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Location: CO : Indoor Walls : Denver - Paradise Rock Gym
By: desbien When: Feb 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Keep up the good fight Bryan!
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Los Hermanos de la Weenie W... (5.11c)
By: desbien When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't blow the crux move. I took a big whipper moving between bolt three and four. Popped my ankle enough to ruin the weekend.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Foxy (5.11b)
By: desbien When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Try a heel hook instead of the butt smear. Traverse right and throw up the heel. Much more aesthetically pleasing. I thought the under the roof move was pretty delicate.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 4 : Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Kil... (5.12a)
By: desbien When: May 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route's been up for nine years, but it felt like some of those flakes were going to rip off. Otherwise really fun and I think the geek out (see above thread) about the traverse right after the undercling is well warranted. I still can't tell if that stuff is poison ivy or something else. The internet provides enough variations of the plant that anything can be identified as poison ivy....
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace
By: desbien When: May 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know if the river is crossable right now?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Earth Voyage (5.12a)
By: desbien When: May 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 kicked punted me after the crux. Deceptive route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: desbien When: May 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun- first 12a onsight- easier than p1 of Earth Voyage. Not having done much climbing in the area, I don't know what to call it. Either way you can move left of the crux and escape to an easier yet still neato 11c variation. I moved to the left, to anchors after the crux section. The rest of the climb may be fun, but it looked significantly easier and maybe a waste of time?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Hangman (5.12b)
By: desbien When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun and powerful. Neat gaston at the crux.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Crystal Tower : Cornered Again (5.11a)
By: desbien When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't like this route. I kept finding myself trying to take the more direct line in two distinct spots; once left on the sidepull/undercling, quartz formation and then again directly above that. Bail route for 11a. Route doesn't flow well.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Punishment For Shoplifting (5.10d)
By: desbien When: Apr 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of deciphering. Easy to get pumped out on the not so obvious finish. Not nearly as fun as reefer madness down the slope or schwing salute.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : The Reward aka Convicted Fe... (5.12b)
By: desbien When: Apr 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really great route. Now that I finally sent it I don't have to guard my opinion in order to keep attention off it.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House
By: desbien When: Feb 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: NE1 know if this area stays clear of snow etc. during the winter?
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork : Huecos Rancheros (5.12c)
By: desbien When: Dec 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this area bigger then documented here? Would zion be worth the haul for a sport climber?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Wet Dream (5.12a)
By: desbien When: Dec 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice line. I kept wanting to fight going left at the slab, but just give in. The rest is endurance. Technique wise, I don't think the cux is up high, maybe a pump crux.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Litlle Kitten (5.10c)
By: desbien When: Nov 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't like this route.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Learning to Crawl (5.10a/b)
By: desbien When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like this line a lot.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Job Security (5.11)
By: desbien When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, committing to move left at the crux.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Burning Chrome (5.11d)
By: desbien When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Straight up is a hard move. This route is definitely in the 11s.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Wind Machine (5.11c/d)
By: desbien When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun. sort of a two move wonder. Heel hook is fun.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Protege (5.11d)
By: desbien When: Nov 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. 11d.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Starting Blocks (5.12a)
By: desbien When: Oct 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome...dude.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Begin Again (5.12a)
By: desbien When: Oct 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route deserves some more starage. The lower crux is balancy and really smooth. The upper crux put me deep in the roof with my leg staddling (not touching) the corner. I felt one sharp hold on the corner. Is that the detracting feature? If so, then I don't think it's that bad. Maybe I'm outta whack on the crux?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Rock Nazi (5.11b)
By: desbien When: Oct 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route. Long with good rests. Tough on sight but everything is there. Kicked off some crap, thankfully I was high enough that my belayer had time to move.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Flatus (5.11b) : Photo
By: desbien When: Aug 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like he's going for a flip if he falls
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : No Direction Home (5.11)
By: desbien When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route! Best I've done at Sherwood. Really fun movement into the roof section.
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