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Rock Climbing Photo: PBR Time at the Creek


Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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DisturbingThePeace
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Point Rank: # 84
Total Points: 5,002
Last Year: 279
Last 30 Days: 0
59 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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DisturbingThePeace

 
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All 2542 | Routes 364 | Areas 37 | Photos 101 | Page Improvements | Comments 312 | Posts 73 | Stars 1484 | Ratings 171
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Sacrificial Pig (5.12c/d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: This route is actually pretty good, even though it looks a bit dirty and chossy. With some more ascents and cleaning this would probably be a solid 2-3 stars. I didn't find any super hard crux, more of a pumpy power endurance type of line. The moves getting past the 4th bolt are pretty challenging though. While hanging the draws the bolting felt pretty sparse, with some potentially awkward falls, however on redpoint it didn't feel too bad. Felt a little harder than other 12c's on Tufa City ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Sidewinder (5.12a/b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Interesting route, stiff 12a or easy 12b. A fun wandering climb up great stone, it is too bad that cleaning is such a pain. Maybe consider moving the first chain down a bolt to protect the crux, and make it more useful during cleaning. I skipped the first chain (and a bunch of other bolts to help ropedrag) but it meant getting back to it while cleaning would be a pain. Plan to take a lot of slings and backclean a lot to keep rope drag down.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Ultra-perm (5.13d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Some additional beta; don't read if you want to get the OS.

Climb 5.9/5.11a slab to a no hands rest, you can pre-clip the next bolt and return to the rest. Climb 2 bolts of 12- and begin the crux, ~V7 boulder problem, probably skipping the first bolt into the crux. Persevere to the above bolt get a quick shake and contemplate the 15' run ahead to the jugs and next bolt above. A kneebar in the middle (if you have the right size leg) of this helps get a quick shake before the V4 redpo... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Bear's Den
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: This crag is pretty awesome and destined to be popular once it's included in the guidebook. It makes for a great place to warm-up if you want to avoid the Motherload crowds and do a few new routes. The best way to reach the far right side routes is to start on the undertow trail pass the left side bears down routes and take a right for which will cross the canyon to the right side routes.

The other trail mentioned that starts off the road was overgrown and not easy to follow.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Observatory Wall (Upper Tie... : You're Scaring the Horses (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Done & Done, both "La Naris" and "You're scaring the horses" have been moved to the upper tier.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : The Compound : Butt Crack (5.12a/b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: This route is actually pretty fun. Some more traffic and it would clean up to be two stars. A pretty challenging start leads to some hand jams in the crack. Once it widens some great kneebar rests can be had, finally some powerful underclinging leads to an easier finish.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : We Were Jumpers Once and Yo... (5.12)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: The direct finish goes at around 5.12. From the stance where the thin crack breaks out left to the anchors of Endurance (mentioned above as Jumpers to Endurance) continue up to a fixed cable (no biner) and a stance. Either bust straight up probably 5.13 or traverse right across the ledge to a good rest. Climb up the arete, clip the last bolt and make hard (5.12 ish) somewhat committing moves to the anchors.

With some cleaning, and perhaps some bolt re-location the direct finish could be a pr... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Tempest (5.13b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Great new route! Unique techy then powerful climbing up great rock on a nice steep section of the wall.


Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : New Canyon : Power Wall : The Pervert and The Hammer (5.11d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: First Ascent info is from the 2004 edition of New Canyon Rock Climbing by Dennis Zallen. So go pick your fight with him. I updated the FA info.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Ring Around The Rosie (5.13b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for cleaning this one up Aaron! Went from a sketchy scary route to a great route. The crux is quite a bit easier and is now a good continuous line. High quality 13a.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area : Wild Rock : Delicatessen Ridge (5.8)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: For leading this, I placed a few finger-size cams and a #2 Camalot. There is also an old piton towards the top. Makes for a bit of a warm-up if you don't feel like jumping on the 5.11 to start off.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Grease Mechanic (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the info Craig! What was the original grade? I had originally heard it was 12c, but it feels a good bit harder than that. I think the published grade of 12- in RC NM was a typo or a guess by the author. Any idea who got the FA?


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: I re-organized this area a few weeks ago. Let me know if anyone sees any changes that need made.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 28, 2015

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Comments: Yes, I get marginal service at the parking area, but get great service up in the cave itself. The service is good enough I've surfed facebook while waiting for the shade to come.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: DisturbingThePeace When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: So while there may be some additional safety factor between safe working load of the quicklinks and load capacity of these carabiners

@ Kennoyce, I was attempting to cover this with the above statement. That said looking at their website, I'm guessing that load capacity might include an additional safety factor. The Austrian company might just use different terminology. I still wouldn't use them for anything other than anchors however.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Sin after Sin (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Fun route and a nice mix of technical and powerful climbing. I ended up hanging a 4' draw from the last bolt so I could clip before the crux. I couldn't clip the last bolt directly until I was above it on jugs and much easier climbing.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions : Los Huevos : La Parkita (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Warning: Onsight Spoiler

When did it break? I tried this on Saturday, and it didn't seem like there was anything to break off the left hand pinch / sidepull. My beta from the left hand jug was, rt gaston crimp, left three finger small crimp, rt intermediate bad crimp, rt sidepull pinch, left sidepull / pinch, dyno right hand for the jug.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall : Senility (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Very fun route with cool climbing on the upper section between hero jugs and a thin bouldery sequence at the bottom. The route splits after the first 3 bolts, for the 12a version climb the right set of bolts. The left set appears to be an open project with some very thin climbing.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Hunter Gatherer (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Aaron & James! Fun route with super steep climbing and pretty good holds.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Midget Proof Direct (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: I had climbed this years ago ~2011, and had noted it as 5.12a. A few holds have broken since then leaving much harder climbing and a better route. Whats left seems quite solid.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: To me, yes these would be good enough. I would lower off of these without any hesitation. A 5/16" quicklink, which is probably what is used to connect the chains to the hanger only has a safe working load of ~1760 lbs, 7.83kN climbtechgear.com/quicklink-5-.... The austrialpin website lists these carabiners as having a load capacity of ~2200 lbs, 10kN. austrialpin.net/products/milit... So while there may be some additional safety factor between safe work... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Easy Bake Alcove : The Color of Optimism (5.12c) : Photo
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: Anything will go if you're strong enough :) Note that this picture was taken after I had moved my feet over, for the throw they were the same. I haven't done this yet, but felt quite hard for 5.12c for me. And it might require a 5'8" to 5'9" reach.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : 99 Problems (5.12d)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 17, 2015

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Comments: Fun route with a thin face climbing crux. Crux section is short, but the climbing above is fun and thought provoking. With some long draws we also started off the higher belay platform.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Funk (5.13c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: This route feels really hard for 13c, I'm guessing the consensus will probably settle in at 13d or 14a, once it sees repeat ascents. Nice job Kinchen!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Bella Donna (5.13b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: Despite all the glue the quality of the moves makes this one of the best 5.13's in NM. Amazing boulder problems with some tufa holds thrown in. Roughly breaks down into a V5, V6, V5 with good rests in between. In 5 years this will be as sought after for a tick as routes like Goliath & Sinister Dane are today.

I replaced the original faded draws with chains, as this gets a lot of sun. Bring a few extra draws if you are working it.


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