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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: Derek Newman When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was pouring rain when we started. My friend and I are beginning on trad routes so we are very scared when it comes to climbs like these. We found out our car got robbed after we finished. And, despite all of these setbacks, I still had loads of fun. This climb is so beautiful.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Tsunami (5.10b)
By: Derek Newman When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is slightly awkward in the beginning. You need three to four small quad cams for the first quarter of the climb, which is possibly a 5.8; you can do the first three bolts of the 5.9 climb right next to it, but I recommend doing the route the setters intended on doing because there is a really fun undercling move. Prepare to have a lot of fun once you hit the first bolt. I believe the reason this climb was set is because there is a gratuitous amount of exposure once you go ov... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Sweet and Low (5.5)
By: Derek Newman When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I totally know the girl that set this route- HUH!!!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Satan's Corner (5.8)
By: Derek Newman When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this today; it was my first multi-pitch/lead/trad climb and it was very humbling. My friend and I messed up on our protection so many times we decided to do it twice to prove to ourselves that we can protect well. We climbed well the first time but protected poor and climbed poor the second time but protected better. I felt that the crux is on the second pitch about twenty feet up, and the crux feels a lot more difficult than a 5.8 to me. But, this was very psychologically te... more >>
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Tribal Boundaries (5.10a)
By: Derek Newman When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is now rated a 5.10 B.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Tribal Boundaries (5.10a)
By: Derek Newman When: Aug 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I absolutely love this climb; it was my favorite climb I've done in the City- though, I've only been there once. I was so intimidated when I saw it. The climb itself is really technical and requires a large amount of balancing. I fell once on the crux (past the fourth bolt I believe) because I went too far right.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : The Kind (5.10a)
By: Derek Newman When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of my favorite climbs. I love the consistency in difficulty and the broad range of technique. The lie-back in the beginning is solid, the middle is really thin and requires thorough balancing, and the ending consists of rocking jugs and powerful moves. I can't help but smile for the rest of the day after I have climbed this route.
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