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PBR Time at the Creek


Member Since: Mar 1, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 77
Total Points: 4,745
Last Year: 226
Last 30 Days: 31
61 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has DisturbingThePeace been climbing?










DisturbingThePeace

 
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Contributions


All 2224 | Routes 344 | Areas 37 | Photos 92 | Page Improvements | Comments 289 | Posts 72 | Stars 1225 | Ratings 165
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Funk (5.13c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 4 days ago

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Comments: This route feels really hard for 13c, I'm guessing the consensus will probably settle in at 13d or 14a, once it sees repeat ascents. Nice job Kinchen!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Bella Donna (5.13b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Despite all the glue the quality of the moves makes this one of the best 5.13's in NM. Amazing boulder problems with some tufa holds thrown in. Roughly breaks down into a V5, V6, V5 with good rests in between. In 5 years this will be as sought after for a tick as routes like Goliath & Sinister Dane are today.

I replaced the original faded draws with chains, as this gets a lot of sun. Bring a few extra draws if you are working it.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 26, 2015

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Comments: Yes, I believe it is still closed. Probably not a bad idea to call to verify if you are thinking about a trip.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave : New Beginning (5.12+)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Great route, two fun boulder problems probably both about V5, separated by a good rest. The first one techy the second more powerful. Then a fun challenging headwall. I'm guessing easy 12d for the grade.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : The Hindu : Maverick (5.9 C2)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 18, 2015

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Comments: There was a rope fixed between pitch 1 & 2 in March 2012 when I climbed this route. I however did use the fixed line, since I was already aid climbing :). Hard to believe the same rope has been there for three years, but possible I guess.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Second Thought (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: Great Climb! Very unique movement and holds. Rock quality is still a bit marginal at the bottom but should continue to clean up.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Wine Wall : Black Beauty (5.12b/c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Great route, probably on the stiff side of 5.12b, might be a 5.12c. Cool holds and two distinct boulder problems make this route really fun.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Wine Wall : Wine in the Box (5.12b/c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Extremely bouldery route. The boulder problem off the ledge is a bit heady, I took the fall a few times but with an attentive belay it wasn't bad. May get a chain draw in the future, to move the clip a bit higher.

This route is also a bit of a PIA to clean due to the traversing nature at the top. I cleaned down to the ledge, then went in direct, untied and pulled the rope and down led back to the belay.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of the B... : The Big Flake (5.10)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: Rich, yes this is it, didn't have a name that I knew of, we just called it the warmup, as it was the easiest thing in the cave. Good to hear it has cleaned up. I've never been above the first set of anchors on this route.

The black streak was called "OG Mudbone", and a really cool line, I remember it being much harder than it looked. I don't know if it was ever sent or not.

Cool that you guys have been getting down there, the rock up high on that side of the cave looks cool with a lot of Tu... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of the B... : The Big Flake (5.10)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Rich, if this is the climb that I'm thinking of (starts right side of the cave, just right a long black streak that has a little bit of tufa) it was bolted by Timy and John Kear. I spent some time cleaning it and it was still a bit of a choss pile. I remembered that it could use an extra bolt protecting the crux as it could be a bad fall.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Wart : Something Big & Lovely (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Jason! I had always wondered if this route could be extended to the top of the wall, but it doesn't sound like it would add any good climbing.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Wine Wall
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Feb 2, 2015

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Comments: Climbed all of the routes on this wall and enjoyed all of them. The rock quality isn't the greatest, but didn't break anything off. Well worth a visit.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Isle of You : ... : Hell in a Handbasket (5.10c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: I'd say this one doesn't see much traffic due to the generous spacing between the first three bolts. Feels like you would come pretty close to the ground if you fell getting to the second or third bolt. Above the third bolt the route is well protected in all the harder sections.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13+)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: With a kneebar pad I was able to dumb down the first crux and make the move to the first right hand pocket much easier. Low end 13c? This time of year the upper crux gets sun until after 5:00.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: Cool, congrats on the FA Ben, and good luck to Ed. It is cool seeing it with chalk on it.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: I think Cody Roth did the FA of this back in the day.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (L. Side) : Ojo (5.12b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Wow, this thing feels really hard for 12a, feels like a 12b start to the rest to an 11d/12a finishing head wall. Lee's beta is spot on about z clipping the anchors.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: I think as George mentions keeping the upper tier climbs separate is a good idea. Otherwise I don't like having too many sub areas as it leads to clicking back and forth a lot to see all the climbs.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: How about lumping the Live, Renaissance, and Renegade sectors back into one area? I agree with sorting out the Dog House and entrance pinnacle, but the other areas being separated when it is one wall adds to the confusion for me.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: What do people think about simplifying this area and re-organizing it into only 2 sub areas, Grotto Left (East) Side and Grotto Right (West) Side? This would make finding individual climbs much easier and simplify things.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 Areas : Jacks Canyon : Swiss Wall : Swiss Miss (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: I disagree, there are many sport climbing areas where to earn the grade and in my opinion to do the climb you avoid using certain features or cracks. On Main wall you avoid stemming to the back wall on "Heart Shaped Box" and "Limestone Cowgirl". To me the 11a stemming way seems like the variation.

Also thanks for sorting the routes!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Bauhaus Wall : Liquid Culture (5.13a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: Great description, I got a good laugh out of it while working this route! While not the best route, it is a worthy 13- objective if it is pouring out (that's how I got sucked in). Some of the lower pockets seep during an extended wet period however. The crux of this felt quite hard compared with other 13a's in the canyon.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Wheel of Karma : Flying Spaghetti Monster (5.12a)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Pretty fun route, if you have already done the classics at UEF. It is too bad that the climbing weaves around so much. Feels pretty stout for the 12a grade, but the slopers may make this one more condition dependent than most.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Ring Around The Rosie (5.13b)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Warning: There is a large loose block on this just above the mid-anchors. It doesn't appear to be connected to the wall anymore only jammed in place. I would be wary of trusting it until I took a crowbar to it. The entrance into the crux still goes without using it. Above the crux there are several sketchy looking blocks as well, that would provide a nice rest, but look like they could rip off. The crux is certainly pretty cool and quite hard, but the rest of line needs some cleaning.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renaissance Sector : Asian Whore (5.8)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Be careful on the huge hollow flakes between the last bolt and the anchors. Seems like the last bolt could be moved a little higher as well being that clipping the anchors might be the crux. Would be a pretty scary lead for someone at their limit.


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