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Location: MA : Redrock : Morning Glory (5.8+)
By: DFrench When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Update: as of August '09 there are 3 bolts protecting this climb, which felt just about right. Felt like 5.9+ on a humid day in the sun.
On a side note, has anyone climbed the left-facing corner with two crack systems that is about 20 feet left of this climb (like if you were to continue up the left slanting ramp at the start)?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Runaway (5.8)
By: DFrench When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today after waiting for the snow to melt off the approach. Definitely worth a visit. There are many thought provoking sequences separated by good rests. I also placed a #1 Camalot after the last bolt. Thanks to whoever took the time to clean up this route!
I had to park in the small pull-off that serves as the entrance to the parking/picnic area because the road down to the river was closed off with an orange fence. There is still enough room for 1 maybe 2 cars to fit safely.... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : The Prow (5.8 C2-3) : Photo
By: DFrench When: Aug 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Umm...isn't there supposed to be a 'biner in the bottom hole of the Pro-Traxion?
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Location: UT : Triassic : Land of a Thousand Boulders : Golden (V1)
By: DFrench When: Jul 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could someone add in a description of WHERE this route is, please?
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder : Center El Murray (V6)
By: DFrench When: Jun 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stars aside, this historic route (along with its two neighbors) deserves a much better description that at least pays tribute to the very man that it is named after. It should acknowledge the fact that the El Murrays were once (yes, they are sadly closed) a true litmus test for aspiring hard-men (and women) who made the pilgrimage to the Tanks.
And not even a picture?!?!
I am certainly no historian, but I believe FA credit ought be given to Bob Murray, who ascended the routes first on toprope... more >>
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Photo
By: DFrench When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hershey's Symphony? I thought that looked like the tallest and scariest V1 I'd ever seen. Kudos to you, captain.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a) : Photo
By: DFrench When: Jan 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, that is some resourceful nut use. Why didn't I ever think of that?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Chore Boy (5.10b/c)
By: DFrench When: Aug 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I racked up for this route with a slew of small-to-medium gear after reading these posts and it ended up being nothing but dead-weight.
The "run-out" sections were always accompanied by easier climbing (and a nice new bolt) and I felt that to stop and fiddle with a placement would have been a waste of strength.
That said, the event of a spontaneous fall (aren't they always spontaneous?) probably would have resulted in a rather unenjoyable ride down the feature-ridden face.
The moral of the... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Ho Hum (5.4)
By: DFrench When: Jul 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: - *A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: The LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut as of July 20th 2007. It seems to slowly uscrew itself during use. This is also the case with the route to the left, Jam It
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Jam It (5.8)
By: DFrench When: Jul 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: - *A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: the (climber's) LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut, i.e. it comes unscrewed slowly with use. [as of July 20th 2007]. This is also the case with the route to the right, Ho Hum
And, as was posted in the general forum, one of the new bolt-hangers from Idle Hands is still missing.
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