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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,765
Total Points: 185
Last Year: 28
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 551 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 132 | Posts 188 | Stars 138 | Ratings 87
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Bilateral symmetry

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

VT : Bolton Area : ... : Lower Tier

Jul 21, 2013

Grapes of Wrath

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (4)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jul 10, 2010

Crimp Chimp

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 (7)

Trad, 1 pitch, 160'

VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag

Jun 13, 2010

Ragtime

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 (2)

Trad, 3 pitches, 225'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 10, 2010

La Spirale

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 85'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 9, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The King Wall : The Prince (5.7)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: This is a very nice route, with excellent face climbing, a gorgeous if tragically short finger crack, and great position and views. The last pitch has some nice low angle face climbing on its first half before deteriorating into less clean and interesting terrain for the second half. Trending up and left yields the cleanest line. Still, it's worth doing to top out on this very cool cliff.

A few things to be aware of, however. First, the fixed gear and anchors have seen better days and appear ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Who's Your Daddy (5.12c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: I pulled off the starting right side pull / thumb catch the other day. It had been loose for a while, and came off in my hand as I moved past it! Fortunately the route goes just fine without it. The first few moves are a bit more difficult, but the second clip now has a somewhat better edge for a foot. No change in grade, and still a great route.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 4, 2014

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Comments: No more bolts in my opinion! It's a little spicy as is (which is part of the appeal), but totally reasonable. It's such a great route as is. No need for more. 10+ seems fair, and consistent with other Poko face pitches.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Alias Wall : Carolina In My Mind (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Huh. Either we all missed something or you guys are climbing waaaay harder than you think! I'll go back and have another look for sure.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Alias Wall : Carolina In My Mind (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: No worries! Maybe Trav, Seth, Derrek and I just missed something. Stranger things have happened!


Location: VT : Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 08 - Elephant's Head Area : Elephant's head gully (WI3-)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Belaying at the bolts as mentioned in the description above is a terrible idea. The bolted belay, while at a very comfortable ledge, is squarely in the crosshairs of ice fall from a leader on P2. Ice comes zooming down the slab, launches off the initial steep step, and frequently peppers the stance. A much safer alternative is to belay from screws, either a bit lower and the far left side of the gully, or a bit higher. Either option is far more sheltered from ice fall, and both feature comfortab... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Upper Tier - Right End : Mal Bouche (5.12-)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Where are these "hard 5.11 moves" of which you speak??? Not between the ground and the anchor, that's for sure!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Alias Wall : Carolina In My Mind (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: We had a similar experience. The moves up to the crux bulge were pleasant face climbing, but neither my partner or I could pull the bulge, which is to put it mildly, rather unusual at the reported grade. We also scoped it on rappel, and there didn't appear to be anything we were missing. There is an obvious rock scar below and left of the bolt on the bulge which had us wondering if something has broken. If not, I predict the consensus grade may creep upwards a bit...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : Alias Wall : Arętenophobia (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: A very nice pitch! The easy runout at the top could be protected with a yellow Mastercam or a yellow Camalot if desired. The climbing is maybe 5.5 in this section so I wouldn't be overly concerned if you don't have a rack with you.

While the route itself is thoughtfully bolted, the anchor had only two quick- links (as of 8.10) and their orientation made the pull on rappel a real rope twister. We left two carabiners there to reorient the rope and eliminate this problem. They are not booty!

Th... more >>


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Requim for a Dreamer (5.8)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Your description of a tall left facing corner high on the right side of the cliff sounds like the final pitch of what is now Marshfield Corners. It's a superb pitch for sure.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: Hey Jim,

Good point. I hadn't considered self-selection bias. I tend to offer an opinion on the grades of all routes I comment on, whether I agree or disagree with the one originally assigned. I was working under the assumption that others did the same, but as you rightly point out, there's no real basis for such an assumption. I stand corrected!

Cheers,

Derek


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: I agree with Paul's comment above. The cruxes are quite reasonably protected, but there are certainly numerous "don't fall" moments on easier (.9+ sounds about right) terrain. There are also numerous pins in varying states of decay and they are frequently impossible to back up. How good are they? No way to tell, so best not to fall on them. There are a couple of spots where a blown pin would have very serious consequences. As with all Cannon routes, questionable rock abounds as well. Particularl... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 18, 2014

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Comments: Interesting, Jon. I actually feel like posters should initially assign whatever grade they feel appropriate and then let the consensus evolve. However wide a net guidebook authors cast (and Jim and Jeremy definitely worked hard at this)to assign grades, routes change, opinions vary, and so on. I think a forum like this one has the potential to draw from a wider cross section of the community and is ideally suited to consensus building. Of course this theory only holds up if sufficient numbers of... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Hurricane Crag : Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Just corresponded with Richard Parker. Here's what he had to say:

"Yes, Bara Bara or Quad…a great route. Hard to remember what gear went where in those days but I can say that we would have placed a pin or two without any qualms if it was required to make a pitch R as opposed to X. Seems like the knife blade rings a bell and your idea makes perfect sense to me, although I simply do not recall…we were in that transition from pins to stoppers and hexes. Geoff and I both learned first with pin... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Cooney-Norton (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: lol, Nick. Further confirmation that you and I have very different tastes in routes. This thing is superb in my opinion. To each their own!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Gamesmanship (5.8+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: Public Service Announcement:

As of 6/10/14, there are two softball sized but square loose rocks 2/3s of the way up the second pitch. They are almost completely detached, and one is covered with chalk. Both are directly in the line of ascent, and could even conceivably be dislodged by rope movement. I wasn't able to trundle them for fear of hitting others in the area at the time, and so had to settle for avoiding them and placing gear to keep the rope away from them. If the area is clear, they c... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Lost Chance aka The Natural... (5.10)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: To avoid confusion, a point of clarification might be in order: The route described here is often referred to as The Natural, though as I understand it that may not be the name given by the FA team. It is useful however, since there is a full length route over on the slabs called Last Chance.


Location: VT : Marshfield Ledge : Just for Goobs (5.7+ PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Hey Nate,

Is this route not closed for Peregrine nesting at the moment?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Hey Delam-

Your comment is unusual in the endless bolting debate: A well reasoned perspective offered without vitriol or drama. Thanks for that. While I disagree, I do appreciate your thoughtful perspective.

With that said, the Chockstone anchor comparison is an apples and oranges comparison in my opinion. There is no viable alternative on that ledge anymore. There is a perfectly reasonable one atop the Rose, and it doesn't necessitate any damage to a tree. There's a small tree growing directl... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West Bolton : North End : The Rose (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Hopefully someone will finish the job. The sooner the better, in my opinion.


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