Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Derek Doucet

Point Rank: # 3,249
Total Points: 204
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 2
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Derek Doucet been climbing?










Contributions


All 620 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 151 | Posts 210 | Stars 158 | Ratings 95
Page 1 of 25.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Bilateral symmetry

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

VT : Bolton Area : ... : Lower Tier

Jul 21, 2013

Grapes of Wrath

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (5)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jul 10, 2010

Crimp Chimp

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 (10)

Trad, 1 pitch, 160'

VT : Bolton Area : ... : 82 Main Wall

Jun 13, 2010

Ragtime

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 (2)

Trad, 3 pitches, 225'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 10, 2010

La Spirale

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 85'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 9, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Smear Campaign (5.10+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I'll echo Jim and Jon. MIGHTY stout for .10b, or .10-anything for that matter. Really cool route, though.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Steep Wall : Solarium (5.12b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A great pitch, though calling it a crack climb is a stretch. There are certainly some critical jams required but most of the route is face climbing, some of which is very steep. The crux is bolted, though there is plenty of challenging gear-protected climbing as well. The start involves climbing an awkward crack and flair to reach a high bolt. This section presents you with a choice: Get gear in high enough to be worth a damn and fill up a useful jam, or make committing moves past the jam lookin... more >>


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A single 60m is perfect at the South Wall. There are numerous fixed anchors at sub-30m intervals in numerous locations: The top of Return to Forever down to the top of Figures on a Seascape and then down Old Town, another descent just left of Gunklandia, and others as well.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South... : Connecticut Crack (5.11a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Not really, no. Airation is quite a bit steeper and more sustained, but has better locks. Ct. Cracks is a just a couple of smeary insecure moves at the crux with easier (but quality) climbing above and below.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Sounds like a great plan, Greg. Thank you!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Booty Wall Area : Professor Booty (5.11+)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A proud onsite indeed. Not that I'd know. Relentless and technical power stemming. 4 stars despite some occasionally flaky rock.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain : The Main Cliff
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the update, Chris. Also thanks for the flurry of route development at Bone and elsewhere. I'm psyched to check out your new creations. Knowing first hand the amount of work involved, I sincerely appreciate your efforts.


Location: VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05W - Easy Gully Area : Grand Confusion (WI3)
By: Derek Doucet When: Mar 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It's also easy to walk off climber's left in to Easy Gully.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : October Wall : Han Shot First (5.10b/c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Dec 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Surprisingly good little pitch. It doesn't look like much from below, but climbs quite well. A nice find!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : October Wall : Third Wave (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Dec 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Really cool pitch with great rock and a very fun crux sequence. I'd give it three stars if it had an independent anchor below the 3rd class slab. It's not that I mind rambling up the slab to the other anchor, but it makes things hard on the rope for TRing or pulling. Anyway, a quality pitch! Perhaps uncharacteristically soft for the grade?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Schoolhouse/Main Quarry : Anything For An A (5.7+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Feel free to add a bolt at the top if desired. There was a reason we didn't place an additional one there, but it's been a long time and I honestly don't recall why. In any case I have no objection to another if it's done well.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Sunburst Arete (5.8 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Outstanding climbing, and certainly stout in the grade. Lots of ledge fall potential on P1 as others have mentioned. The P2 crack is steep and sustained, and climbing straight through the small overhang near the top rather than stepping left around it is feasible and fun, if harder than 5.8.

The cracks at the first belay have lots of hollow rock, and building a solid anchor requires some care, though it can be done.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Pandemonium (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yup. That's what I'll do next time for sure, Jim. Just thought I'd give the full scoop on the rest of the route for those like me who prefer to do the complete route at least once. And agreed about P3. It's a good one.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Pandemonium (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: P3 has some very good, steep climbing in a spectacular position. I'd call it a worthy 3-star pitch if it were right off the ground. Now about the rest of the route...

There are numerous options for P1, including the one listed in the book and Group Therapy, all ending at the Group Therapy anchor, and all perfectly fine as approaches to the climbing above.

P2 is junk, though with some aggressive cleaning of the crack could actually be OK. This would require the removal of copious amounts of ve... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Agent Orange (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great pitch, however the cold shut on the bolt protecting the upper boulder problem is total junk. The weld is entirely broken through. It's possible to back it up with some so-so gear (small cams IIRC) a bit down and right of the shut. While this wouldn't keep you from bouncing the slab if the cold shut blew, it just might stop a pretty big and ugly tumble. The steep hanging corner at the top is a blast.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I don't know exactly what it is. It looked like a half-assed, half driven glue-in to me...


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: So bizarre, huh? The pitch above this is full of modern bolts in decent condition, and then there's this junk. This is the first "bolt" I've ever tied off short...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Hidden Ledge : Rancid Meat (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hi Chris. Thanks for another cool route! I'm so psyched someone else is so psyched to do route development!

I guess I could go either way on adding an additional anchor. My inclination is that it's probably best to just belay from the existing one and place a piece to keep the rope out from behind the leader's leg. My reasoning is that if you go much farther left, you're standing in a really cool and probably quite fragile little moss and sapling garden on the ledge. It would be a shame to tram... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Hidden Ledge : Rancid Meat (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A fun pitch that will get better with some traffic to clean it up, as it's currently pretty dirty, especially on the easier upper arĂȘte section. Like all new Bolton routes, it's still shedding holds as well. A helmet for the belayer at least seems like a very good idea.

I don't recommend belaying from the bolted anchor just right of the base of the route. Doing so sets up a potentially problematic tripping hazard with the rope should you pop getting to the second bolt. If you caught your leg ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Freedom Flight (5.10b PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Totally agree, Jim. What a great route. I just hope that poison ivy bush on the traverse isn't still there. It looked might healthy last time I climbed that pitch (a few years ago now), and it was essentially impossible to keep the rope out of it...


Page 1 of 25.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!