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Member Since: Apr 26, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Derek Doucet

Point Rank: # 3,204
Total Points: 199
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Derek Doucet been climbing?










Contributions


All 607 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 146 | Posts 209 | Stars 154 | Ratings 92
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Bilateral symmetry

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

VT : Bolton Area : ... : Lower Tier

Jul 21, 2013

Grapes of Wrath

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (4)

Trad, 1 pitch, 90'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jul 10, 2010

Crimp Chimp

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 (10)

Trad, 1 pitch, 160'

VT : Bolton Area : ... : 82 Main Wall

Jun 13, 2010

Ragtime

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 (2)

Trad, 3 pitches, 225'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 10, 2010

La Spirale

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 85'

NY : Adirondacks : ... : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face

Jun 9, 2010

Contributed Comments

 

Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Booty Wall Area : Professor Booty (5.11+)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: A proud onsite indeed. Not that I'd know. Relentless and technical power stemming. 4 stars despite some occasionally flaky rock.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain : The Main Cliff
By: Derek Doucet When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the update, Chris. Also thanks for the flurry of route development at Bone and elsewhere. I'm psyched to check out your new creations. Knowing first hand the amount of work involved, I sincerely appreciate your efforts.


Location: VT : * Vermont Ice Climbing : Smugglers Notch Ice climbin... : 05W - Easy Gully Area : Grand Confusion (WI3)
By: Derek Doucet When: Mar 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It's also easy to walk off climber's left in to Easy Gully.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : October Wall : Han Shot First (5.10b/c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Dec 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Surprisingly good little pitch. It doesn't look like much from below, but climbs quite well. A nice find!


Location: VT : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : October Wall : Third Wave (5.10a)
By: Derek Doucet When: Dec 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Really cool pitch with great rock and a very fun crux sequence. I'd give it three stars if it had an independent anchor below the 3rd class slab. It's not that I mind rambling up the slab to the other anchor, but it makes things hard on the rope for TRing or pulling. Anyway, a quality pitch! Perhaps uncharacteristically soft for the grade?


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Schoolhouse/Main Quarry : Anything For An A (5.7+)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Feel free to add a bolt at the top if desired. There was a reason we didn't place an additional one there, but it's been a long time and I honestly don't recall why. In any case I have no objection to another if it's done well.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Sunburst Arete (5.8 PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Outstanding climbing, and certainly stout in the grade. Lots of ledge fall potential on P1 as others have mentioned. The P2 crack is steep and sustained, and climbing straight through the small overhang near the top rather than stepping left around it is feasible and fun, if harder than 5.8.

The cracks at the first belay have lots of hollow rock, and building a solid anchor requires some care, though it can be done.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Pandemonium (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Yup. That's what I'll do next time for sure, Jim. Just thought I'd give the full scoop on the rest of the route for those like me who prefer to do the complete route at least once. And agreed about P3. It's a good one.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Pandemonium (5.10b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: P3 has some very good, steep climbing in a spectacular position. I'd call it a worthy 3-star pitch if it were right off the ground. Now about the rest of the route...

There are numerous options for P1, including the one listed in the book and Group Therapy, all ending at the Group Therapy anchor, and all perfectly fine as approaches to the climbing above.

P2 is junk, though with some aggressive cleaning of the crack could actually be OK. This would require the removal of copious amounts of ve... more >>


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Agent Orange (5.11b)
By: Derek Doucet When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: This is a great pitch, however the cold shut on the bolt protecting the upper boulder problem is total junk. The weld is entirely broken through. It's possible to back it up with some so-so gear (small cams IIRC) a bit down and right of the shut. While this wouldn't keep you from bouncing the slab if the cold shut blew, it just might stop a pretty big and ugly tumble. The steep hanging corner at the top is a blast.


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: I don't know exactly what it is. It looked like a half-assed, half driven glue-in to me...


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Labyrinth Wall Direct (5.11) : Photo
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: So bizarre, huh? The pitch above this is full of modern bolts in decent condition, and then there's this junk. This is the first "bolt" I've ever tied off short...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Hidden Ledge : Rancid Meat (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Hi Chris. Thanks for another cool route! I'm so psyched someone else is so psyched to do route development!

I guess I could go either way on adding an additional anchor. My inclination is that it's probably best to just belay from the existing one and place a piece to keep the rope out from behind the leader's leg. My reasoning is that if you go much farther left, you're standing in a really cool and probably quite fragile little moss and sapling garden on the ledge. It would be a shame to tram... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Hidden Ledge : Rancid Meat (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: A fun pitch that will get better with some traffic to clean it up, as it's currently pretty dirty, especially on the easier upper arĂȘte section. Like all new Bolton routes, it's still shedding holds as well. A helmet for the belayer at least seems like a very good idea.

I don't recommend belaying from the bolted anchor just right of the base of the route. Doing so sets up a potentially problematic tripping hazard with the rope should you pop getting to the second bolt. If you caught your leg ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Freedom Flight (5.10b PG13)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Totally agree, Jim. What a great route. I just hope that poison ivy bush on the traverse isn't still there. It looked might healthy last time I climbed that pitch (a few years ago now), and it was essentially impossible to keep the rope out of it...


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Appalling Travesty (5.9+)
By: Derek Doucet When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the effort, Greg.

The crux bolts on Progress and Who's Your Daddy should be replaced at some point as well. Both protect probable ground falls and are the original hardware. With the dramatic increase in traffic these routes are seeing these days, glue-ins are probably the way to go. Not suggesting you need to do the deed, by the way, just making an observation.

Once again, thanks for taking the initiative.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The King Wall : The Prince (5.7)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 14, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This is a very nice route, with excellent face climbing, a gorgeous if tragically short finger crack, and great position and views. The last pitch has some nice low angle face climbing on its first half before deteriorating into less clean and interesting terrain for the second half. Trending up and left yields the cleanest line. Still, it's worth doing to top out on this very cool cliff.

A few things to be aware of, however. First, the fixed gear and anchors have seen better days and appear ... more >>


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Carcass Crag : Who's Your Daddy (5.12c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I pulled off the starting right side pull / thumb catch the other day. It had been loose for a while, and came off in my hand as I moved past it! Fortunately the route goes just fine without it. The first few moves are a bit more difficult, but the second clip now has a somewhat better edge for a foot. No change in grade, and still a great route.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Derek Doucet When: Oct 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No more bolts in my opinion! It's a little spicy as is (which is part of the appeal), but totally reasonable. It's such a great route as is. No need for more. 10+ seems fair, and consistent with other Poko face pitches.


Location: VT : Bolton Area : Upper West : Alias Wall : Carolina In My Mind (5.10d)
By: Derek Doucet When: Sep 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Huh. Either we all missed something or you guys are climbing waaaay harder than you think! I'll go back and have another look for sure.


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