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Rock Climbing Photo: PBR Time at the Creek


Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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DisturbingThePeace
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Point Rank: # 83
Total Points: 5,138
Last Year: 362
Last 30 Days: 91
59 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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DisturbingThePeace

 
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All 2681 | Routes 374 | Areas 38 | Photos 102 | Page Improvements | Comments 318 | Posts 74 | Stars 1599 | Ratings 176
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Inner Gorilla (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: When we got to this line the only chalk was way left of the arete on large holds (impossible to lead while using these holds) and the chalk from the left hand holds on "Portrait in Flesh" After looking thru the pictures I realize that I climbed this route much more on the arete and left of the arete than the FA. I used pinches and underclings on the arete for the right hand, and crimps and sidepulls left of the arete for the left hand. Grade felt about 12d, however the falls felt like they co... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Love Your Enemies (5.12a/b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Kch16, New River Wall and the trail to it are both open. Just be sure to stay in the US Route 6 corridor as you approach. With a close look at the sign, you can see the corridor that is still open.
From JeffCo website jeffco.us/open-space/news/2016... "another area of Clear Creek Canyon Park, near Tunnel 2, is closed to all public use uphill of the U.S. Route 6 corridor from February 1 through July 31 to protect an active golden eagle nest... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Love Your Inclinations (5.12b/c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: This route is pretty fun and well worth doing as a second warm-up or a cool down at the end of the day. The boulder problem over the triangle roof is quite good. To help with rope drag, skip the clip after the triangle roof boulder problem. The fall will be long but quite clean.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Winslow Areas : *Jacks Canyon : Main Wall : Total Lack of Jump (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: While I agree that this climb is totally worth doing and is comparable to many other climbs on Main Wall, there is no way it is anywhere close to four stars. I can only think of one heavily manufactured (but barely noticeable) sport climb in the US that I would give four stars to. This thing is so blatantly and heavily manufactured that although the climbing is fun it is only one star from me. That is why Jack's canyon classics like Haul of Flame and Unpopular Mechanics only get two stars fro... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Midget Proof Direct (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: After talking with some others who had gotten on this route, it might deserve an upgrade and the crux might be V7.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) : Unknown (5.10a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Hey Rich, I don't think so, looking at your photo of "Mega Man" it looks like "Mega Man" starts left of where this route is. It does look like this route could easily be linked into "Mega Man". If you're down there again soon, check for sure and I'll update if necessary. Thanks!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Jornada Del Muerto (5.12c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: Grade is still up for debate, might be as low as 12c, could be as hard as low 13a, depends on how hard the crux moves are. Needs some additional ascents for confirmation. The moves are pretty awesome, however the rock is sub-par, hopefully the holds will hang in there.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Sacrificial Pig (5.12c/d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: This route is actually pretty good, even though it looks a bit dirty and chossy. With some more ascents and cleaning this would probably be a solid 2-3 stars. I didn't find any super hard crux, more of a pumpy power endurance type of line. The moves getting past the 4th bolt are pretty challenging though. While hanging the draws the bolting felt pretty sparse, with some potentially awkward falls, however on redpoint it didn't feel too bad. Felt a little harder than other 12c's on Tufa City ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Sidewinder (5.12a/b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Interesting route, stiff 12a or easy 12b. A fun wandering climb up great stone, it is too bad that cleaning is such a pain. Maybe consider moving the first chain down a bolt to protect the crux, and make it more useful during cleaning. I skipped the first chain (and a bunch of other bolts to help ropedrag) but it meant getting back to it while cleaning would be a pain. Plan to take a lot of slings and backclean a lot to keep rope drag down.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Ultra-perm (5.13d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Some additional beta; don't read if you want to get the OS.

Climb 5.9/5.11a slab to a no hands rest, you can pre-clip the next bolt and return to the rest. Climb 2 bolts of 12- and begin the crux, ~V7 boulder problem, probably skipping the first bolt into the crux. Persevere to the above bolt get a quick shake and contemplate the 15' run ahead to the jugs and next bolt above. A kneebar in the middle (if you have the right size leg) of this helps get a quick shake before the V4 redpo... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Bear's Den
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: This crag is pretty awesome and destined to be popular once it's included in the guidebook. It makes for a great place to warm-up if you want to avoid the Motherload crowds and do a few new routes. The best way to reach the far right side routes is to start on the undertow trail pass the left side bears down routes and take a right for which will cross the canyon to the right side routes.

The other trail mentioned that starts off the road was overgrown and not easy to follow.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Observatory Wall (Upper Tie... : You're Scaring the Horses (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Done & Done, both "La Naris" and "You're scaring the horses" have been moved to the upper tier.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound : Butt Crack (5.12a/b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: This route is actually pretty fun. Some more traffic and it would clean up to be two stars. A pretty challenging start leads to some hand jams in the crack. Once it widens some great kneebar rests can be had, finally some powerful underclinging leads to an easier finish.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : We Were Jumpers Once and Yo... (5.12)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: The direct finish goes at around 5.12. From the stance where the thin crack breaks out left to the anchors of Endurance (mentioned above as Jumpers to Endurance) continue up to a fixed cable (no biner) and a stance. Either bust straight up probably 5.13 or traverse right across the ledge to a good rest. Climb up the arete, clip the last bolt and make hard (5.12 ish) somewhat committing moves to the anchors.

With some cleaning, and perhaps some bolt re-location the direct finish could be a pr... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Tempest (5.13-)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Great new route! Unique techy then powerful climbing up great rock on a nice steep section of the wall.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : New Canyon : Power Wall : The Pervert and The Hammer (5.11d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: First Ascent info is from the 2004 edition of New Canyon Rock Climbing by Dennis Zallen. So go pick your fight with him. I updated the FA info.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Ring Around The Rosie (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for cleaning this one up Aaron! Went from a sketchy scary route to a great route. The crux is quite a bit easier and is now a good continuous line. High quality 13a.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Delicatessen Ridge (5.8)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: For leading this, I placed a few finger-size cams and a #2 Camalot. There is also an old piton towards the top. Makes for a bit of a warm-up if you don't feel like jumping on the 5.11 to start off.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Grease Mechanic (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the info Craig! What was the original grade? I had originally heard it was 12c, but it feels a good bit harder than that. I think the published grade of 12- in RC NM was a typo or a guess by the author. Any idea who got the FA?


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I re-organized this area a few weeks ago. Let me know if anyone sees any changes that need made.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: Yes, I get marginal service at the parking area, but get great service up in the cave itself. The service is good enough I've surfed facebook while waiting for the shade to come.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: So while there may be some additional safety factor between safe working load of the quicklinks and load capacity of these carabiners

@ Kennoyce, I was attempting to cover this with the above statement. That said looking at their website, I'm guessing that load capacity might include an additional safety factor. The Austrian company might just use different terminology. I still wouldn't use them for anything other than anchors however.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Sin after Sin (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Fun route and a nice mix of technical and powerful climbing. I ended up hanging a 4' draw from the last bolt so I could clip before the crux. I couldn't clip the last bolt directly until I was above it on jugs and much easier climbing.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions : Los Huevos : La Parkita (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Warning: Onsight Spoiler

When did it break? I tried this on Saturday, and it didn't seem like there was anything to break off the left hand pinch / sidepull. My beta from the left hand jug was, rt gaston crimp, left three finger small crimp, rt intermediate bad crimp, rt sidepull pinch, left sidepull / pinch, dyno right hand for the jug.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall : Senility (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Very fun route with cool climbing on the upper section between hero jugs and a thin bouldery sequence at the bottom. The route splits after the first 3 bolts, for the 12a version climb the right set of bolts. The left set appears to be an open project with some very thin climbing.


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