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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Fleuger Chimney (5.8)
By: Desicon When: Feb 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOL, I think the spelling is a bit off here, Robert Fleugher should be Robert Flaugher?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon
By: Desicon When: Jan 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric, see my comments on the "Control Tower" photo, and more extensively on the route "Flight Delay."
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Don't Grab Here (5.10)
By: Desicon When: Jan 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb, "Flight Delay," if it is on the spire above Kessler Corner, in the Cherry Creek basin east of the highway, was initially done back sometime between 1989 and 1992 by Robert Flaugher, Adam Grad, Bill Clinch and Tom Weaver. As I recall it, the nasty, crumbly junk at the bottom can be avoided on the right for mounting moves. Or, taking great care, you can pick you way through the slabby stuff for a more direct start. This direct start was done "for fun" on top rope after the original FA.... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow...
By: Desicon When: Jan 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just found this development report, lol, "Forgotten Wall," well, not really forgotten, R. Flaugher just got too old and busted up to get out here after 1994. I've left some comments on this area under the "Flight Delay" notes. Great job of development, Eric!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Photo
By: Desicon When: Jan 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmmm, looks familiar. Is this area upstream from Kessler's corner, in what I think is called the Cherry Creek canyon, first major canyon east of Bear canyon and the highway? If so, this area was "pioneered" back in 1989-1990 by Flaugher, Weaver, Grad and Clinch who did a number of ascents on the wall behind the spire, and worked up two routes to the top of the tower. I climbed there some longish time ago, 5.8 to 5.10 stuff as I recall. The bolts out there are OLD, so check them before depending ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rupley Towers : Bop Til You Drop (5.10 R)
By: Desicon When: Jan 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A highly entertaining, three star, 5.10b climb that allows the intermediate leader a chance to practice some moderately run-out face moves, and then make a fun transition to a lie-back/ jam-pull over the swelling roll of the rock just before the end of the active climbing. I agree with Jerry, PG-13 or R as you choose -- a tumble from the lower face could jam your ankles somewhat severely towards your knees...
You can continue this climb without much rope drag to the top of the tower.
Jerry, I... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Year of the Dragon (5.10b)
By: Desicon When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, a bit "hairy" to mount the Dragon's Head, easy moves (5.5 will cover it) but, absolutely, do not let go until you are safely seated on the Dragon's Pate!
I did this climb a number of years ago, on a dark (if not stormy)afternoon. In the shade the rock was cold, and the grippy-thin holds were hard on my deteriorating knuckles. But it impressed me as it maintained a general level of difficulty all the way up. I remember only one good rest stance, so the ascent gave me a real forearm pump, L... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Wind of Change (5.8)
By: Desicon When: Jul 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: andy peter tretiakoff -- No, no! I took both Jerry's post and your's to be good natured kidding, and replied in like fashion. Climbers do tend to rib one another, and let's face it, my long-winded style of commentary leaves plenty of room for humour. When I get to the point where I classify a climb as a 5.7c8 (meaning, almost, but not quite a 5.7d, then I'll be truly certifiable!
Hmmm, I wonder if it is possible to create a route description that prints out longer than the actual route... Yowl!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Mogenhead (5.8)
By: Desicon When: Jul 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott and Jerry:
I have done this climb a number of times, and I've wondered myself if another bolt should be added simply because so many of the climbers here do not bother carrying any gear up with them. The smallest of the Lowe Tricams, pink cord, can be used if protection is desired, about three feet above B2, and there are several cracks that will take small nuts.
About five years ago, a member of the First Ascent team explained that they thought the placement of a bolt between the curre... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Fire Zone (5.10a)
By: Desicon When: Jul 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jerry,can you fill out your description of this route a bit more? How many bolts are on this climb? Are there any run-out sections? How did you find the protection for the crux? This is one of my favorite routes on The Ridgeline, probably because there are many alternative ways of getting past the "hard" spot. Did you mantle this move, or are you long enough to reach the ledge at the bolt in one good stretch? I'm thinking here that climbers under 5'9" may find themselves distinctly disadvantaged... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Wind of Change (5.8)
By: Desicon When: Jul 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My Goodness, Cagle! Not know a 9.b! At your ripe old age you should by now be a seasoned climber, capable of expressing your feats with nuanced precision. Sigh, OK, I'll help you out, this once. Go do a climb you consider to be just barely a 5.9 -- call it a 5.9a. Then dump exactly 5 pounds of dry sand into your psychedelic climbing tights, and climb the route again. That's a 5.9b! Add 5 more pounds and you have 5.9c, etc. -- but here things get tricky, for a true 5.9d experience the sand has to... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Anduriel Tower : Arizona Flyways (5.11b/c)
By: Desicon When: Apr 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: WSnyder,do you have a bolt count for this route? Are the bolts sufficient for the climb, or are there any natural placements available along this line to supplement the fixed pro? Were you able to determine if the climb had a single crux section, or was the entire route a sustained 5.11? I've heard this line is easier for those who have a good deal of hand strength and a lot of upper body endurance -- did you likewise find it to be largely a series of pullups, or were you able to use your feet t... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline
By: Desicon When: Apr 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I am reading you correctly here, jbak, I think you make several good points: the original decision to climb does ultimately involve individual responsibility, and a certain amount of sound personal judgment. Those who have been climbing for some time soon realize just how subjective the assigned difficulties can be, and quickly come to understand the limitations of the guidebook ratings. But those new to the sport often have to learn this lesson through trial and error, sometimes through the... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline
By: Desicon When: Apr 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, even top-roping can lead to severe injuries, and lead climbing can, of course, be immensely more hazardous. Those climbers new to the area (or even locals making their first leads at The Ridgeline) should remember that the guidebooks are not infallible nor absolute just because they are in print.
It is very unfortunate that The Ridgeline has at times been written up so "imperfectly," and yet it still receives such heavy use by intermediate and beg... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Green Slabs : Rock Candy (5.6)
By: Desicon When: Mar 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do not like this climb, and I have a strong suspicion that it is dangerous for the unintitiated...
Rock Candy does have some fun and interesting moves (as Bobby Hanson points out) and my hat is off to anyone who nails this route onsight -- including the first ascensionists -- but think about this one carefully if you are a genuine 5.6 or 5.7 leader -- maybe top rope it first?
Calling Rock Candy a 5.6 has always bothered me, and I would NEVER put a beginning leader on this route. If you ar... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Sudden Impact (5.8+)
By: Desicon When: Mar 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ridgeline route #4: "Sudden Impact" (Fazio book rating 5.8+ with a note about a "hard start;" my rating is 5.6+ to 5.7+ for any of the three starts I found, with an actual 5.8+ crux at the 4th bolt where the line passes over the roof-swell.
I first led "Sudden Impact" back in 1994, and I remember thinking then that it was a 5.7+ to maybe 5.8- route. In these latter days of my approaching decrepitude, I still think it has no more than a 5.7+ start, but now I believe that the roo... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline
By: Desicon When: Mar 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ridgeline Ratings:
The routes on Ridgeline are both named and numbered in E. Fazio-Rhicard's "Squeezing the Lemmon II." The numerical sequence on Ridgeline runs west to east: #1 "Small Brown Mouse;" #2 "Sissy Boyz Eight;" #3 "Firezone;" #4 "Sudden Impact;" #5 "Never to be the Same;" #6 "Wind of Change;" #7 "Two Birds with One Stone;" #8 "Mogenhead;" #9 "Glowing ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Glowing In The Distance (5.9)
By: Desicon When: Nov 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Glowing in the Distance" is arguably the most eloquent climb on the Ridgeline. It would probably receive a four star rating if it were just another 20 - 30 feet long. The route presents several individual "problem areas" forcing the climber to concentrate almost all the way up; and it seems that there are almost always several different handhold/ foothold combinations that can be used to surmount each cruxy zone. This built-in variation keeps the route from becoming a bore even after ... more >>
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