pockets of Resistance (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the harder 12c's at Jack's. This one probably holds up to the grade.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Brett, You're right it is about finding the line or weakness, I only asked because I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing the crux, not that it really matters. I was just looking for something hard at El Rito, and was curious how other people did the top section. In this case if you follow the arete all the way up it puts you pretty far right of the anchors.
Video Beta: You'll notice that I definitly use the arete then move back onto the face.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia : Twinkie (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bottom of this and Phantasia seep pretty badly in a good rain. So while you are sheltered from the rain the starting slab might be pretty wet. So don't plan on these for a rainy day.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Tissue Tiger (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This felt like the hardest route on the wall, the crux of this one is solid. Clipping the last bolt shouldn't be a problem as there are huge jugs just above it, not a good one to try to clip early.
Maybe Kristoffer is referring to the protruding rock 1/2 way up and slightly right. It might be possible to sit on it. I certainly didn't attempt to get a no-hands there though.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Fuzzy Undercling (5.11-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first move off the ground (no stacked rocks) was at least as hard as any of the moves of the 3 5.12's to the left.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Infectious (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unlike what the guidebook says, I didn't think it was over at all once I hit the rail. One or two tricky moves remain.
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : The Kitchen : Rear Burner (V6)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one felt much easier (and less sharp) than "Short Order Cook" to the right.
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Location: NM : Caballo Lake/ T or C : Bat Cave Area : Grey Wall? : Photo
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the description on the photo, It seems pretty obvious that once things cool off we will be back to finish the line to the top. Until then there is plenty of rock there, no need to be adding bolts to existing projects. It was poor form to be adding bolts to an uncompleted project.
Vaino and I will be back this winter to finish bolting the line to the top and add anchors.
As mentioned by me, Lee, and Djkyote many of these lines are still projects and please respect that by not adding bolt... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (15) Blonde Ambition (5.11c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Come on now this is Palomas, part of the game is ignoring those tempting looking cracks so you can crux out on slippery footholds. I actually really liked this one, one of my favorite Palomas 11's. Remember the hard to see jug at the 4th bolt. It is only easy to see once you're past it.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While that is my favorite, that would definitly reduce the number of routes I could climb that night :)
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey I remember that, good time. Sometime Supra and I are going to go there and see how many tower routes we can lead in the dark with a beer between each route. Anyone up for some designated belaying?
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Location: NM : Last Chance Canyon : Mad Cow Wall
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Routes from the Entrance to Hueco Cave. Climbers right to left.
01 Bubbles 5.13b - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
02 Bandit 5.12c/13a - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
03 John Waynes Knee 5.12d/13a - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
04 Rawhide 5.12c - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
05 ChuckWagon 5.12c - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
06 The West Wasn't Won on a Salad 5.12a - ... more >>
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Location: NM : Caballo Lake/ T or C : Bat Cave Area : Photo
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overall the rock is pretty good. The cave looks bullet, although somewhat featureless, the routes going in there will be hard. The route I started on was lower angle so had more large choss blocks, but once those are cleaned off the rock itself will be solid. The difficulty in developing this place is that everything has to go in ground up until you have a line to the top.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : (02) West (Center) Face : (09) Mad Hatter (5.12d) : Photo
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is going on with the rope? Did you solo the first 1/2 to eliminate rope drag?
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : BYOB (5.12+)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finished on the anchor's of Tecate thinking that was the correct anchor since that's what it says in Taos Rock. It certainly looked harder finishing straight up as there was no chalk or obvious holds.
Lee's description of "a long move to a 2 finger pocket off an edge" matches perfectly with what I did finishing on the Tecate anchors though.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : The Dungeon : Main Wall : (06) Siege Warfare (5.12c/d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is hard, took more tries than The Thing, although I wasn't using the best beta for several of those tries. I'd love to call it 12d, but is probably 12c and not my style. Hanging the 4th draw is difficult, but I was able to reach it, and downclimb for a rest.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Unknown (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jul 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So is this climb any good, worth doing? How about a bit more of a description.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The unknown / unfinished 12d at the far left side of this wall, felt really hard (harder than 12d) and is complete choss. Many of the holds felt like they were going to break when pulled on. There was chalk on it though, anyone know if this has been sent?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : (01) Schadenfreude (5.11c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Josh mentions this climb is really reach dependant. I'm 5'6" and the crux moves and the opening move felt hard.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Renaissance Wall : (03) Unknown (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route with awesome movement, quite continuous, it is on from bolts 2 to 5, a sustained boulder problem. From the last bolt to the anchors it is easier but might still feel hard if you're pumped.
Graded 12c in the EFR / Agee guide, but feels substantially harder. I believe that Chris also called it 13a.
FA by Chris Grijalva.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : BYOB (5.12+)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice to have a long draw on the 4th bolt. I thought the crux was getting between the 3rd and 4th bolt.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Texas Whine (5.11c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Would be a good route if it weren't for the dirty loose rock, poor bolts, and the potential to hit the slab in a fall up high. A few of the angle iron hangers have been replaced with regular hangers but the studs weren't long enough, so the nuts aren't threaded all the way.
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