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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Checkerboard Wall : The Maiden Voyage aka The R... (5.9)
By: dinglestyle When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best moment for me on this route was the third pitch. I broke right under the overhang and went through a small bush around a corner on to the main Checkerboard Wall, and wow the exposure went up a few notches with the river below and just a few hand-jams to the belay ledge. That was a 4 star moment despite the bush. By the way I wish I brought one larger cam for below the overhang on that pitch, maybe the new BD 5, which is close to the old 4. Not a necessity but a nice luxury.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : The Burn (5.8) : Photo
By: dinglestyle When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This picture shows more of Sunshine then The Burn.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Conn's West (5.4)
By: dinglestyle When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super loose flake on the right facing wall of the dihedral just below the ledge with the tree on it.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : West Pole (5.7+)
By: dinglestyle When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware of the lose block right after the crux. I think it would be hard to pull it out, but you never know what a desperate person will do. Another Classic sandbag +=next grade up.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Triple S (5.8+)
By: dinglestyle When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy 5.9 rating when compared to other climbs in the area like Tomato, The Burn and Alcoa. In my experience as a climber whenever I see a plus symbol it means sandbag rating Especially any east coast route that was established pre 5.10 era. This is classic Seneca at it’s best still, a test piece in the mind of many weekend warriors.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Castor (5.10a)
By: dinglestyle When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The real crux is placing the first piece of gear. This climb is really a 5.8 ontop of a v2 boulder problem. The main description above is wrong after the large ledge. Jeremy’s comments are more correct.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Gunsight to South Peak Dire... (5.4)
By: dinglestyle When: Feb 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is really on the east face. I would rate it 5.6 I would say Candy Corner and Critter Crack are very comparable in rating. This climb scared me more then Castor, which is a 5.10, the first time I climbed it. Be ready for some of the best exposure in the East.
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