Mountain Project : Desicon

Desicon demonstrating the presumed 5.6+ left-hand, stemming start on "Sudden Impact." The left thumb finds a secure undercling in the vertical crack on the far side of the dihedral.To do the

AZ : Mount Lemmon : ... : Sudden Impact (5.8+)

Mar 2, 2006

The "toy roof" of Toy Roof figures prominently in the middle foreground, while the climber has just clipped the second bolt.

AZ : Mount Lemmon : ... : Toy Roof (5.9+ R)

Nov 27, 2005


Contributed Comments
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Fleuger Chimney (5.8) By: Desicon When: Feb 21, 2008	view comment >>
Comments: LOL, I think the spelling is a bit off here, Robert Fleugher should be Robert Flaugher?
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon By: Desicon When: Jan 28, 2008	view comment >>
Comments: Eric, see my comments on the "Control Tower" photo, and more extensively on the route "Flight Delay."
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Don't Grab Here (5.10) By: Desicon When: Jan 28, 2008	view comment >>
Comments: This climb, "Flight Delay," if it is on the spire above Kessler Corner, in the Cherry Creek basin east of the highway, was initially done back sometime between 1989 and 1992 by Robert Flaugher, Adam Grad, Bill Clinch and Tom Weaver. As I recall it, the nasty, crumbly junk at the bottom can be avoided on the right for mounting moves. Or, taking great care, you can pick you way through the slabby stuff for a more direct start. This direct start was done "for fun" on top rope after the original FA.... more >>
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... By: Desicon When: Jan 28, 2008	view comment >>
Comments: Just found this development report, lol, "Forgotten Wall," well, not really forgotten, R. Flaugher just got too old and busted up to get out here after 1994. I've left some comments on this area under the "Flight Delay" notes. Great job of development, Eric!
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Photo By: Desicon When: Jan 28, 2008	view comment >>
Comments: Hmmm, looks familiar. Is this area upstream from Kessler's corner, in what I think is called the Cherry Creek canyon, first major canyon east of Bear canyon and the highway? If so, this area was "pioneered" back in 1989-1990 by Flaugher, Weaver, Grad and Clinch who did a number of ascents on the wall behind the spire, and worked up two routes to the top of the tower. I climbed there some longish time ago, 5.8 to 5.10 stuff as I recall. The bolts out there are OLD, so check them before depending ... more >>
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rupley Towers : Bop Til You Drop (5.10 R) By: Desicon When: Jan 27, 2008	view comment >>
Comments: A highly entertaining, three star, 5.10b climb that allows the intermediate leader a chance to practice some moderately run-out face moves, and then make a fun transition to a lie-back/ jam-pull over the swelling roll of the rock just before the end of the active climbing. I agree with Jerry, PG-13 or R as you choose -- a tumble from the lower face could jam your ankles somewhat severely towards your knees... You can continue this climb without much rope drag to the top of the tower. Jerry, I... more >>
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Year of the Dragon (5.10b) By: Desicon When: Oct 22, 2007	view comment >>
Comments: Yep, a bit "hairy" to mount the Dragon's Head, easy moves (5.5 will cover it) but, absolutely, do not let go until you are safely seated on the Dragon's Pate! I did this climb a number of years ago, on a dark (if not stormy)afternoon. In the shade the rock was cold, and the grippy-thin holds were hard on my deteriorating knuckles. But it impressed me as it maintained a general level of difficulty all the way up. I remember only one good rest stance, so the ascent gave me a real forearm pump, L... more >>
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Wind of Change (5.8) By: Desicon When: Jul 13, 2006	view comment >>
Comments: andy peter tretiakoff -- No, no! I took both Jerry's post and your's to be good natured kidding, and replied in like fashion. Climbers do tend to rib one another, and let's face it, my long-winded style of commentary leaves plenty of room for humour. When I get to the point where I classify a climb as a 5.7c8 (meaning, almost, but not quite a 5.7d, then I'll be truly certifiable! Hmmm, I wonder if it is possible to create a route description that prints out longer than the actual route... Yowl!
Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Mogenhead (5.8) By: Desicon When: Jul 13, 2006	view comment >>
Comments: Scott and Jerry: I have done this climb a number of times, and I've wondered myself if another bolt should be added simply because so many of the climbers here do not bother carrying any gear up with them. The smallest of the Lowe Tricams, pink cord, can be used if protection is desired, about three feet above B2, and there are several cracks that will take small nuts. About five years ago, a member of the First Ascent team explained that they thought the placement of a bolt between the curre... more >>

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