Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
PBR Time at the Creek


Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact DisturbingThePeace


Point Rank: # 73
Total Points: 4,700
Last Year: 181
Last 30 Days: 8
61 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has DisturbingThePeace been climbing?










DisturbingThePeace

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2102 | Routes 342 | Areas 37 | Photos 90 | Page Improvements | Comments 275 | Posts 71 | Stars 1128 | Ratings 159
Page 1 of 11.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Cool, congrats on the FA Ben, and good luck to Ed. It is cool seeing it with chalk on it.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: I think Cody Roth did the FA of this back in the day.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (L. Side) : Ojo (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, this thing feels really hard for 12a, feels like a 12b start to the rest to an 11d/12a finishing head wall. Lee's beta is spot on about z clipping the anchors.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think as George mentions keeping the upper tier climbs separate is a good idea. Otherwise I don't like having too many sub areas as it leads to clicking back and forth a lot to see all the climbs.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: How about lumping the Live, Renaissance, and Renegade sectors back into one area? I agree with sorting out the Dog House and entrance pinnacle, but the other areas being separated when it is one wall adds to the confusion for me.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: What do people think about simplifying this area and re-organizing it into only 2 sub areas, Grotto Left (East) Side and Grotto Right (West) Side? This would make finding individual climbs much easier and simplify things.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Swiss Wall : Swiss Miss (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I disagree, there are many sport climbing areas where to earn the grade and in my opinion to do the climb you avoid using certain features or cracks. On Main wall you avoid stemming to the back wall on "Heart Shaped Box" and "Limestone Cowgirl". To me the 11a stemming way seems like the variation.

Also thanks for sorting the routes!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Liquid Culture (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Great description, I got a good laugh out of it while working this route! While not the best route, it is a worthy 13- objective if it is pouring out (that's how I got sucked in). Some of the lower pockets seep during an extended wet period however. The crux of this felt quite hard compared with other 13a's in the canyon.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Wheel of Karma : Flying Spaghetti Monster (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty fun route, if you have already done the classics at UEF. It is too bad that the climbing weaves around so much. Feels pretty stout for the 12a grade, but the slopers may make this one more condition dependent than most.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Ring Around The Rosie (5.13b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Warning: There is a large loose block on this just above the mid-anchors. It doesn't appear to be connected to the wall anymore only jammed in place. I would be wary of trusting it until I took a crowbar to it. The entrance into the crux still goes without using it. Above the crux there are several sketchy looking blocks as well, that would provide a nice rest, but look like they could rip off. The crux is certainly pretty cool and quite hard, but the rest of line needs some cleaning.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Asian Whore (5.8)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Be careful on the huge hollow flakes between the last bolt and the anchors. Seems like the last bolt could be moved a little higher as well being that clipping the anchors might be the crux. Would be a pretty scary lead for someone at their limit.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Live Sector : Galaga (5.12-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route, remember to hang a hard right at the third bolt, and climb the arete before moving left to the overhanging section.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : Take That Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This one should clean up to be a sought after classic! Only thing that keeps it from being 4 stars is the lack of consistency and a few seeping holds at the bottom (at least with my non-optimized beta).

Edit: Glad to hear that the holds at the start dry out. That handlebar hold towards the top is pretty cool, but it was too thin for me to trust!


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Death Drives a Stick (5.13)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks to whomever replaced all the draws that you clip with cable permadraws. It is nice to not have any questions about draw quality when you're jumping off the finish. It helps to take the time to work out the finishing mantle, it's not too bad once you know where the holds are.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Reprimanda (5.11b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jul 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Second pitch is beautiful, too bad you have to climb the first pitch to get to it. With a few backcleaned bolts at the start and a few long slings, rope drag wasn't bad at all.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : The Amphitheater : Supramanya (5.11d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Been a while since this one's been climbed. The upper headwall is really enjoyable, too bad it's over so soon. Well worth climbing for the steep upper headwall, complete with a Tufa Feature.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've always thought the W section was low 5th class, or at least exposed enough to warrant 5th class, much harder / more exposed than Cabezon IMO.

What is everyone's best car to car time for parking at the Piedra Lisa Trailhead? I've done it in 3 hrs 9 min coming down Chimney Canyon to the La Luz, and I am not a good runner. I'll bet someone with a running background could do it in around 2 hrs. Another way to do it faster might be coming down the side of the shield to the Fletcher trail as B... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : West (Center) Face : The Hunting of the Snark (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A great new addition to the tower, my favorite of the new routes. I like it better than Mad Hatter as it has more independent climbing, with some fun hard moves. Felt like it had harder moves than Mad Hatter but better rests. Even without the Pit Stop I was able to get it all back before the steep section, and there are a few good rests higher on the route. Probably a little harder than Mad Hatter so given the standard 12d grade of Hatter this one is 12d as well and just a touch higher in th... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Renaissance Man (5.12-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sounds like this is the same route as "Whole Lot of Rosie"?? I guess this is probably the correct name since Mike Tupper added it.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Grease Mechanic (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The listed grade of 12- felt like a huge sandbag, felt much much harder than the Grijalva route. My estimate is the grade is somewhere between 12c and 13a, basically a V6 or V7 boulder problem. Also I stick-clipped the 3rd bolt, which is lame, but it didn't seem safe for me otherwise. It would be a big fall low on the route, and while you wouldn't deck you would probably hit your belayer. I fell 4 times going for the hold next to the third bolt.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Or Dare (5.10)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: With a bit of back-cleaning and running out the first pitch I was able to combine this with the first pitch of "The Truth" to lead this in one pitch. I back-cleaned the first two bolts on "The Truth" skipped the mid-anchors and used long slings on a few bolts and the rope drag wasn't bad at all. Able to get down with one rappel with a 70m rope.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (03) The Franks : Dark Dreams (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route hasn't held up all that well since I last climbed it. The glue reinforced crimp between the first and second bolt is loose, while not required does make a nice intermediate. The jug at the third bolt is loose, the tree stump holding it in place is disintegrating, so the hold won't be there much longer. Beware it is an obvious hold and a significant amount of rock and dirt may come out with it. In addition it doesn't look to have been climbed for a while as the pockets at the start... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : 12-pack Link (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Finished this on "To Beer or not to Beer" in an attempt to make this 5.13-, while this sounds contrived since you essentially leave TBONTB to do the crux of BYOB, then work back to the anchors of TBONTB it makes for a good power endurance line with only one decent shake on the route. Don't think it quite makes it to 5.13 though.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Link to forum thread discussing post fire Cochiti Mesa Conditions
mountainproject.com/v/cochiti-...


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Volver de La Belle Epoque (5.14b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: No, the route between Julie and Jerkoff is another project, that has also been extended to the top of the cliff band. I don't think Cody has sent that one yet.


Page 1 of 11.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>