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PBR Time at the Creek


Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact DisturbingThePeace


Point Rank: # 71
Total Points: 4,569
Last Year: 125
Last 30 Days: 50
60 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has DisturbingThePeace been climbing?










DisturbingThePeace

 
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All (1918) | Routes (334) | Areas (37) | Photos (84) | Comments (254) | Posts (66) | Stars (989) | Ratings (154)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (03) The Franks : Dark Dreams (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: This route hasn't held up all that well since I last climbed it. The glue reinforced crimp between the first and second bolt is loose, while not required does make a nice intermediate. The jug at the third bolt is loose, the tree stump holding it in place is disintegrating, so the hold won't be there much longer. Beware it is an obvious hold and a significant amount of rock and dirt may come out with it. In addition it doesn't look to have been climbed for a while as the pockets at the start... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : 12-pack Link (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Finished this on "To Beer or not to Beer" in an attempt to make this 5.13-, while this sounds contrived since you essentially leave TBONTB to do the crux of BYOB, then work back to the anchors of TBONTB it makes for a good power endurance line with only one decent shake on the route. Don't think it quite makes it to 5.13 though.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Link to forum thread discussing post fire Cochiti Mesa Conditions
www.mountainproject.com/v/cochiti-mesa-update/107695146#a_10>>>


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Volver de La Belle Epoque (5.14b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: No, the route between Julie and Jerkoff is another project, that has also been extended to the top of the cliff band. I don't think Cody has sent this one yet.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: This would be 4 stars and ultra classic like Goliath if it was the original line instead of a variation. As it cleans up it will be an easy three stars. Adds another 2 bolts of hard climbing, then you get some nice rests so the very top is still trivial. I'm guessing 13b since I've always considered Goliath to be on the upper side of 13a.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Mid-Town : Guchi (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Great route on good quality rock, may require a good brushing, so if you want to OS have someone else brush it down first. I found the clip at the 3rd bolt to be quite hard, w/o any options to get around it. Also the final crux felt as hard and insecure as any of the other hard moves.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Volver de La Belle Epoque (5.14b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Edit: This is the project between Pipsqueak and Doug. Not the extension to Jerkoff, Cody bolted that extension but hasn't sent yet.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Rebecca (5.13-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Great climb, with almost none of the sloping crimps that characterize the tunnel. The crux of this one will test your crimping strength on small flat crimps. I used a long sling on the 4th bolt so I could clip from the rest below. It is really hard to clip from the holds at the bolt. Also the finish from the resting jug is more like 11c/d with a few occasional rests.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Doug (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 1, 2013

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Comments: Very Cool and Stiff crux, probably V6 or low end V7. The crux hold is pretty neat, with enough imagination you can almost see it being tufa formation.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: There are now several projects between Mastadont and Survival of the Fittest. I've heard that there is alot of interest in these lines so I wanted to open 1 of them up. If this isn't clear, just send me an email.

From Right to Left
Mastadont

Open Project, has one bolt and Anchor. All the good holds fell off the wall, and the sidepull jug will go with some cleaning. The start seemed impossible so I moved further left. Have at it, maybe some super strong climber can figure something out, or... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Erectus (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Fun route, that should see more traffic. Not as classic or sustained as other cave routes, but still well worth doing. The business section is tricky but relatively short, so makes a good boulderer's route. After the rest only 1 moderately difficult pull remains.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Kryptic Curtain (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 12, 2013

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Comments: This route starts up a low 5.10 popcorn covered face to a no-hands rest below an interesting tufa curtain. At the tufa curtain things get more challenging, good pinches and underclings allow you to clip the bolt under the roof. A strenous cross from underclings to another smaller undercling allow for a challenging clip of the fixed draw. Here the crux starts and I was mystified, there is a jug just out of deadpoint reach for me, and the other holds are small and far apart. Seemed very Krypti... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Finland Terrace : Single Ladies (5.10-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 5, 2013

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Comments: Maybe I just get way too excited about Tufa's, but I thought this climb was really great. Awesome holds through the middle section, leads to a roof with huge jugs. How many times do you get features like this on a 5.10-?

Edit: I climbed this again, and it is not 4 stars, in fact it may be closer to two stars.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Sun Burst (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: I think this might just make low end 13a. Three short boulder problems separated by quick shakes. V5, V4, V4? Then a good shake and fun engaging climbing to the anchors.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Tufa Tussle (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Another great tufa route. Skips the hard low crux of Dead Sea to enjoyable moderate climbing with plenty of great rests. After the break the climbing is on, with a great section of single tufa, and engaging climbing up to the anchors. As mentioned there are some scary looking features, a flake near the midpoint and an undercling higher, but both felt bomber when pulled on.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Dead Sea (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 4, 2013

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Comments: Great route, and my favorite of the harder routes I have done at the Homestead. Be ready for a hard move at the 4th bolt, the hardest move on the route for me. Then a nice rest leads into great overhanging tufa climbing, with multiple cruxes and a few good rests.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Unknown (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jan 21, 2013

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Comments: I was able to get the second bolt clipped from the large Huecos, it was a bit of a stretch, but helped my piece of mind for the strenuous moves in that area.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Intelligent Design (5.11c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Dec 9, 2012

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Comments: We were able to link this pitch with hominid and climb it in one long pitch. To keep rope drag down we backcleaned the first several draws and used long slings on a few bolts. With a 60m we were able to easily lower back to the top of the first pitch. With a 70m rope you may be able to get back to the ground if the belayer walks part way up the pillar. Tie a knot and use caution of course.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Dec 9, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Lee, After looking yesterday and climbing ILL, there is a line that shares the first 3 bolts of ILL, then branches right. The bolt line is missing a hanger on one stud and has one chopped bolt higher. Then it looks like it joins Suicidal Society / Icarus. Holds looked generally solid and had some faint chalk, with 2 new bolts (Stud may be too mangled to get a nut on) could be a decent challenging route.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Dec 7, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone know the story behind Decomp 13a? It is listed in Jemez rock as a 4 star route "Steepest and most sustained climbing in Solar Cave. Follow bolts to shared anchor with Suicidal Society". Is this the same route as the ILL line? Did it fall down? Did Jemez rock invent a route? Is it there and I just can't find it?


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : The Temple : A Date with Beth (V7)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Nov 30, 2012

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Comments: I remember getting to the top was fairly difficult and committing. At least once you are on easy ground it is high enough that I didn't want to drop off. Although from the videos it looks like most do drop from the ending jugs. Also I don't think the sit makes it that much harder, probably low to mid V8 with the sit.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Mastodont (5.13b/c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: About the same difficulty for me as the other 13's Survival and Native Rituals, but I like "steep gym rat" climbing. More full body strength than finger strength dependent. Certainly felt the most secure of the Solar Cave 13's.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Voyage of the Beagle (5.11b/c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: This route has improved significantly in the 2.5 years since I last climbed it. Felt easier and less chossy. Now makes for a good warmup.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Shady Side Left : Jerk Off (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: If this were twice as long it would be an absolute classic! Sweet bouldery moves all the way. More powerful than fingery with very few of the tunnel slopers.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Mid-Town : Rational Expectation (5.12b/c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I broke a right hand crimp that I initially used to pull over the roof to get to the jug. New beta I ended up working out involved dynoing from the right sloper and left crimp directly to the jug. My taller climbing partner was able to keep his feet on the lower bulge and keep from cutting. Hard to grade since it's kinda a one move wonder, but I don't think it's any harder even with the breakage than other tunnel 12b's (HIVD, Blue Velvet). Of course these would probably be 12c at other areas... more >>


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