Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
PBR Time at the Creek


Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact DisturbingThePeace


Point Rank: # 72
Total Points: 4,687
Last Year: 168
Last 30 Days: 1
61 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has DisturbingThePeace been climbing?










DisturbingThePeace

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2026 | Routes 342 | Areas 37 | Photos 90 | Page Improvments | Comments 262 | Posts 69 | Stars 1070 | Ratings 156
Page 1 of 11.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Death Drives a Stick (5.13)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 19 hours ago

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks to whomever replaced all the draws that you clip with cable permadraws. It is nice to not have any questions about draw quality when you're jumping off the finish. It helps to take the time to work out the finishing mantle, it's not too bad once you know where the holds are.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : Reprimanda (5.11b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jul 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Second pitch is beautiful, too bad you have to climb the first pitch to get to it. With a few backcleaned bolts at the start and a few long slings, rope drag wasn't bad at all.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : The Amphitheater : Supramanya (5.11d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 23, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Been a while since this one's been climbed. The upper headwall is really enjoyable, too bad it's over so soon. Well worth climbing for the steep upper headwall, complete with a Tufa Feature.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've always thought the W section was low 5th class, or at least exposed enough to warrant 5th class, much harder / more exposed than Cabezon IMO.

What is everyone's best car to car time for parking at the Piedra Lisa Trailhead? I've done it in 3 hrs 9 min coming down Chimney Canyon to the La Luz, and I am not a good runner. I'll bet someone with a running background could do it in around 2 hrs. Another way to do it faster might be coming down the side of the shield to the Fletcher trail as B... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : West (Center) Face : The Hunting of the Snark (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A great new addition to the tower, my favorite of the new routes. I like it better than Mad Hatter as it has more independent climbing, with some fun hard moves. Felt like it had harder moves than Mad Hatter but better rests. Even without the Pit Stop I was able to get it all back before the steep section, and there are a few good rests higher on the route. Probably a little harder than Mad Hatter so given the standard 12d grade of Hatter this one is 12d as well and just a touch higher in th... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Renaissance Man (5.12-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Sounds like this is the same route as "Whole Lot of Rosie"?? I guess this is probably the correct name since Mike Tupper added it.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Grease Mechanic (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The listed grade of 12- felt like a huge sandbag, felt much much harder than the Grijalva route. My estimate is the grade is somewhere between 12c and 13a, basically a V6 or V7 boulder problem. Also I stick-clipped the 3rd bolt, which is lame, but it didn't seem safe for me otherwise. It would be a big fall low on the route, and while you wouldn't deck you would probably hit your belayer. I fell 4 times going for the hold next to the third bolt.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Or Dare (5.10)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: With a bit of back-cleaning and running out the first pitch I was able to combine this with the first pitch of "The Truth" to lead this in one pitch. I back-cleaned the first two bolts on "The Truth" skipped the mid-anchors and used long slings on a few bolts and the rope drag wasn't bad at all. Able to get down with one rappel with a 70m rope.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (03) The Franks : Dark Dreams (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route hasn't held up all that well since I last climbed it. The glue reinforced crimp between the first and second bolt is loose, while not required does make a nice intermediate. The jug at the third bolt is loose, the tree stump holding it in place is disintegrating, so the hold won't be there much longer. Beware it is an obvious hold and a significant amount of rock and dirt may come out with it. In addition it doesn't look to have been climbed for a while as the pockets at the start... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : 12-pack Link (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Finished this on "To Beer or not to Beer" in an attempt to make this 5.13-, while this sounds contrived since you essentially leave TBONTB to do the crux of BYOB, then work back to the anchors of TBONTB it makes for a good power endurance line with only one decent shake on the route. Don't think it quite makes it to 5.13 though.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Link to forum thread discussing post fire Cochiti Mesa Conditions
www.mountainproject.com/v/cochiti-mesa-update/107695146#a_10>>>


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Volver de La Belle Epoque (5.14b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 18, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: No, the route between Julie and Jerkoff is another project, that has also been extended to the top of the cliff band. I don't think Cody has sent that one yet.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This would be 4 stars and ultra classic like Goliath if it was the original line instead of a variation. As it cleans up it will be an easy three stars. Adds another 2 bolts of hard climbing, then you get some nice rests so the very top is still trivial. I'm guessing 13b since I've always considered Goliath to be on the upper side of 13a.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Mid-Town : Guchi (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route on good quality rock, may require a good brushing, so if you want to OS have someone else brush it down first. I found the clip at the 3rd bolt to be quite hard, w/o any options to get around it. Also the final crux felt as hard and insecure as any of the other hard moves.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Volver de La Belle Epoque (5.14b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Edit: This is the project between Pipsqueak and Doug. Not the extension to Jerkoff, Cody bolted that extension but hasn't sent yet.

Just to clarify, Cody sent this one around the time that he posted this to Mountain Project.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Rebecca (5.13-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great climb, with almost none of the sloping crimps that characterize the tunnel. The crux of this one will test your crimping strength on small flat crimps. I used a long sling on the 4th bolt so I could clip from the rest below. It is really hard to clip from the holds at the bolt. Also the finish from the resting jug is more like 11c/d with a few occasional rests.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Doug (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Very Cool and Stiff crux, probably V6 or low end V7. The crux hold is pretty neat, with enough imagination you can almost see it being tufa formation.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There are now several projects between Mastadont and Survival of the Fittest. I've heard that there is alot of interest in these lines so I wanted to open 1 of them up. If this isn't clear, just send me an email.

From Right to Left
Mastadont

Open Project, has one bolt and Anchor. All the good holds fell off the wall, and the sidepull jug will go with some cleaning. The start seemed impossible so I moved further left. Have at it, maybe some super strong climber can figure something out, or... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Erectus (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route, that should see more traffic. Not as classic or sustained as other cave routes, but still well worth doing. The business section is tricky but relatively short, so makes a good boulderer's route. After the rest only 1 moderately difficult pull remains.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Kryptic Curtain (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route starts up a low 5.10 popcorn covered face to a no-hands rest below an interesting tufa curtain. At the tufa curtain things get more challenging, good pinches and underclings allow you to clip the bolt under the roof. A strenous cross from underclings to another smaller undercling allow for a challenging clip of the fixed draw. Here the crux starts and I was mystified, there is a jug just out of deadpoint reach for me, and the other holds are small and far apart. Seemed very Krypti... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Finland Terrace : Single Ladies (5.10-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe I just get way too excited about Tufa's, but I thought this climb was really great. Awesome holds through the middle section, leads to a roof with huge jugs. How many times do you get features like this on a 5.10-?

Edit: I climbed this again, and it is not 4 stars, in fact it may be closer to two stars.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Sun Burst (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I think this might just make low end 13a. Three short boulder problems separated by quick shakes. V5, V4, V4? Then a good shake and fun engaging climbing to the anchors.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Tufa Tussle (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Another great tufa route. Skips the hard low crux of Dead Sea to enjoyable moderate climbing with plenty of great rests. After the break the climbing is on, with a great section of single tufa, and engaging climbing up to the anchors. As mentioned there are some scary looking features, a flake near the midpoint and an undercling higher, but both felt bomber when pulled on.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Dead Sea (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great route, and my favorite of the harder routes I have done at the Homestead. Be ready for a hard move at the 4th bolt, the hardest move on the route for me. Then a nice rest leads into great overhanging tufa climbing, with multiple cruxes and a few good rests.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Unknown (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jan 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I was able to get the second bolt clipped from the large Huecos, it was a bit of a stretch, but helped my piece of mind for the strenuous moves in that area.


Page 1 of 11.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>